I went on the Route 66 run, more accurately I went on 1/4 of the Route 66 run. My car is a Subi powered 914, it was having problems at wide open throttle and was down on power. I had put a Walbro pump from Speedway Motors on it the previous week. Turns out the pump was a Chinese knock off, and was degrading and performance and output as I was driving at home. I decided to go to an intake solution, so I bought one of the new tanks from auto Atlanta and 18th Inc. in-tank Walbro unit. Got the tank earlier this week, has anyone had a problem with the fuel sender hitting the swirl pot edge? I may have to make a modification.

Another area I’m going to tackle is the alignment. The car is very twitchy at all speeds, but very noticeable as you creep into triple digits. Hoping somebody might have alignment specs, or at least suggestions. I am running GT flares with white tires. 225-17s in the front, 255i17s in the rear.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ed

Hi Ed. Twitchy can be toe out. That’s easy enough to check with a tape measure and a helper. You should have a 1/16th or so toe-in.

Hi Michael
I am assuming that is it, I had it aligned at a race shop, it almost feels like, it is set up to Auto-X

Alignment for lively at legal speeds (or best performance on track) and stability at tipple digits would be totally different. Have to decide where you spend most of your time

john

Ed, it did seem like the turn in was quicker than it should be, even at the slower speeds when I was driving. It would also explain the "greasy" feeling we encountered in the 3 digit speeds in the canyons. Glad you found the power loss issue...it sure seemed like it could be the loose soldered connections you were thinking could be the reason. I've also got an in-tank pump but it's a Subaru and I had to tweak my float rod to the side just a bit to clear the swirl pot and now it moves freely. Good luck with your mods!

I will make sure the tow is set correctly, it is getting 930 tie rod ends also. I am still going to clean the wiring up, it’ll eliminate future issues. Next time you drive it the Quaife LSD will be installed, it’ll have Boxster brakes, and a lot more horsepower. Hopefully at the Red Rocks.

[quote name='mgp4591' post='3000207' date='May 6 2022, 11:07 PM']
[quote name='Mowog4' post='3000203' date='May 6 2022, 10:48 PM']
[quote name='michael7810' post='3000188' date='May 6 2022, 08:17 PM']
Hi Ed. Twitchy can be toe out. That’s easy enough to check with a tape measure and a helper. You should have a 1/16th or so toe-in.
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Hi Michael
I am assuming that is it, I had it aligned at a race shop, it almost feels like, it is set up to Auto-X
[/quote]
Ed, it did seem like the turn in was quicker than it should be, even at the slower speeds when I was driving. It would also explain the "greasy" feeling we encountered in the 3 digit speeds in the canyons. Glad you found the power loss issue...it sure seemed like it could be the loose soldered connections you were thinking could be the reason. I've also got an in-tank pump but it's a Subaru and I had to tweak my float rod to the side just a bit to clear the swirl pot and now it moves freely. Good luck with your mods!

The turbo tie rod ends really eliminate any slop in the steering gear and the response is immediate. That's a great place to start. Also, Keith was talking with me about corner balancing...if it hasn't been done, a great alignment won't be as effective on the road.

Correct, toe out is great for auto-crossing with great turn in. Not so good for track high speed stability. Make sure you also have rear toe in...don't want toe out in the rear. Best, Mark