The one job I have not done yet. The car is running perfectly, quiet, smooth, lots of power, but it hasn't been done since I bought it last year and the previous owner passed away back in 2017 (sat for years). There was all kinds of strange stuff from the interim when the family was trying to get it going again to sell so I seriously doubt they did anything like set the lash.

I have probably put 3000 miles on it. Some autocross, mostly just twisties in the hills and mountains. It's running so well, and the valve covers are not leaking... Should I check it? I have the extra thick gaskets from 914rubber sitting there waiting.

yes

3000 miles is when I check mine
especially if it hasn't been done since the previous owner

too tight.. doesn't make noise but is worse than a noisey too loose situation

A very wise old VW mechanic once said "no man is too rich to not adjust his own valves..."
There are plenty of threads on here how to do it. Always 'cold'.

Somewhat like getting your annual physical or colonoscopy, have your blood drawn, ...... assuming all is good you are good to go. OR find something out and correct it. Same with your home, it's all maintenance.

The past two mornings I have gone out and stared at it but just couldn't get myself up to do it.

I have been reading all the different tips and tricks posts but I haven't seen a great "here is the best way to get to the hard to reach cylinders. One guy suggested pulling off the fresh air pipes.

Is that good to do? Sounds like a pain. Taking off the rear wheels looks smart.

I think colonoscopy describes about how excited I am about doing this.

get a cheap 10$ remote starter switch from your flaps...
helps a lot since you won't have to get out from under the car repeatedly

also use the captn' Krusty method
way quicker...

I don't pull any tin off
its possible to access ... just tight.


brant

Does anyone get excited for having a colonoscopy?? probably someone out there, and they are probably way out there.

When things are well and it sounds as they are, we can easily get lazy and defer to another day. I have not seen the Cap'n method, hopefully someone will post the thread

Capt'n Krusty

Yes, just read that again but it doesn't really mention any tips or tricks on getting at the 2 and 4 cylinders for example. Or am I just over planning this?

Don’t know that there is any trick
You can get your arm in from the back. And reach everything
I bought a short 14mm box open which helped a little compared to a standard 14mm

Don't be intimidated by doing this and don't put it off. I've been doing it for years on my VW's so the first time I did it on a 914 was not that different, but I do remember that it was a bit confusing the first time it did it on a Bug. After that it was pretty easy. Those were the days before YouTube videos so now you'll have an advantage I didn't have. It's tight on a 914, but better that than having tight valves. They do need to be checked and adjusted regularly and you can't just ignore them or rely on how they sound. Just take your time, and you'll find you'll get the hang of it. I like Krusty's method, but as an alternative you can simply see which valve is moving on one side of the engine then adjust that valve on the opposite side of the engine. So, for example, if a valve on cylinder #2 is moving you can adjust the corresponding valve on cylinder #4. That's how I was taught to do it by the Porsche mechanic I worked with for a few months. Other methods work fine as well, but I like not having to get out from under the car every time. I helps a lot to get it up in the air, but make sure it is FIRMLY supported and the front wheels are chocked. I take the rear tires off and make sure I have a really good light source. Have a beer afterward, but not before

I raise the rear so the wheels are off the ground and I can fit my large body under the car.
I take 1 wheel off, the side that will shine the most light under the car, the other wheel I remove the pin for the cable to the e brake at the wheel, that wheel I use to rotate the engine from under the car, after pulling the hand brake lever, I usually set the car in 3rd gear.
The non driven wheel must be immobilized, unless you have a LSD, or the opposite wheel will spin.
If 3rd is to difficult, it really shouldn’t be, go to 4th more revs on the wheel to turn the engine.
From here it’s the Cap’s method all the way.

Sounds good. Maybe tomorrow morning I will have the courage.

Figured if I put the car up tonight I would be less likely to chicken out tomorrow. Really looks tight in there. I also don't trust my jackstands so I have another floor jack on the other side paired with the other jackstand.
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Pull out your spark plugs. You want them out so you can spin the motor easier.

Put a block or a ramp or something under one wheel. Leave the other wheel free standing. Put the car in 5th gear. You can now turn the motor by spinning the raised wheel.

It’s tight under the car, but there are only 2 valves that I usually have to think about before getting them. And it’s always just remembering where my arm needs to go to get to them. When I remember that, they are easy to reach.

Zach

I did mine and it wasn’t bad. On the front cylinders I had to sneak up on them with the shim from the side. I had a long and short screw driver based on the obstructions I needed to clear… basically the handle would be in a way that I couldn’t get my hand on it. For tightening the nut, with a good grip on the screw driver, I could get it tight enough with a box end wrench that final torque with a torque wrench didn’t change the settings.

Only had three valves that were too tight and I could tell it was from a poor adjustment from the shop the PO used.

Also, not to contradict Zach, but I didn’t pull the plugs. I just put a clamp on one wheel disc so it wouldn’t rotate and spun the other with the car in fifth.

For me this was not difficult but is was 40 years ago. On the ground on my back


Best Bob B

Next time your engine is out (wait, "next time"? lol) install chromoly pushrods. Zero lash makes life much easier to adjust.

Do these pushrods look "normal"?
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Look to be standard aluminum rods.

Steel would have press fit ends , and would be magnetic.

Zach

Great.
Full speed ahead I guess.

I'm glad you posted this @emerygt350 - i'm in the same boat. I know I need to just check and adjust, have an EZCarLift, watched all the videos, read all the threads and I think i'm out of excuses....I just don't want to hurt anything, create a problem where there isn't one or just generally screw it up.

Flaca, just remember that the manual says the shim should slide in easily.
So, the art here is making sure you have the shim in straight so you’re not inducing drag by inserting at an angle. This is the part to take your time on and measure several times. Even so, it’s not a hard task and pretty rewarding.

both of you "got this"
its not too bad
you are both more than capable.

brant

Exhaust #1 .006 moved to 8
Intake #1 .005ish moved to 6
Intake #2 .005ish moved to 6
Exhaust #2 .008 left it.

Exhaust #3 .008 nicely so.
Intake #3 .006 maybe + .0003
Intake #4 .004 moved to .006
Exhaust #4 .008 nice

So it looked pretty good besides 4s intake.

Overall, 1 star, could not recommend. So much fiddly work. Something I would gladly pay someone else to do if I had anyone I trusted to do it.

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I always remove some of the heater tin components that get in the way. Makes the job a whole lot easier.

Ansbacher

LOL you’re a weird dude emery, but you’re my brand of weird!

Glad you got it done
Also good for the car as your initial numbers show it was needed badly

Nice work @emerygt350 - I guess I'm up. won't be until i get back to it in July sometime but this is encouraging.

If you do it every 5k and the engine is running perfectly do you expect to find it pretty much unchanged? Can't remember the interval from the owners manual. Every 2 oil changes? 8k?

I think 5K is too long actually
I usually do every oil change at 3K

good to keep a log of what you find.
One getting tighter can also mean the valve seat is dropping some
so for example if you keep your notes... and always one valve is out of adjustment each time.... that can be a warning sign about the valve seat on that valve.

too tight burns the valves... so it is good you loosened all of the ones you found too tight.

from one adjustment to the next.... I always find some that have changed slightly even with my 3k service interval

it hard to say if its the user, or the motor... as technique and consistent technique to keep the feeler gauge flat can effect the reading on tight and loose.

I'm always afraid after adjusting for correct clearance that I've got the nut that locks the adjusters in place either too night or too loose. No room to get a torque wrench in there. What's the school of thought on how much to tighten them?

So overall, not too far out of spec. The key words are 'anyone I trusted to do it'. Not only that, but figure a day of time. Once you drive it somewhere to have the work done, the car needs to sit until it is completely cooled down. Too many places tried putting fans on them and adjusted when only 'warm'. Caused tight valve clearances every time. It gets easier with time...

I snugged them, you can't get much torque on them due to the area constraints. Kind of just matched the feel of what they had.

And truthfully, getting the car up was probably the biggest pain.