When I swapped in a later suspension on my 1966 912 I think I did it piece by piece as opposed to building it up as a unit off the car and then offering it up.

Any thoughts or coaching on if that’s easier or if I should build it as a unit and then install it?

Thanks!

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I nearly always end up working alone and found it easier to install the struts after the cross member was in. If you have a buddy or two there to help guide the struts into position, maybe easier to do it assembled.
PS. Wanna sell the Bimmer?

Good morning and thanks for the response, that would certainly make getting some of the more fiddly to access bolts easier, I’m leaning that way because it makes everything easier to manipulate because it’s less weight.

That’s the 1974 2002 TII that I rebuilt, sun faded Nevada car but extremely solid and mechanically it’s essentially new with the addition of a five speed box. Let me drive the damn thing a little bit first!

How deep are you going? Dampeners, turbo tie rods, ball joints, does the rack warrant swapping out?, control arm bushings? Hell, might as well renew the steering column. Rubber brake lines too. Then project creep rears it's ugly head, but gotta do it.

Hey! Hope y’all are doing well up there.

She’s getting fresh dampers, rebuilt front brakes, Bruce Stone did a really nice job refurbishing the brake rotors and strut housing, new brake lines, bushings are fresh and turbo tie rods are going in. 911 under the body swaybar of course.

I’ve driven this car Enough to judge the steering rack good so I’m leaving it. It’s a pretty low mile car and despite having some metal work needs it otherwise been pretty easy to work on.

I’ve done it both ways. When I did it as a single assembly, I sat it on my lift table, jacked it up. Secured the struts to the strut towers then bolted the rest in place. It was pretty easy, even for me.

From the perspective of removing all in one piece it works pretty slick if the car is on a lift. I am Old And In The Way, so lifting the whole thing is a big challenge. I lowered the car till the suspension rested on a rolling table, pulled the nuts and bolts and raised the car away. I think it would more or less work in reverse.
The great thing about the whole shebang approach is you get to see the whole thing in all the new paint splendor as a perfect unit. Good luck no matter what your approach.

Now would be a good time to add the sway bar link brackets on the A arms. No one ever regrets adding a front sway bar to a 914.

Good morning, thanks for all of the responses and ideas.

This year 911 set up used an under the body sway bar, which I have ready to go on, so will go that route.

Have you all had luck re-using the taper pin that located the ball joint? Trying pulling that off the 914 suspension that I removed or pick up a new pin? I believe they are the same but need to double check PET.

Thanks!

Tdskip, I did mine piece by piece, was so easy. It also lets you address little items as you go. Best, Mark

And as simple as the 914 suspension is...it still is a little overwhelming. This is my good friend Carl that came to help me in the middle of a Wisconsin winter, all the way from Florida. Mark Click to view attachment

I'm planning to install mine upside-down on the rotisserie as mostly one unit (no brake items installed).. not everyone's gonna have that situation though... then again not everyone has a lift table either. Otherwise, I'd do it piece by piece personally. good luck.


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I'm not there yet. Still need struts and mono balls. Looks like a couple of months for me. I'm trying to talk Marvin Shaw into Nitrogen gas shocks but then I want to change the brakes. I have some Brembo calipers but they are for vented rotors and I 'm looking to reduce the rotating mass. This is for an A/X only so the brakes are never going to get hot. The Bermbos have been on the car before but they over powered the tears and the balance was wrong so I took them off the car. The Bermbos are aluminum as are all the suspension pieces. I have an adjustable proportioning valve so I believe it can be dialed in. When I was first building the car (in 2003) this front suspension was priced beyond my budget. The cross bar all by itself was $9K. Pelican had this on sale for $3,750 and I jumped on it. I would like to use drilled rotors and have them ground to about ,020 over minimum
thickness as well as the rears.

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I should probably do a thread on another for this.

That is friendship

Great discussion- thanks for all of the responses.

I’m going piece by piece, have to get new steering rack boots to finish up the turbo toe rod swap.