I tried searching, but didn't find anything in the first few pages of the search results.

I thought I would check with the community here before I go through the process of taking off the door cards to try to diagnose the issue and potentially need new parts (e.g., clips) just to get them back on.

I have an early '73 (build date of Dec '72). My passenger side window does not roll up at all. It started slipping the last couple of times I drove the car when I attempted to roll it up, but now it's not rolling up at all (it's completely down and inside the door). The driver side is now starting to slip as well and I suspect it will also be inoperable soon.

Based on your experience, what is the likely culprit here?

If it's a simple part or two, before removing the door cards, I would place an order for the part(s) along with other door/window bits I should replace while I have the cards off.

Thanks in advance.

Depends on the window lift mechanism, early or late, you’re on the cusp.
Both have plastic bits that are replaceable now.
Remove the door panels and see which version you have and order the parts.

It’s usually the plastic window buttons on an early door. The mechanism gets stiff and they get worn. No matter early or late, lube up all the sliding parts so there is less stress on the parts. That’s also the go to for the entire car. All the latches and cables.

This
https://914rubber.com/early-window-regulator-button-1

UPDATE:

I removed the door card on the passenger side ... looks like the glass came out of bracket/brace it's supposed to sit in, which is why it's not rolling up. It looks like the PO tried gluing it in, but it came undone.

Question #1: I know when the changed over in '73 some were still getting early model door and window parts before they completely converted to late model updates. Can someone confirm I have late doors AND late window parts? I'd like to get a 914 Rubber door kit, but want to make sure I have a completely late car setup.

Question #2: What is the proper was to reattach the glass to that bracket? I'm going to clean all of that old glue off and do this properly.

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I had included pics. Not sure what happened to them ... but I re-added them to the post ; )

1. It looks like you have a later door without the inner reinforcement. The late kit seems correct.

2. Not sure the “correct” stuff but I would use glass urethane adhesive.

Glass out, if that helps with answering the questions I asked above.

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I've used windshield adhesive to repair side windows to track attachment before.

Make damn sure it's where you want it because after that stuff cures it's not coming back out...

Once the tube is opened it's gone. I've never been able to reseal it well enough to not have it harden.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Wi...367895&th=1

Others on the forum might have better (less permanent) solutions and I will be watching for replies

You have the later window mechanism as stated above.

No idea on the “right” glue

Do silicone the front rubber channel liberally
It makes going up and down much easier and won’t pull the glass out of the track again.

Thanks for the info so far.

I removed the the window regulator from the door. I need to remove the bracket from it that should be attached to the bottom of the window.

Question: I see the two rollers that most folks replace (mine are t broken but they have a lot of play and a little bit of wear. But what about that third roller that’s actually a ball joint inside of that plastic square. Can’t that thing be replaced, too? I would imagine that wears out on the inside from the friction/contact.

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I got the same issue on a door and will need to do whatever fixes yours
Please keep us posted..


.

This is what we make. Will take so.e pressure to pop on, C clamp works well.

https://914rubber.com/search/?q=scissor%20type%20regulator

So is this is the replacement for the rollers marked 1 and 2 in my pic, right?

Do you have anything that will replace the square plastic thingy that snaps over the metal ball joint (number 3 in my pic)?

No, sorry. We had not seen enough go bad to make them…..yet.

Ok. I got the old rollers off and new rollers on. That was easy.

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Problem with the triangle window seal though.

As you can see, my old triangle seal (the one that's removed) had a large slot in the bottom for the triangle window support brace, but the new seal does not.

The new seal is from 914 Rubber, but even the OEM Porsche triangle window seals available don't have that slot ... nor do other aftermarket options. All triangle window seals appear to be one size fits all 70-76 with no variations.

Again, my 914 is an early '73 (built in 11/72).

Any insights here?

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Here’s another pic of that bracket/support that requires a slot in the seal. I watched Ian’s video on door seals and the bracket/support on his ‘74 does not have a fin like mine and therefore the seal worked perfect as is for him.

Side Comment...
That is the cleanest damn inner door shell I have ever seen.

Thanks. PO has cleaned them up, but sadly didn't replace any rubber, rollers, or anything. Looks like he just lubed stuff and tried to re-glue the window into the bracket (unsuccessfully). Trying to finish the job the right way.

This is the bracket on Ian's '74 LE. His doors look mostly the same as mine. As we know, the '73 (especially the early '73's like mine) were a transition year with doors and mechanicals.

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I guess I need to find someone who has a pair of brackets for sale from a late 73' or later like those in Ian's video that don't require a slot in the triangle seal.

Are the brackets a direct swap (plug and play)?

@dr914 @autoatlanta.com and @Mikey914 any suggestions here?

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I fought with this over several attempts to first make a slot in the repro rubber and then get the rubber to seat evenly into the door with the triangle glass installed. Eventually I gave up and bought some factory brand rubber. Not NOS, but the molding was different enough to seat better.

So nobody even sells an early triangle seal with the slot?

914 Rubber only appears to have one size fits all option.

Same with Pelican on both aftermarket and OEM.

The slot is another way for water to enter into the door, and it offers no improvements in fitment. I would argue that it actually makes it harder. It's not needed structurally. Our thought process was that it it makes it harder and can be a source of leaks, why copy the problem?

@Mikey914

I really wish the description on your website stated that your seal is not compatible with the early door triangle unless modifications are made to the door or new seal.

A buyer like me with early doors would either need to cut/hacksaw the old metal triangle window supports, swap out the triangle supports for later versions, or significantly modify the 914 Rubber seal to try and mate it with the early style braces (I tried modifying the rubber and was unsuccessful).

I love 914 Rubber products and I'm grateful for the contributions to our community, but after purchasing these seals I'm left feeling misled and disappointed.

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We accept returns for any reason ( without any restocking fees). The only requirement is that they are resealable. Yes, they do work for all applications, but some require modification.

RE: vent window seal. I discovered the same issue and tried to cut the slot into the new seal but it really was not possible without (potentially) ruining the new seal.

Here is what I did; I trimmed the strut that goes through the seal by about half as I noticed some damage to the glass right where the two would meet. I also did cut a slot in the seal. Hopefully the glass and the metal corner piece don't meet anymore.

As an aside, I noticed that the later doors have a much shorter metal brace and I was tempted to try them but the cutting worked well.

Glass now back in, working on adjustments.

Given the build quality in the early seventies, the driver side came out better then the passenger side, who knows why.