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StarBear
Today I noticed that my brake lights don't come on until the pedal is maybe 3/4 depressed, maybe more. It seems from the thread below and comment that maybe I just need to adjust the switch to be activated with less brake pedal travel? The switch is original.
Also, anything else in there I should be replacing so long as I have it opened up?
Maybe even replacing the 50-year old switch?
74 1.8L
Thanks!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=338714

Post #9:
"...The brake switch only makes contact and closes the circuit when it reaches the absolute end of stroke, which is set using the locknut/screw on the switch, I have mine adjusted so that the washer pulls away from the switch arm and actuates the lights just the tiniest bit before I start to feel any resistance from the brake pedal."
Mikey914
Look on the brake pedal. You’ll see the switch. Once you find it it will make a lot more sense.
bdstone914
QUOTE(StarBear @ Sep 30 2022, 04:07 PM) *

Today I noticed that my brake lights don't come on until the pedal is maybe 3/4 depressed, maybe more. It seems from the thread below and comment that maybe I just need to adjust the switch to be activated with less brake pedal travel? The switch is original.
Also, anything else in there I should be replacing so long as I have it opened up?
Maybe even replacing the 50-year old switch?
74 1.8L
Thanks!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=338714

Post #9:
"...The brake switch only makes contact and closes the circuit when it reaches the absolute end of stroke, which is set using the locknut/screw on the switch, I have mine adjusted so that the washer pulls away from the switch arm and actuates the lights just the tiniest bit before I start to feel any resistance from the brake pedal."


@StarBear

That is not correct that the switch does not close until the end of the stoke. Adjustment of the switch changes the range of the swing. I adjust them to cl oi se at about 1-1/2" of brake pedal travel.
Adjusting the switch while installed is near impossible. Remove the pedal board and instect the switch. They can break at the tabs. I have onl seen one fail electrically out of all the pedal sets i have restored. The switch has a 7mm jam nut on the adjustme screw. To make the switch close sooner turn the screw inward. Normally about 3-4 threads should show above the jam nut. If you do get a new switch they are way out of adjustment. If you dont have a helper to watch for the brake light activation hook up a volt meter set for resistance accross the terminals of the switch. The switch is closed when resistance is 0.

On a side note it should not take the pedal depressd 3/4 of the way for the brakes to engage. Maybe the venting clearance on the rear calipers is off?
StarBear
QUOTE(bdstone914 @ Oct 1 2022, 10:55 AM) *

QUOTE(StarBear @ Sep 30 2022, 04:07 PM) *

Today I noticed that my brake lights don't come on until the pedal is maybe 3/4 depressed, maybe more. It seems from the thread below and comment that maybe I just need to adjust the switch to be activated with less brake pedal travel? The switch is original.
Also, anything else in there I should be replacing so long as I have it opened up?
Maybe even replacing the 50-year old switch?
74 1.8L
Thanks!

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=338714

Post #9:
"...The brake switch only makes contact and closes the circuit when it reaches the absolute end of stroke, which is set using the locknut/screw on the switch, I have mine adjusted so that the washer pulls away from the switch arm and actuates the lights just the tiniest bit before I start to feel any resistance from the brake pedal."


@StarBear

That is not correct that the switch does not close until the end of the stoke. Adjustment of the switch changes the range of the swing. I adjust them to cl oi se at about 1-1/2" of brake pedal travel.
Adjusting the switch while installed is near impossible. Remove the pedal board and instect the switch. They can break at the tabs. I have onl seen one fail electrically out of all the pedal sets i have restored. The switch has a 7mm jam nut on the adjustme screw. To make the switch close sooner turn the screw inward. Normally about 3-4 threads should show above the jam nut. If you do get a new switch they are way out of adjustment. If you dont have a helper to watch for the brake light activation hook up a volt meter set for resistance accross the terminals of the switch. The switch is closed when resistance is 0.

On a side note it should not take the pedal depressd 3/4 of the way for the brakes to engage. Maybe the venting clearance on the rear calipers is off?


Thanks, Bruce! Very helpful.
Fortunately, the brakes engage ok, just not the lights. Will dig in there in a few days once the rain ends, and wait until opening before ordering anything.
jim_hoyland
Thanks for that tip; I just did the adjustment.
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