Update:
Success ! Raised the front end yesterday and sprayed PB Blaster on each bolt multiple times. Tapped the bolt heads 15-20x between applications.
This morning the bolt heads turned and I was on the road to an unrelated project.

The 4 bolts that hold the cover are impossible to turn;plus the two front ones require an angled socket ; Need suggestions.........
BFH on the 13mm wrench wouldn't budge the bolt either.

Soak them with some PB Blaster and try a little later. If that doesn't work, buy one of these....it might help out with the angle as well. You can find a relatively cheap one at Harbor Freight.

Click to view attachment

Thanks, will do. I have that too too. The corners of the bolt heads may be getting worn down too

Use only six point sockets.

I personally never use a 12 point socket unless I’m forced to working on an old 4 sided nut or I know the fastener doesn’t need much torque. 12 point sockets are junk for trying to get any thing unstuck (don’t care what brand).

I’d use lots of heat before you resort to the breaker bar. I’ve seen far too many of those steering rack fasteners sheared off.

When I bought my rust bucket, there was already one of the fasteners sheared off, with an EZ out also broken off in it. Replacement via welding was the fix. Fortunately - I was replacing all the floor pan anyway.

Trust me - you don’t want to shear one off.

Thanks. I check the sockets, I must have some 6 pts. Can’t use heat, there’s soft parts near each bolt. Gonna state the PB Blaster tomorrow….

6 point impact sockets and a rattle gun. The impact of the tools hammers breaks loose fasteners without breaking the fastener.

I’ll try that…..

It's critical that you try not to break those bolts. You'll go into a whole new level of frustration. I broke one of mine... and it took days to get it out... and then only with a welder and some tricky effort.

I would not get a bigger rachet... but 6 point socket is a good idea. You'll make it easier to break. Soak with lube... for several days if you can. I would use a torch and some heat. Get as much heat on there as you can... even if its only the head of the bolt... firm but not overly aggressive on the bolt... try to move it both ways.... if it won't move, more lube and wait. I good crack with a hammer too. Try heat again... and repeat until you get it to budge.

If the snap off up inside the mount you have a big mess on your hands.

Don't forget anti seize when you but it back together.

Jim,
l can come over some time this week with my impact gun and impact 6 point sockets. Give me a call.
Bob

Hello Jim...heat is the answer....just be careful not to start a fire or melt anything nearby.... I am talking propane torch right on the item and then carefully attempt to loosen....it worked on my lower seat belts bolts which were brown with rust...so glad they finally came out....all the best and be gentle...let the heat do the work...plus I would put some juice on them for a couple of days....two pronged attack...you got this !!
All the best,
gg

Thanks Bob,I'll call today.

Steering rack cover seals are easily replaced. I’d sacrifice seals (and paint) to heat before I’d risk shearing a bolt head off.

If you do decide to go the impact gun route - start with the lowest setting. Impact guns will shear bolts just as well as a breaker bar if used improperly. Fully agree though that the impact gun cyclic torque is beneficial in loosening fasteners. Didn’t realize you have that available as an option.

Intermix penetrating oil with some impact use and even some more heat - back and forth before ratcheting up the impact gun torque level.

Wishing you good luck -

I don’t think an impact gun is the answer. These bolts seize from rust. I broke mine thinking bigger was better. On the second bolt I used heat and a regular 3/8 ratchet. Go slow lots of heat. I have one of these oxygen/mapp gas torches… I get everything really hot. Try tighten and loosen. Hit it hard on the head with a hammer to help shock it
Loose. More heat and patience.

Too bad it’s under the gas tank.

Hot work permit needs to be filled out - I’ll sign it for ya’

I was just think about that …..hmmmm

Couple of layers of sheet metal between the bolts and the tank. Should not be a problem.

For any stuff you're worried about melting, stick some sheet metal between where the flame is and where the potentially-melty thing is. If you're really worried, you can use a spray bottle of water to keep the sheet metal cool or spray directly on the potentially-melty thing.

Heat is your friend.

--DD

If you break those bolts you’ll have wished you would’ve pulled the tank. On the one I broke I was able to finally weld enough of a nub to grab it with vise grips and work it out. I also had the pan off and was able to add more heat higher up.

Broken bolts in the wrong places are a real nightmare . I’ve had several and every time I wished I’d of slowed down and worked out a better plan.

Truth

Wise words Ishley. About the only thing more painful than a broken screw/bolt is a broken extractor in a broken screw/bolt. Heat, impact (not impact wrench), penetrating oil, then repeat until it'll come loose without a crowbar.

Dan

Are these blind? if they penetrate into the area below the fuel tank, I would pull the tank, allow your favorite penetrant to soak in for a day or so, then go at it with a bit of heat and impact gun.

Mission accomplished See update in post 1

Good - no drama is a great thing!

That’s a relief! Congrats!

Now to get back to the original reason I needed to remove the steering rack cover; I’m going to make a small opening, either on the bottom or on the side, for resetting the MC switch. I had read about this on a thread. After bleeding the brakes, my MC switch goes off and I get the blinking red light. A hole directly under the switch will allow me to reach up with my finger to reset.
Not a big deal.

Now to get back to the original reason I needed to remove the steering rack cover; I’m going to make a small opening, either on the bottom or on the side, for resetting the MC switch. I had read about this on a thread. After bleeding the brakes, my MC switch goes off and I get the blinking red light. A hole directly under the switch will allow me to reach up with my finger to reset.
Not a big deal.

You could replace the switch (maybe it sticks). The switch can be removed from the MC without leaking brake fluid.

Never knew that….

I can reset the switch with my car on the ground and the steering wheel at full right lock.

You can see the button in the photo. Just reach in from the side, from the angle the photo was taken from. Easy-peasy!

--DD