75 2.0 d-jet, 2500 miles on a new motor(2056) - was running perfectly but had a RMS leak, pulled it to get this sorted.

Ok short story is, pulled motor to do RMS and push rod tube seals, so everything came off the motor, everything reinstalled last week but no-start and also second issue is it’s not holding fuel pressure either(it was before- i have a gauge in line) .
Came out this morning to check fuel lines, made sure the supply line was correctly labeled, which if it had been backward might have explained the pressure dropping so fast. that’s correct . went to try and fire it up and cranks fine but no sign of trying to fire, then POP! backfire! now i had pulled the 123igniton distributor to pull the tin, but had left the distributor clamp in the same position didn’t loosen it, so when i reinstalled it i just dropped in into place and tightened down the retaining nut. i had no reason to suspect that it wasn’t lined up, how would that happen? so after the back fire i went to first thing check TDC and distributor alignment, and at TDC(verified by fan mark and red mark on flywheel(red mark is up, the added scratch/white mark on opposite side is seen on bottom)

question one is am i missing something, am i looking at it correctly?
2. how’d it get flipped -180??
3. new injectors too but what else would cause my loss of fuel pressure? the regulator was brand mew 2 years ago and it aloways maintained pressure before i pulled the motor.
oh- yes i had SS lines in tunnel, i did just put on all new lines in back at motor, - there are no leaks.
my thought is- ok new SMP FJ-67 injectors are leaking? sudden failure of the regulator?
i’ll post a few pictures , showing align of the fan and flywheel and distributor.
- open to suggestions, thoughts, theory’s, comments , constructive criticism lol.

Do you suppose that the slotted washer beneath the dizzy could have stuck to the base of the dizzy and fallen back down when you pulled the dizzy out, landing in a new position relative to the cam/dizzy???

slotted washer?

Yes, it is shown on your third pic Phil. Look down into the hole where the dizzy is dropped into. You can lift it out with a magnet.

@76-914


ok,i suppose so? for some reason i thought that slotted washer was part of the drive gear , should i try and pull up the washer and turn it? or does the whole gear get turned sorry i am in new territory here i’ve had my motor out 4x over the 15 years of ownership and i’ve never messed with the gear or washer on either of my motors

Gotta love Clymer

Who’s to say the tang on the bottom of the 123 dizzy wasn’t installed 180 out?

Not saying this is it but you might want to compare the two if your absolutely sure you didn’t move the engine and it’s now 180 out.

#1 cylinder with both valves closed on compression stroke, rotor pointing to cylinder #1 should give you the result you need

Pop off the valve cover so you can see the rocker arms.
Rotate engine until both valves are closed
You should see the flywheel timing notch on the top viewing point in between the engine and trans.

If you are 180 off, the notch is on the bottom.

Then you can adjust the distributor drive gear properly.

Rich

Sorry I missed your question Phil but looks like others have answered it. I'd only add this: when that washer is lowered into place it will rotate a bit so you will need to compensate for that when reinstalling it. The slot is offset so that you can't install the Dizzy 180' off the correct position.

Ok, so it’s alive and running , the short answer is the distributor shaft was not even turning at all, it wasn’t clamped down tight enough it must have jumped up and didnt turn, it was just dumb luck that it was stopped sitting at 180 off,, when i went back and did as you suggested ans made sure with valve cover off that the #1 was not at TDC it was at exhaust stroke when i had every else looked on the TDC, once i knew that i brought it axioms another 180 for actual TCD everything was right on the $ and the distributor now thet its down in place is as well, so lesson learned. i rechecked the 123ignition distributor and then rechecked timing ands right back in the exacts same spot as before i pulled the motor.
Only issue now is fuel pressure drops off fast once the car is off, so i assume the check valve in the fuel pump is bad? no leaks now thst i can see anywhere.

Phil

Or a leaky injector. Liquids don't compress easily and need only to lose a single drop to see a drastic reduction in pressure.

correct, so i tested the injectors, i had installed new SMP FJ67’s, and 2 were dripping when it was under pressure , but not enough to account for the issue, i put me original green tops on and tested them, no leaks so i talked them and ran the car, it still leaks down

Glad you got her going, hopefully the oil leaks are behind you

Then you're correct in your assessment of a leaky fuel pump or the PRV. You can rule out the PRV by plugging that line on the downstream side of the PRV, energize the pump, then watch your gauge once the pump turns off. BTW, I've watched you transform your car over the years as it has progressed from an ugly duckling to the beautiful Swan we see today.

@76-914
thanks so much! i can’t believe that it’s been 14 years this year since we bought the car! it did not run, had rear floor rust and jack points but, the hell hole believe it or not was perfect and still is all original! i really have enjoyed getting it to where it is , only thing i’ve not done is rebuild a motor, but that’s going to be the next step. luckily i have this very nice 2.1 that i can run until thst numbers matching motor is completed.

SO, update for today: i had a spare fuel pump, a Delphi, so i pulled the Bosch that was installed about 10 years ago(i thought it was sooner but my memory was a bit off)
long story short, new pump once it ran for. a few minutes , held pressure even 5 minutes after turning it off! So old pump check valve not working, new one is, good to go !
I think i’m done ans ready for Amelia, today the new back up switch and pin was installed so i now have back up
lights working. i would be remiss if i didn’t give a big shout out to 914rubber and to George and AutoAtlanta, i needed a switch and pin fast ans some new gaskets for CV’s etc i ordered those on wednesday, they went out same day and i had them friday! no one else ever gets parts out that fast. i am only 4 hours from Atlanta so that helps parts come usually i’m a few days vs a week or longer for other companies.

Thanks foe the help ya’all- i still have a center console coming from @914werke , and some new repro ski straps from 914rubber, but car is ready other than a good spit and polish.