I'm getting ready to install a Dakota Digital CHT. Here are my questions:

1. What is the shrink wrap for on the copper wire? Mine came with it as shown in the photo. Do I shrink it once installed? It seems too big to shrink down over the wire.

Click to view attachment

2. I'm installing this on #3 cylinder. Looks like I'll have to bend the spark plug connector. Has anyone done this, or must I grind out a space for it?

3. What circuit should I install this on at the fuse box? The red wire goes to "fused +12V with key on".

4. Is the blue night dimming input required? If so, where does it go on the fuse box?

5. Any tips for running the wire in the engine bay? I was planning on running the wire from the firewall on the driver's side, to the trunk wall, then along that to the #3 cylinder location. The other way would be along the fire wall, but then wires have to cross over the engine and a bunch of other spaghetti to get to #3.

Thanks!
-Jeff
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1. That shrink goes over the screw terminals once you connect it to the long lead wire.

2. I have done it both ways. It's nicer when it lays flat, but I had the engine out and the tin off.

3. I believe I just jumped off the center console wiring for 12v

4. I don't remember having a separate wire for dimming, but this could also be jumped off the center console light wire to go dim when the lights are turned on

5. I ran it over to the battery then along with the wiring harness through the large grommet hole. Then, through the firewall coming up through the heater lever. Similar to how the center console wires go to the engine for temp.

Grind/file a groove into the head for the sensor to lay flat. Put heavy grease around the spark plug hole to grab filings and keep them from going into the head. Its a pain in the butt to pull spark plugs if it gets bent around the head, as the ring tend to wrap around the plug.
Zach

Very accurate gauge. Do they still come with that 12ft lead of did they get around to shortening it a bit?

As others have said, the shrink tube is for after your get it all in place and to cover the two screw terminals. I'd wait to do the final shrink until after you get it in and are happy with everything.

I put mine on #3 without a groove in the head. Just bent the ring up a little bit and had no issue putting it in with the plug. Be patient and don't cross thread the plug.

I got power, ground and dimmer connections by jumping from the appropriate connections on the other gauges in the console. Just used single-to-double spade connectors. Keep from running a longer line to the fuse panel.

Nope - options are still "a lot of extra", or "too short" but I just gathered all the excess and zip-tied it into a bundle. It sits on the bottom of the console behind the gauge panel.

EGT and CHT leads can be very easily shortened; after all, they're just wires. The trick is realizing that you need to thread the wires out of the braided lead (or trim it) and then heat-shrink the end of the braiding to avoid fraying.

https://thesensorconnection.com/videos/how-...be-sensor-cable

I cut the channel. It seats in nicely with that done.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

The shrink wrap is on backwards. I just cut it.

I bent the connector. I was able to screw on the spark plug by hand. How do I tell if it's seated properly? I don't want to tighten it with a wrench only to find I've mangled it. I can't see in there very well. Any tips or tricks for seeing in there? There has to be a way to do this without taking the engine out.

I ran the wire from the cabin thru a hole by the hood release, along the firewall, over by the battery and over to #3. There was already wiring I ran for the oil temp and oil pressure gauges, so I just followed that.

Thanks!

The problem I have is getting the gauge to read F. I touch the leads together and it shows F but after I hook it up it reads C.

As I understand it, the wires can't be cut/shortened because the gauge has been calibrated for resistance through a known length

They sell different lengths of wires. How would the gauge know what length you are using?

Negative, it's not. Notice that there's not a different gauge supplied whether you choose the long or short harness...?

Trim away.

GA

To my knowledge, classic K-type thermocouple (chromel +/alumel -). You can do what you want with the wire as long as you don't switch the polarity. Plenty of wire and yellow connectors around if you want to quickly disconnect for engine removal. Again polarity...

https://www.amazon.com/Temperature-K-type-T...=A2Z11XO0S3YBCN

https://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Female-Thermo...C153&sr=1-4

Correct. Thermocouple output is measured in voltage (mVs and then fed through an amp to get a better reading).

I had that issue as well - just have to follow the directions precisely.
You didn't flip-flop the connections did you? In other words - the long end connects to the short end in both places. If you're installing, this should make sense (I hope...)

Wire connected long to short, short to long. I'll give it another try.

You can get wires that are 6, 10, 14 and 18 ft w/ a 1/2" ring, or 18 ft with a 14mm ring.

14 ft seems to be long enough.

The directions state that "These cables cannot be extended with standard wire."

Back to my question:

I bent the connector. I was able to screw on the spark plug by hand. How do I tell if it's seated properly? I don't want to tighten it with a wrench only to find I've mangled it. I can't see in there very well.

Any tips or tricks for seeing in there? I'd like to hear from those of you who did not take the engine out.

Thanks!

I bent mine, screwed in the plug by hand until it resisted and then put the socket on it and gently snugged it up. I dunno...it just felt right and the depth looked right and the engine ran fine and the gauge read right. I could see that the wire hadn't spun so i called it good.

Yeah, I decided to do the same thing. I screwed in the plug by hand to make sure I wasn't cross-threading it, then put the socket on and continued by hand until it was too hard to turn, then gently turned it with the wrench until snug.

It would be nice to have a much wider hole there, with a rubber seal to match, so we could see in there better.