Hi, my name is Bill Pierce. Former 914 owner and now owner of a 914 racer. I had the privilege of knowing Cap'n Krusty who rebuilt my engine long ago. He lost a 10 mm socket in my garage which I found after he passed and treasure to this day.

My car has a front sway bar, and I am contemplating adding one in the rear. I have read conflicting reports about the value of doing that. The main problem seems to be loss of drive out of sharp corners. The car makes good power. I should mention that, believe it or not, it started as a short track dirt racer in Santa Maria, CA. and as such is fully reinforced front and rear with steel tubing and has a full cage NASCAR style. I have got to believe that it may be the stiffest 914 in existence. Not sure what overall impact this might have.

We have a few 914s in my club (VARA), mostly 6s. I would love to have one of those right up to the moment I had to rebuild it.

Anyway, glad to be back in the 914 fold. I simply cannot believe how the value has increased. I sincerely believe that this started the day after I sold mine. Any tips on racing the car would be appreciated.
Anybody else in SoCal with a track ready 914 would be welcome at our events.

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Nice car! What do you have in it?

Good looking car. You don’t need the rear bar on track. It’s great for autocross though. Welcome back.

What’s with the pieces connected to the bumper and fenders?

Welcome back... We need more pictures. I miss the Cap'n but who loses a 10 mm socket while working on a 914?!?

It is 2196 with 10.5:1 compression and a full race cam, big valves. Close ratio gearing. The engine has quite a few hrs on it and may need to be refreshed at the end of the year, but we'll see. I have not had it out to the track as yet. Unfortunately it takes me out of the production class but it was supposedly clocked at 138 in turn 8 at Willow Springs so at least, by report, should be fast.

That is the armor plating that the dirt guys use to protect themselves from each other on track. It is completely superfluous on a road racer as I intend to use it. I could cut it all out and save some weight, but that would be lots of work. I'm still thinking about it. Meanwhile, it isn't totally hideous in a race car.

back to the mid-engine madness

Ha! you got me. I misspoke. it was actually this hex drive. I believe he was tightening the bolts on the transaxle that had come loose.Click to view attachment Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

Forget The Cap'n. You found a 10mm socket

John was a great guy too

Welcome back. Nice looking car; should be lots of fun.

Very nice!

Charlie

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Love the additional protection both front and rear.

You, Sir, have a German battering ram there.

You could emphasize these hard points for "intimidation factor" value!

Teeth or "armor plate" might be appropriate.

Painted "barb wire" might work.

Folks might get out of the way when they see you coming...

.

In the 90s I built and raced a 914 for SCCA IT and for PCA. After lots of testing of different rate rear springs, and with or without a rear sway bar, I chose to run slightly softer springs with a rear bar. I got similar lap times in both configurations, but I liked the feel better with the bar. The car felt flatter in corners and the rear more compliant on bumps (my test track was a bit rough).

I remember this car from a devious thread about 15 years back

I run in vintage wheel to wheel and also run a rear sway bar. (Upsized from stock)

Devious? Tell us more

Previous is what I meant to type
An old previous post from about 15 years ago

Fat fingers

[quote name='brant' date='Mar 12 2023, 08:47 AM' post='3064510']
I remember this car from a devious thread about 15 years back

I run in vintage wheel to wheel and also run a rear sway bar. (Upsized from stock)

I am curious as to how you mounted the rear sway bar. Pelican has a kit that requires welding the mount with a reinforcement in the trunk, I think but I was wondering about bolt in brackets mainly because I am not a good (I'm really bad) welder.
I, too am curious about the devious post!!!!!!

On my street car weld in mounts

On my race car… fabricated weld in mounts to fit an aftermarket bar

what are all of those holes?

Welcome back. If this is what you refer to using for the rear sway bar mounts, it is not enough by itself. You need to weld in an opposing piece of 1/8" that is slightly larger overall to sandwich the trunk floor. Otherwise the trunk floor will begin to have stress cracks. I just corrected that on mine a few months back. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RRSW...amp;SVSVSI=0719

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[quote name='76-914' date='Mar 12 2023, 10:54 AM' post='3064536']
Welcome back. If this is what you refer to using for the rear sway bar mounts, it is not enough by itself. You need to weld in an opposing piece of 1/8" that is slightly larger overall to sandwich the trunk floor. Otherwise the trunk floor will begin to have stress cracks. I just corrected that on mine a few months back. https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/RRSW...amp;SVSVSI=0719
Yes, thanks to all for the sway bar pictures. Pelican recommends reinforcement of the floor for that very reason. Based on the position, it looks like some sort of welded arrangement plus reinforcement is the best. It's been years since I repaired the Hell hole on my previous car. Back to YouTube I guess. Thanks again.