I found this but not sure where it came from....?

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Thanks Rick! I'll do that.

Just ordered mine too. Had a question so called Ed and he actually answered even though it was almost 7:00pm his time. Awesom guy. Great business.

Looks like a good starting point.
Thanks

I want to thank all of you for supporting 123ignition. Also thanks for your patience. I know a couple people have ordered, we fell short and will be fulfilling those orders next week.
The graph is a great help. I just wonder if there is a static time that needs to be figured in on top of those numbers. 27 degrees all in seems a little low to me. If you have a motor manual it should tell if there is supposed to be a static time and may even give an all in figure and at how many rpm.

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Thanks so much
Ed

Re Vanagon
Couple of things to find out.
Is it carburetted or fuel injected?
If fuel injected is it a D-Jet injection where it depends on the distributor for triggering the injectors. Or does it have a separate computer that monitors the injection?
Once you have the answers to the above questions you can determine which product you might need.
D-Jet products end in -IE (TUNE+ 4-R-V-POR-IE)
Carburetted and non D-Jet injection units are all the same whether you choose switched or Bluetooth.
Then look at the line drawings in the product description and compare against your original distributor. Attached is a line drawing for VW and Porsche.

Ed,

Appreciate your inputs on this Chart. The bottom of the chart is cut off and states:

"All but the first two and the last single entry were taken from tables in the factory manual. The others were taken from graphs in the factory manual. The advance curves on the graphs for those first two distributors start at 5 degrees, and increase by 11-15 degrees. Likewise the retard curves start at +5 degrees (advanced) and decrease by 8-10 degrees. However, the last [2.0] graph starts both the advance and retard curves from zero degrees.

So a note about "Total advance or retard is relative to the timing with no vacuum" or something to that effect is probably in order."

This is where I found it:
http://web.archive.org/web/20030202024600/...ww.dgi.net/914/

Would really like your inputs on the programming of my 039 905 205B (which I'm guessing is the last row for the 2.0 noted unlabeled. (It is almost the same as the 205A above it anyway.)

Based on the 123 dist instructions, these points need to be doubled (assuming the chart is based on distributor rpm and not crankshaft).

Centrifugal:
0 deg @ 900rpm becomes 0 deg @ 1800rpm
9 deg @ 1500rpm becomes 18 deg @ 3000rpm
15 deg @ 2000rpm becomes 30 deg @ 4000rpm
22 deg @ 2800rpm becomes 44 deg @ 5600rpm

Vacuum:
0 deg @ 108mmHg becomes 0 deg @ 15kPa and finally 0 deg @ (100-15) 85kPa
7 deg @ 125mmHg becomes 14 deg @ 17kPa and finally 14 deg @ (100-17) 83kPa

Does this sound right to you?
Would really appreciate your inputs...
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WARNING: Too many @ tags!
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I might be concerned about the all in number of 44 degrees. But only because I know nothing about your cars and what they should be running all in and at how many rpm.
So first thing to do is confirm whether the chart is crankshaft or distributor degrees.

In my opinion, (which doesn't mean much) normally some timing is needed at start up.
In the British car world the starting sweetspot is usually somewhere between 12 and 17 degrees.

Your manual should tell you if they are referring to distributor degrees or crankshaft degrees. We always refer to crankcase degrees which are double the distributor degrees.
As for the Vacuum I would not use vacuum retard only vacuum advance. Normally the map curve in the app is good and adds 10 degrees when the inches of mercury call for it. You could make that value whatever you like.

NJ -

Please send me the curve when you get it. Got my 123 dizzy last week and happy I'll be getting another 5%.

I too have a '76 but it has Weber's on it - got the D-Jet dizzy and hope to have the D-Jet running in the fall.

GN

Ed -

Did I get the right dizzy? Weber's now, D-Jet in fall? What about vacuum? Forgot to ask you about that..

GN

aka Richard Hanes

Hi Richard
My records show you should have the TUNE+ 4-R-V-IE. It may say injection under the product name on the bottom right of the package or to be sure all D-jet distributors have two small wires yellow and white. Those are the trigger wires. Let me know if I mis shipped to you. The D-jet can run a standard carburetted car with out issue, but a non D-Jet will not run an injection car that is running the D-Jetronic injection. As for vacuum all the TUNE+ models come with vacuum as an option. I would recommend if you are going to use it, to use the map curve that comes with the distributor. It adds 10 degrees of vacuum advance on top of the centrifugal curve when the inches of mercury call for it. Many choose to run only the centrifugal curve and that is ok. The map/vacuum curve will only work if a vacuum line is connected to create a signal. It is your choice!

Ed - sent PM.

GN

Richard: I plan on going through the curves etc this weekend and will get back to you.

Ed: I mistakenly erased the vacuum curve that the 123 distributor came with.
Can you please send it to me or post it here...?

Just purchased
Now the fun begins
Ed has been very helpful. Its a nice to have a real person to answer questions and in a timely manner

If you didn't erase the curve on the distributor by writing the zero curve to it, then it should still be there. Just do a read to find out.
Here is the vacuum curve that comes in all the distributors as a sample. There is also a link HERE. This is a tutorial on curves.

Here is an interesting thread - http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...;hl=123ignition

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Here are some advance curce specs I found that are in "Installed Ignition Distributor", so crankshaft degrees not distributor degrees.
These are all 022 part numbered distributors, I have not found any 039 distributor specs.

Jim

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Just installed my BT model. I have a 2.0 with original FI cam and dual Dells. There are only about a hundred different threads on here about setting curves on these distributors, with everyone agreeing to use different values . I chose a conservative curve to start with and set my car up with a 7 degree static advance. Car started up with no issues and runs fine. Good enough for me at the moment. I was curious why no one seems to just set up the BT unit with 0 degree curve at distributor (set it at TDC) and then just use the programming to dial in the advance from there.

I’ve been off the board awhile and this distributor is new to me. I misplaced my Mallory unilite vac adv somewhere. Is this a good alternate? Seems like everyone is liking it.