Can anyone recommend someone in the south sound area that can clean and refinish a fuel tank?

Depending on condition and amount of work needed, keep in mind there are Dansk repro tanks available for just over $200 (plus shipping). - GA

I agree 100%; buy a new one and never worry about it failing again.

What you need is an old-fashion radiator shop, The type that used to "rod and repair" all of our radiators.

Around here they have all gone out of business as the "new" plastic tanked radiators are uncleanable.

Back 20 years ago I commonly paid 100+ to have a tank cleaned.

Cannot imagine what they would want now...

I'm just going to buy a new tank if mine is the slightest bit messed up.

I'm guessing the new tank will be cheaper than having the old one cleaned.

If you only have light surface rust in the tank - phosphoric acid will clean it nicely.

If it’s worse than that, buy a new tank.

Stay away from tank sealers.

Just did this.
Cheaper than cleaning
Much nicer.
Replace all gaskets, hoses etc etc

I took my 70 tank a few years ago to a radiator place that did a reseal, paint, etc. It looked new but also not stock anymore as they drilled and then plugged a few holes in it. It was more than the new Dansk tanks available now. I am redoing the fuel system on my BB and was surprised the tank was in such bad shape. I just bought a new one.

Thanks all . . .. Got the tank out and after seeing the inside, It's a mess. I'll get a new one even though they are close to $300 now.

Thinking of canceling my order for new stainless lines. When I pulled the old hoses off the front of the tunnel I found metal lines with barbed fittings! Not plastic. What's up with that? I've had this car since it was just 10 years old! '75 1.8 I bought in '85, had to be stock.

Did porsche use metal tunnel lines?

They are plastic with a metal barbed fitting on the end.

No sir, although I do get why you might think that. The ends are metal as Rich said. The later cars had lines that were made of a black plastic-ish material less likely to crack but at this age they should be replaced.

It does have the black plastic-ish lines in the engine bay .. ..

The metal barbed ends are spliced onto the tank end of the plastic lines that go through the tunnel into the engine bay. I wish that the new tanks had been available when I had my original tank cleaned about 10+ yrs. ago and paid $350 for the service!

$300 for a brand-new tank is DIRT CHEAP!

New early Datsun Z tanks are 700+

Modern plastic tanks are 600-1K. I know this as thieves can stick a K-bar style knife through them to steal your fuel because the anti-siphon valves really work...
So, to save $75 worth of gas you lose 1k minimum as the thieves just knife them FIRST.

Don't you just love modern technology...

I would not allow any 50-year-old plastic/rubber anything to hold or transfer fuel, oil, refrigerant, or brake fluid, especially modern fuel under pressure.
Way too many other chemicals have been in our fuel in the last 30 years for anything but metal lines to have resisted IMO.

Advice Taken - New tank and the new SS lines on the way. Always interesting when you get into one of these projects what you find. When I pulled the fittings off the bottom of the tank, the screen crumbled and the return line that had been capped off when I had done the conversion (37 years ago) was completely clogged.

Re-fitting the lines looks interesting, I watched the video and read some say how easy it is - we'll see about that. I am doing both since I'll probably go back to FI requiring the return.

Where do the 3 "felt" pads go? I found 3 when the tank came out, but it was only evident where 2 were still stuck in. I did notice some paint worn off in two locations and I'm thinking of adding more padding. They are listed as being felt pads, but felt will hold moisture and they sure look as if they did. Would rubber be better?

Also did a sway bar support repair. Years ago I'd done a half ass repair on one side where the nut plates had cracked out. So, I got the nut plate repair/addition kit from 914 Rubber so with the tank out, got my buddy Mike, the master with a MIG, to put those in. At that time years ago I'd put in a 911 19mm bar and made my own solid drop links which made a big difference in handling for auto crossing, I could even preload it a bit. I"m thinking now that the rubber bushed drop links would be better for the street and I should go back to those.

I purchased new SS lines from Chris (Tangerine) and kept them on the shelf for at least 2 years due to my hesitance to installing them through the tunnel already filled with plenty of stuff. Turned our to be one of the easiest projects to date. personally I sensed the "plastic" lines could go another 1/2 century, but changed them anyway. Leaking fuel is never good.

I have done Chris's lines on two cars now and will do a 3rd soon. A bit easier with the engine out of the way but did my 70 with the engine in place. It does help to have an assistant in the car guiding the lines in the tunnel.

I hope I can do it with the engine in. Mine is a SBC and everything is above the cross brace - I think the only thing else I may have in the way is a cooling line - we'll see how that goes.

I did mine with the engine in. Should be no problem for you Bruce. Chris Foley's lines are a perfect fit.

Just did mine this week, engine in, and right rear tire left on. No helper other than a borescope to see routing in the tunnel.

Great Idea! I have a WIFI bore scope - Did you place it in the tunnel by the shifter facing aft, then looking aft from the front with the pedal board out?

Lines came in yesterday, looking at getting them in soon. I went with the 9.5 mm feed line and the 8mm return figuring I'll be going to FI at some point.

Question for those of you that have done this a few times - Feed first then return? What's the best way? No instructions were provided.

Hey Bruce,

Just bumping this up to the top for you. It's been a LONG time (10+ years) since I did my lines and I had 8mm both ways, but the process is pretty much the same. I did not remove the engine, just lifted the car up fairly high. The nice thing about unequal size lines is you can't install them "backwards" . They look identical but have different bends at the engine bay end, which is not noticeable until you're almost done.

As I recall the only "hard" part was the fact that the lines have a bend at the fuel tank end so it took some wiggling and fishing to get them through the last bit. Also keep the rubber ends on them and put a little grease on them to help get them through the grommet.

Of course I do not know the answer to your only real question, which line to do first....If you bought them from Pelican they were very likely Chris Foley/Tangerine Racing lines. I can't find the instructions I received with mu kit but maybe someone else has them? @ChrisFoley could maybe help as well.

Ian has a nice video of this, he did the supply line first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDFsZoI_W3g

My products are not being sold by Pelican Parts at this time.

It’s easier with the rear tires off if you’re on the floor. Take the seats out. Remove center console if equipped. When done with the tubing, put the tires on and Dr seat in and drive a bit to ensure every thing is good.

Sorry Chris. I've been trying to spread the "love" through my project and give everyone that supports our teeners some support.

B