I got the tank out, removed the old lines, got the fuel lines through the tunnel but I am stuck on how the engine bay lines work.

Anyone have any photos of how they worked that one? Or what the layout looks like?

Also, anyone have a schematic on how the layout looks for the fuel pump relocation to the front under the car but the steering rack?

I must suck at searching because I was unable to find what I was looking for... thanks all!

Before I moved it to the frunk

Click to view attachment

If the pump is in front, the feed line (rubber) goes up the passenger long, along the back trunk wall, then connects to the fuel pressure regulator.
Off the regulator feeds the driver side injectors, then from there to the passenger side injectors, then back to the return line to the tank.

I guess it’s up to you, but the regulator is first, then injectors

Lots of results here. You can narrow your search as needed.

site:914world.com stainless steel fuel lines

http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_fuellines_ss.php

Got that backwards. Pressure goes from the tunnel to the #3/#4 rail, across the top of the engine to the #1/#2 rail, then to the regulator. Ljet has the CSV in the middle of the run between banks, and Djet has it off the #1/#2 rail. Return goes from the regulator, across the back of the engine/rear firewall, back down to the tunnel.

@iankarr did a video on the install:

https://youtu.be/IDFsZoI_W3g

Pelican link for hose diagrams. For late model under-car routing look at the 1.8 diagram:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/914/technical_...el_diagrams.htm

Cool, thanks. I had looked at this before. Didn't really help me with the engine bay ss lines that are included with kit and the photo that is included with the kit is rubbish... haha. Plus the pump is up front now too...

I will just figure it out, seems like the only way

thanks! i looked at that video, he skips over the lines in the engine bay, that is the part I am sort of lost on, how the Shorter stainless lines are run in the engine bay.

They poke through grommets on the shelf under the battery pedestal. Larger bend radius(in regards to the "hooked" end that goes towards the top rear passenger corner of the engine compartment) line goes in the forward hole and is usually used for return, smaller bend radius in the aft hole and is usually used for pressure as it is just a little closer to the #3/#4 fuel rail. In reality, you can use whichever one you want for pressure or return as long as you mark them somehow to avoid confusion when you're completing the circuit. Mine were very similar, so I just used red nail polish to mark the pressure line a couple inches away from the end. Basic point is that the longer more-straight end goes down through the shelf, and the hooked end sticks up in the engine bay aft of the battery for both lines.

Edit: you can see the top end of the lines at 9:38 in Ian's video. Note the MPS mounted above the shelf and the rain tray drain hose for reference. The thick black cable to the left of the lines is the positive battery cable going from the battery to the starter.

exactly backwards of what I said....lol

Diagrams help.

Sweet! thanks mate. I assume a reducer is needed between the engine bay ss line and the fuel lines in the rail for the supply line?

Thanks for helping, I am a noob to working on cars :/

You're welcome! Sounds like you have the early large diameter feed line in the tunnel? The best solution is to use one of the reducers Tangerine sells, or something similar if you happen to have a local source. Stretching the small hose to the large line can damage or fatigue the hose causing leaks, and clamping a large hose to the smaller tube will almost always result in a leak. Up to you on how and where you want to fit a transition in.

https://tangerineracing.com/shop/ols/produc...e-adapter-piece

Cool, I got a couple already! I planned a little bit.

I think I got the layout down. but not sure what #1 in my photo is and there is a hose that was going to to the FP before I moved it #2

Great!

#1 is the Decel Valve, and #2 looks to be the same hose that is attached to the right hand side of #1. If it is, it should be connected to manifold vacuum, as should the port pointed up in relation to the photo. Port on the left should be routed to the air filter housing.

Ok, thanks. man, I wish I shot photos before unhooking stuff because I pretty sure #2 was connected to something to do with the fuel lines... damn, I usually take before photos...

Check out Ian Karr's video about the fuel line install...I've referred to it a few times and it's very helpful. Google 914 fuel lines Ian Karr and you're there.

We have a "Tribal Wiki" that is accessed from the resources tab on the front page.

https://914rubber-tk.com/doku.php?id=fuel_line_installation

Did you get it complete? How did it go? What were the gotchas?

I'm going to do this on our 914-6 next weekend and have a small window to get it done. Not sure how different the 4 and the 6 are other than the lines themselves.

Cool, I will check this out! Thanks.

I have it mostly sorted out and will button it up today. I will share my thoughts after.

Question for the folks who have done this conversion:

1. I have it all buttoned up but curious what the final steps are?
- Just fire it up?
- any testing prior to the first start?
- any prep before starting for the first time again?
- etc...

Check the oil, check the trans fluid.
Pressurize the fuel system prior to starting by turning the key on to do so.
Check for leaks!
Pull coil wire and crank to bring oil pressure up. Reinstall wire to coil.
Start

I have had 1 transmission that at some point got turned sideways and lost a bunch of fluid. Forgot about that months later and installed it. It didn't last long.

I'm sure there may be things that would be good to add, but these are the catastrophic things that can ruin your day.

PS don't leave the key in the on position too long as you can damage points and coil.

I don't know about you, but the grommets were a real PITA. I ended up needing to taper them with a Dremel to get them started. And even then had to use a flare nut wrench to get them to fully seat with the line inserted.
Click to view attachment

Do NOT just fire it up.

Key on and build pressure. You want to do this a few times till you start hearing bubbles from the fuel tank or the pump laboring.

Look and FEEL for leaks. Every joint in the fuel system that you have changed is suspect. Including under the tank where its hard to reach and see.

Verify pressure - handy if you have a gauge in line. If you don't have a gauge then its just hope that pressure is correct from the regulator.

And if its been a while, check and make sure you have oil in the engine and such before firing it up.

Zach

I just went through this myself as part of a stainless steel fuel line install. I also had to taper them, too. Then while pushing one of the SS lines through the firewall the grommet went through the hole in the tunnel and I spent a decent amount of time trying to fish it out. Ended up installing the grommet after pushing the SS line through.