Dropping the engine soon (next week). Although replacing the oil cooler seals was easy without dropping the engine, the cooler itself was toast.

So, new cooler and seals are on their way from autoAtlanta, as well as new seals for the pushrod tubes. Anything else I should touch up while it is down? It is going to be sitting on the tangerine racing engine removal plate. The seals on the side of the transmission need to be replaced. Is that something I can do without pulling the transmission apart?

I have ordered the cv gaskets as well.

It is worth the work to freshen up the main seals.

I assume you don't need to crack the case for that.

No just expose the crank ends.

Hmmm, while the engine is out .............................

New engine bay seals. The task will never be easier. Esp the rear. Kill any rust you spot.

this is a big can of worms unless you don't get side tracked

Might I suggest you get ready to clean the engine bay...and possibly touch up some paint areas.

Backpad typically needs work...or glue.

Engine....well, anything on the bottom (sump, oil temp etc) is easier while it in the car.

Push rod tube seals...easier when out, but can be done in the car.
Set valve clearances.
Valve cover gaskets.

Trans
Speedo rubber seal
I think (can't recall) you can replace the trans side seals at the axles without removing that plate... Someone else please comment...I can't remember.

Shifter console does leak...only one leaked in my life, but it must have been put in wrong, it had a ruined o-ring.

Top of motor.
Oil pressure sender...remove, clean, replace if needed...those do leak
Cooler (remove fan, then some tin, then fan housing, then cooler) This is all from the front of the motor.

I would suggest you have some short 4X4 and short 6X6 blocks ready to set the motor on so its stable...you need to use some force to get the fan bolts off...which could easily tip the motor off a jack in the middle.

Good luck.
Stick to your list...you will driving again in no time.

Rich

I did both CV shaft hub seals when I took my engine out too. It was not difficult and I did not have to take the trans apart. Both of mine were leaking.

Great. What are the seals called? I was browsing the usual vendors and never felt confident that I was actually looking at what I needed.

96mm pistons easy when engine is out

Output Shaft Seal

https://pmbperformance.com/products/transmi...12e-914-and-924


Standard press in seal
To remove , pry out gently with flat head screw driver
Be careful not to scratch or gouge the aluminum face the seal rests against on the outside of the seal
Pry from the inside edge.

If that does not work, use a screw gun and drive a screw into the face of the seal, no pilot hole
Grab screw with electrical dykes and rip the seal out…it will end up mutilated.

Install is a gentle tap, lightly greased outer edge.
Using a dowel to tap around the edge, or a full size piece of pvc the same diameter as the seal.

Slow and gentle removal and insertion
No scratching the aluminum

Next time! That and a new cam.

Thank you for the instructions. I will definitely do this.

And new heads

I've never dropped the engine in my car, but I've installed a new clutch, changed oil cooler seals, replaced pushrods and seals, installed a timesert after pulling an exhaust stud, and probably a bundh of other things I'm forgetting that people say are easier to do with the engine out.

May be a stupid question, but how does one easily access the underside of the engine after removing it? Seems like some of the aforementioned jobs- especially those requiring access to the bottom of the engine, might be easier with the engine still in the car. Some of the free standing engine stands I've seen would appear make it harder to work on the underside of the engine.

What are y'all using?

Yeah, heads too. I think I will try to build a wooden stand if I have to but I suspect the stuff I am going to do won't require much. I did find the cooler seals to be quite easy, and the fact I didn't have a lift actually made it easier since I could lay on my back the whole time.

I use an engine stand with a cradle bolted to the block where the transmission goes, I can spin it upside down if I need to

When I pull an engine, I remove the exhaust first, then drop it, then pull the trans off, then put it on an engine stand.
360 degree access at that point

Buy a stand at harbor freight (4 wheels not 3)
Buy a VW aircooled cradle from CBPerformance, jbugs etc …some vw company.

Don’t bother messing around, it’s not worth it.

Two guys can lift a type 4 onto a stand.
I used to be able to do it alone….now I use my lift to pick up heavy things

What is the minimum height I should raise the car to (measured at the engine mount cross arm)? My jack isn't particularly flat but isn't bad (3ton daytona). Using the tangerine jack plate. I don't want to have to raise the car after I have my jack in place under the engine and I don't want to raise the car any higher than I have to.

The poor guy is trying to get this done in a weekend

I always get the rear of the car as high in the air as I can manage. The very top position on the jack stands, under the rear jacking donuts, and the front wheels on the ground. I remove the intake, dipstick, and oil filler/breather.

To support the engine, I have used cinder blocks. No joking. One under each end of the motor mount bar, and one with some wood blocks under the transmission. It's ugly, but it works. And my floor jack was able to lift the whole shebang up high enough for that, so no extra help needed.

Before replacing seals, I would pop the engine tin off and have a look at what's underneath it. Mouse nests, dirt, leaves, and all of the other stuff that tends to accumulate under the tin should be cleaned out. That should help with cooling... Note that you will need the biggest flat-head screwdriver that Sears sells to fit the slots in the engine tin screws. Using a screwdriver with a head that does not fit is a recipe for mangled screws and lots of frustration.

--DD

Gunsmith screwdrivers or the flathead screw bits with the mitered tips. WAY more positive engagement with the screws then the best standard screwdriver.



These type. Brand isn't important. Every hardware store sells them and bit drivers to turn them.

Zach

As high as you can get it.
If you find you cannot pull the engine out, it will be at the rear bumper.
At that point you can rest the motor on some blocks and go raise the car higher….it’s much lighter now.

Take your time, you have as long as you need, no rush

Are you planning to remove the rear valance? My guess is that your will need about 24 inches to clear a motor sitting on a floor jack, more if you leave on throttle bodies or carbs.

About that rear valence...
Click to view attachment

I will just try to get it as high as I can. I may need to raise the front as well since my front air damn is pretty low.

With carbs clearance can be tight. I remove mine as the complete assem. Saves current adj and you just put it on after the engine is back in.

The way I do it is with a dolly.
1) top of engine disconnect ( fuel and electric) intake if carbs.
2) jack up rear, jack stands under for safety
3) remove shifter, clutch cable, heat&cables, speedo, ground strap, muffler
4) remove wheels and axles (just unbolt from trans)
5) lower car until engine is 1/2 inch above strategically placed 2x4 on the dolly, or Dollie’s
Remove 4 bolts from beside and behind car, no longer under it
Motor and trans gently settle onto Dollie’s.
6) jack up car, remove things I forgot which I see easier now
7) start rolling engine back
8) once it’s about halfway, I put two jack stands under rear firewall and lower car just a bit…then add a 2x4 or two to the top of my jack and take the back up higher to get the motor all the way out the rear.


I prefer the furniture Dollie’s because I don’t tie up a jack under the motor, and the Dollie’s are more stable, plus they support the engine on one and trans on the other….lots of blocking to put pressure where I chose and never put any weight on the heat exchangers. My method requires two floor jacks, but I find it has been the easiest way to do this on the floor. Low stress, no rushing required. It’s a few beers todo the first time, but take your time and be safe!!!

When I get my two post lift my method will be the same, but the dolly will be a table with wheels.

Tools,
2 floor jacks
12 point tool to remove cv joints
17,19,13,14,15,16 sockets….and everything you have that is 10mm
Allen wrench set for shifter
Vice grips

I try to have all of the tools on the floor already to save 50 times up and down to get things, which wears me out

I assume your front spoiler is removable….go do that

No chance I can remove the dam.
Click to view attachment

I have the tangerine racing jack attachment for dropping the engine (thanks Chris! It just arrived today).

I have an extra floor jack but it is not what I would call quality. It should work in a pinch though.

Should I remove the exhaust? Does it make it easier?

Remove muffler, you can leave the exchangers on.
I tend to take them off, but head studs may create more issues for you.

Rich

Yeah, would rather leave the studs alone.

I have fuel injection so no carb worries.
Disconnected everything up top last night.
Next job is the underside. Still waiting on the seals and the cooler anyway.

http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop1.php

http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop2.php

http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop3.php



PS: You probably need some more clearance if you have carbs, the image below is for stock FI without air filter

Thank you sir Andy, couple of things in those links I had not thought about. My seals are shipped (thank you dr. 914). Tomorrow I will do the underside and try to get the engine free!

What do you guys think about me putting the original banana back on? I do love the sound of the ansa but I do like the single exhaust look. The last time I had the banana on the motor it was in terrible shape so my opinion on the improvement from adding the ansa is a little biased.

Is it out yet?

Haven't even crawled out of bed yet!

When I put the anza on to replace the banana, my car ran better. Flowed better.
If you have a performance form of the banana you may not notice a negative
in performance.

Everything is ready for the drop but I have a stripped cone screw at the firewall. Thankfully I am not in a hurry.

You might be able to force in a larger allen wrench and get it to come out that way. I did that once successfully.

What is the performance banana? Mine looks like a stock 73 2.0 banana to me.

Heat and extractor got it out. All ready to drop the engine.

if it was done right originally, the outer rubber seal that is all around the outside of the engine is actually hooked under the engine tin.

Go around the outside from above and below and unhook it...

Tin has a vertical tab the sticking into the rubber "gutter" like setup.

Rich

It was a tough delivery.

Click to view attachment

Now you’re no longer an engine drop virgin :

Only gets easier next time. Before you know it you’ll be dropping the engine just for fun.

I hope not.

Just put a zipper in now.

You still need a large one to fit the screws properly. Otherwise you're putting all of the torque onto two small points.

I got so fed up with the screws that I replaced them with Allen-head ones.

--DD

Any time you feel cocky about dropping a 914 motor, remember that the current record for removing AND reinstalling a VW bug motor is 42 seconds.