So I am wacking away on the pickle fork seperating the 914 strut from the a arm and I notice I have effectivly destroyed the ball joints rubber cover and grease (I assume) is everywhere. I am thinking, this isn't good. No problem I got another set on the 911 a-arms, happy times again, but wait a second it turns out there is a special tool that you have to have to unscrew the nut on the bottom of the ball joint. Pelican has them for around $50. So that leads me to my two questions:
1. is there another way to remove the ball joint nut? if not is there a cheaper source?
2. is it unwise to use a used ball joint? Don't mind buying new but hey if you ain't got to....

hammer and chisel, big pipe wrench, air impact hammer....take your pick, they all work fine for removing the nut......

QUOTE (Mueller @ Aug 15 2005, 02:54 PM)

hammer and chisel, big pipe wrench, air impact hammer....take your pick, they all work fine for removing the nut......

Ahh, the BFH (Big Forking Hammer) method....

just make sure whatever you're replacing and whatever you're replacing it with are the same type. IIRC a '72 should have had the early type and the 911 joints probably aren't - but who knows what may have been updated in 35 years...

and if you mess up the nut, no big deal, they are available used as well as brand new ($17.50)

Dave Hunt made a tool from scrap 2" pipe...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...&f=2&t=7524&hl=

QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Aug 15 2005, 03:09 PM)

just make sure whatever you're replacing and whatever you're replacing it with are the same type. IIRC a '72 should have had the early type and the 911 joints probably aren't - but who knows what may have been updated in 35 years...

It has the suspension from a '75 914 so it should mate up but you never know. I think I am going to have to drop the a arms to put the turbo tie rods in so that will be a good time to figure out what I am going to do. Looks like the torson bars need to be reset as one side had the height adjustment screw all the way in and the other side had it all the way out. If worse come to worse I could use the 911 a arms and torson bars.

QUOTE (bowlsby @ Aug 15 2005, 03:10 PM)

Dave Hunt made a tool from scrap 2" pipe... http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...&f=2&t=7524&hl=

Maybe I should buy the socket and then start a ball joint socket club, rent it out for $1 plus mailing cost to club members. You think there would be any interest?

John,

I bought the "special tool" and still could not get enough grip on nut before tool slipped. Ended up using a pipe wrench and could not believe how easy it was.

As cheap as ball joints are, I would not replace with a used piece. Just my opinion.

John

hose it down for 2 days with aerokroil. put the chisel bit in your pneumatic hammer and place the chisel in one of the notches of the clamping nut. it will loosen in no time. i think this method does less damage overall than the pipe wrench. esp when the wrench slips or you mash one of your fingers smacking it with the bfh. aerokroil is a very important product to have in your garage! oh, i have found it's easier to loosen the clamping nut while the balljoint is still in the strut.

k

Use a pipe wrench.

72 has a through bolt that is threaded into one side of the strut, the ball joint has a round indent in it.

72 (second half of the year) and onwards has a v shaped groove with a funky bolt/wedge that fits in that v groove and holds much better than the older version.

U will know right away if the ball joint is bad, before you set it down on the floor, rock the wheel top and bottom...

Rich

It all depends ...after 30 yrs some of um DONT WANNA COME OFF!
I just pulled a couple of pair off of A arms I was sending to blast & powdercoat and the first set after chemicals fire & ice wouldnt budge ended up completely wreking one arm & the other nut.
The other pair cam off with relitive ease
BTW I broke Daves pipe tool pictures above trying to get one off

i thought you have a big fancy compressor? a hammer and a pipe wrench and distroy an a-arm, nice . what do you use for penetrating fluid caveman? the combo of penetrant and the rapid vibrations of the pneumatic help break the rust bond.

k

I had a helluva time trying to get mine off, I tried the chisel technique but basically hosed up the nuts, did the home made pipe wrench with no luck. I took the the car to the local Pcar shop when I did an alingnment and gave them the parts and had them do it. Best $60 bucks I spent, they even had a bitch of a time getting them off.

QUOTE (rhodyguy @ Aug 15 2005, 08:12 PM)

hose it down for 2 days with aerokroil. put the chisel bit in your pneumatic hammer and place the chisel in one of the notches of the clamping nut. it will loosen in no time. i think this method does less damage overall than the pipe wrench. esp when the wrench slips or you mash one of your fingers smacking it with the bfh. aerokroil is a very important product to have in your garage! oh, i have found it's easier to loosen the clamping nut while the balljoint is still in the strut. k

pneumatic hammer, got to get me one of them new fangled contraptions..... I already gots the nice big compressor

The P210 should really be used with an air-wrench.

I have a couple of the proper ball joints if you need them. New or used.

E.

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Aug 15 2005, 08:38 PM)

The P210 should really be used with an air-wrench. I have a couple of the proper ball joints if you need them. New or used. E.

Ok, well I ponyed up for the P210 tool. I am going to give the ball joints on the 911 a arms I have a look to see if I can use them, if not you want to trade a couple of ball joints for a pair of /4 rear capliers?

#1. It is a Balljoint INSTALLATION tool. Using it to remove the nut, if the nut is in the standard shape they normally are in, will lead to destruction of the tool, plus the use of many fine words, and possibly a useless blood sacrifice.

#2. Use a dremel to cut the nut and pry it off.

#3. Use anti-seize to re-install.

#4. Use the nice, new tool to tighten the nut.

Actually that was my next question: is it safe to use Anti-sieze on those nuts when re-torqing them? And Kev while I have the big-ol compressor its still not hooked up.

QUOTE

Ok, well I ponyed up for the P210 tool. I am going to give the ball joints on the 911 a arms I have a look to see if I can use them, if not you want to trade a couple of ball joints for a pair of /4 rear capliers?

Whew... when to stop? I've got calipers coming outta my...

We can talk.

I've always used the P210 to both install and remove with no problems but I use generous amounts of heat upon removal (bad joints only). I guess the cut them or pipe wrench thingy might be best if you want to save the ball joint.

QUOTE

Actually that was my next question: is it safe to use Anti-sieze on those nuts when re-torqing them? And Kev while I have the big-ol compressor its still not hooked up.

I can't see why not... if you have the proper star lock they can't move once they're torqued up.

rich, as big as that comp is and if it's too big for the garage, you'll need 10 cans of aerokroil unsieze the comp.

k