How many guys have done the /6 conversion and had the tank cut outs fit correctly with a new tank?

can we "assume" all inner fender stampings are identical, but maybe not?

I have two new welded aluminum tanks from different suppliers, neither would fit into the location as supplied. I cut 3/8" from the vent pipe to get one of these into the correct area. Then I proceeded to drill the mounting holes and followed with the hole saws.
Once again, I assumed with all of the new penetrations centered in their respective stamped recesses all would be correct.

Not, the oil filter console is off center 1/4" and the oil fill stub is offlocation by 3/16"

Is this a common issue?

One of the vendors when contacted claim "We typically cut all the holes a little large, then float the tank &filter console into place"

Sounds hokey to me.

Hi John,

When I did my brothers 6 conv. I used a factory tank and cut the holes the same size as my factory 6. I had no issues installing the tank. I actually had the tank in and out of the car several times. Only PIA part was the lower suction hose. Once I had it clocked correctly it was an easy install. I know some tanks are a little larger then the factory tanks. Depending on the aftermarket tanks you have you may need to massage it a little to fit..

John, I'm like Luke mine fit very well to the hole placement stamped in. Still very tight going in and out. Best, Mark

I would make a template from your tank and cut it out based on that. Then it’s right.
Should be close to factory but it’s easier to template from your tank than adjust once the factory holes are cut.

I don't remember where we got the template from, but McMark had a template to locate the holes and the aftermarket tank i have fit perfectly.

I did assume .....

that was my first mistake, why would the guys that make this stuff know how to do it correctly?

I'm using Bens tank in mine. Fit great using holes cut to measurements I found on here of the factory layout. No oversized cutting.

How different were the locations from the factory stampings?

I centered the factory impressions and went from there. Seemed logical, but what's logical

That is a good question. I don't think even the factory installs have the holes dead center on the sheet metal protrusions.

Back in the 80's when I built my car, I found a wrecked factory six at a body shop and made a template off of that stripped car. Luckily back then i was able to get the tank, lines, hardware and tin over the counter from Porsche. Everything fit perfectly.

Luke,

Check your PM

thanks

They are close to center but not perfect . I know if they are my tanks I send an introduction document up one request. That said the floating is very true each tank and chassis is a little bit different.

McMark always said do not use hole saws - scribe a line and sneak up on it while you can see the relevant tank port behind your internally circumscribed removed metal.

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These are some raw measurement supposedly for the DWD tank, but I think it had the same fidelity as the original:

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The proper hole diameters to scribe:

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The template to be scaled and printed at 8.5" x 11"

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I should have added you sneak up on the line using a carbide burr in a grinder.

On anther note below are a couple of view of the hole for the return line:

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Real Six or Easy Button ? .. RDRUM,,, fast forward ... Got converted back to T-4, repainted and given to my Mom.. Then given to my Son as Grad present. Who Sold it , and now has a 3.2 , converted traditional style .. some where in WA..

Ok boys,
Here is a picture of the fresh paint on #41. This shows clearly what the factory holes where on the 30th car down the production line. I am using the same factory oil tank it was produced with, copper plaiting with BK paint over that.

Best Bob B
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Bob, did your six have a front mount charchol canister ??

Thanks for posting, the holes sure look close to centered on the factory stampings.

I would almost put $5. on the fact ALL of these inner fender panels were stamped from the same set of dies.

Not when I got it

Best Bob B


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