Or . . . wait for it . . . Longer studs?

If running carbs you should run phelonic spacers to keep the fuel from boiling in the float bowls.

Longer studs for carbs is a standard thing

You will need them

Longer studs it is then. Thank you. Longer is, after all, usually better. Strangely I'm not sure where to source longer studs, so help there would be appreciated. Studs on top of the intake runners could be longer too.

I really appreciate all the help from this site!

OK, I deserved that. Funny.

More cleaning, inspection, and beginning of re-assembly. Fascinating the amount of grime accumulated in 6 yrs and 6K miles with what I kept telling myself were "minor oil leaks"....

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Belmetric is always a good 1st choice
https://belmetric.com/studs-and-rods/

Local hardware stores may have them but selection of lengths, thread pitch, and plating is usually very limited.

You are running the shorter version of intake manifolds. You’ll notice how the base is thicker for one stud. You can’t use phenolics without longer studs for the base thickness. Hassle….CB tall intakes have the same thickness for the whole base. Either switch to tall intakes or longer studs. Phenolic spacers really help with the heat soak issue.

[/quote]

Belmetric is always a good 1st choice
https://belmetric.com/studs-and-rods/

Local hardware stores may have them but selection of lengths, thread pitch, and plating is usually very limited.
[/quote]

Appreciate the link for Belmetric. I will be spending money tonight!

Attempts to remove existing intake studs have failed miserably. These are HAM heads, are 6 yrs old, and have about 6K miles on them. I have (of course) tried penetrating oil, and heat, all to no avail and I'm afraid I will pull the threads out of the heads. I am using the "double nut" method (pic below) and I get no movement on the stud.

Is there a special tool that I need to add to my collection of rarely used but significantly useful tools?

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Collet style stud install and removal tools specific to size and thread pitch are the best tool that will not damage threads.

I’ve never had intake studs break when being removed. My guess is they used some Loctite - need more heat! Aluminum is a great
Thermal conductor and moves heat away quickly. Plus the head and fins are helping to radiate the heat away and out of the head. You’ll need a lot of heat - like Oxy-Acetylene or the propane / MAPP gas for a while.

Heat the head around the stud - avoiding the stud or wrap stud with wet cloth to keep it cool. You want the aluminum to expand - not the stud.

These appear to be knockoff of Snap-on / Matco set I’ve used for about 1/3 the price

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Not needed for a Type IV. On a Type I (or 911) engine you have to remove the cylinder heads to install new pushrod (oil drain) tubes, because they are sandwiched between the case and the head. The two-piece spring-loaded tubes allow you to compress the length of the tube, put the new one in place, and then release to let the tube expand into position. (You would crush the old tube to pull it out.)

On the Type IV engine, the tubes just slide straight out of the head and case. The new tube just slides in. The more complex, more expensive tubes (that have an extra seal to leak!) are not needed. That said, there do seem to be some sold for the Type IV, or at least advertised for them.

--DD

Thank you Superhawk996 - which reminds of two different motorcycles. Stud installer & remover kit on order.

I was using MAPP gas, but likely for not long enough. I will try again when the tool arrives.

RTV is 25 cubic inches per lb. How did I know that?

More re-assembly today. The special "X-Ring" O-rings are a PITA, but I feel good about them. They were difficult to install, but I am hopeful that between these O-Rings and the Dow Molykote 55 grease I'll have less leakage at the pushrod tubes. Patience is key here (and bourbon). These X-Rings seem ever so slightly too big on the case-side, so "fenagling" was required.

I am terrible with my new expensive camera, so never mind the out of focus image.

CB Perf cast Al valve covers came with the wrong size adapters so I have to drill and tap one side of them to 8X1.25. That is for another day.

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More heat and cycle it several times around the head ,

I do not like the bolt-on valve covers for our engines. The rocker studs are not the strongest, and the covers put even more stress on them. Plus a lot of people say that they "always leak". The stock stamped-steel covers work well if you put them on correctly.

--DD

The only time mine leaked is when I didn't get the cover on all the way. I've even reused the same cork gaskets before without an issue.

Thats why i asked if he had the heavier 8mm studs and appears they are in the CB kit (see my reply ) that sorts the stud weakness , when I got my alloy covers these studs were missing and got the correct ones on the Samba .
A lot of people say this and that its a matter of doing it right ,cheers.

I finally received the CB Performance bolt on valve covers, but the adapters (that clamp the rocker shaft on one side and the valve cover on the other) or 6mm on one side and 8mm on the other. The studs supplied with the kit are 8mm, and the rocker shaft studs are also 8mm. So I'll have to call CB and try to sort that out. Which sounds demoralizing.

New question: How to hold the crankshaft whilst removing (or installing) the flywheel? I can just zip the flywheel bolts out with an impact driver to remove them, but not sure how to hold the crank whilst installing them to correct torques spec? It's been 6 yrs since I built this engine last and I can't seem to remember what I did?

All help appreciated...

Available for approximately $20 to $25 from your favorite vendors:

https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/UN1201100

BTW a stock valve cover does work well if it's not too banged-up. But, if you have non-stock rocker arms/adjusters, the cast one from CB Performance clears rockers that won't fit in a stock valve cover and with the silicone rubber gaskets, they don't leak.

I'm up the road from you in Crestwood and have one of these if you want to borrow it.

Thank you Eric. I will take you up on that. Will message you when I am that far along.

I have one of those flywheel locks.
I've had it since the mid 80s.
You can make that work on pretty much EVERYTHING!
I didn't use mine on a VW based engine until this year.
You should buy your own!

I've probably locked over 100 different engines with that tool...

Good to know, and sage advice.

I've used a wrench over one of the clutch mounting bolts and over one of the transmission mounting studs. For some reason, the "universal" flywheel lock didn't work that well for me, but it's been long enough ago that I don't remember the reason. (Very possibly user error.)

--DD

Just about ready to go back into the car. I know that many in the garage deride the bolt on cast CB Perf valve covers, but I am going to try them out. Imagine if I had installed my hexbar linkage for the photos! I am hopeful that the "X-ring" pushrod tube seals help. I also replaced gaskets at the oil pump, and still need to replace the RMS. But I am lowering expectations from a "dry Type IV engine" to a "less wet Type IV engine".

I just really dig these little powerplants, and this one has come out great (again).

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Progress has been slow. Many excuses. But very close to engine installation now. In the pic below, there are 4 wires. This is the "over engine" wiring harness that connects to the relay board with the large(ish) multiplug. Two of them go to the coil (and I even know which side of the coil each goes on), but I am not sure about the other two. One is green and red striped, the other is white. One of them is surely for the oil pressure switch. But, I am not sure which one?

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Nicely done!

Really like your "shop"!

Looks cozy and clean.

That top shelf against the wall looks "Damn Interesting".

Lots of "trophies" there...


Have you thought about a "tuna can"?

https://914werke.com/shop/ols/products/mini...p/v/OIL-SMP-ASM

Puppy MIGHT save the engine in high G environment.

As it's super easy to install I consider it a MUST HAVE for these engines in a 914.

I like an AccuSump more but those are 10 times the work and cost of a Tuna Can.

I'd run a tuna can on everything, even if I also had an accusump...

Green/red is oil pressure sender idiot light.

@sdoolin

did anyone every address your question about what appeared to be some
oil seepage from the base of the cylinder at the case? I too am about 5-6k miles from my rebuild 2 years ago and now have a very slow drip leak, and i can trace it to there as well, its not my push rod tubes . i am thinking about pulling the motor to check the torque on the head studs , did you do this? i have heard that we may see some stretch of the head bolts. BTW looks like new, very nice.

Phil

Yeah, there is thousands of dollars worth of "junk" on that top shelf. I have considered a tuna can, but I don't autocross or race this car, and I am worried about a racoon/possum strike. I live in a very rural area.

Thank you Flaca. Anyone know what that white wire is for? The wire appears OE, but the connector does not.

I never heard from anyone about that leakage, so have moved on. I did re-torque the cylinder head nuts, but none of them moved very much at all.

[quote name='sdoolin' date='Mar 11 2024, 06:37 AM' post='3133254
Thank you Flaca. Anyone know what that white wire is for? The wire appears OE, but the connector does not.
[/quote]

The white wire is the power connection for the AAR. It should get +12V any time the fuel pump is running.

--DD

[quote name='Dave_Darling' date='Mar 11 2024, 10:40 PM' post='3133368']
[quote name='sdoolin' date='Mar 11 2024, 06:37 AM' post='3133254
Thank you Flaca. Anyone know what that white wire is for? The wire appears OE, but the connector does not.
[/quote]

The white wire is the power connection for the AAR. It should get +12V any time the fuel pump is running.

--DD
[/quote]

Thank you DD. I am running carbs (love them) so this wire is not needed.

I (finally) have the engine back in the car. I have the heat exchanges and related ducts and heater bits all installed. When I went to install the muffler (it is a Bursch unit), I noticed that things don't line up. The flanges on the muffler are closer together than the flanges on the heat exchangers. This means that the bolt holes on the muffler do not align with the bolt holes on the heat exchangers, they are off by maybe 1/4". I don't remember having this problem the last time I installed the engine.

I am considering loosening the heat exchangers and related bits to give me some "wiggle room" to line up the flanges and bolt holes. I am worried though that this may impair the ability for the heat exchangers to seat solidly and completely in the heads against the copper gaskets?

Anyone else run into this issue? Maybe I have just found an excuse to purchase a new muffler?

Yes, I have seen this and have not gotten to the bottom of it. Must be mis alignment at the heat exchanger/cylinder head connection or bent heat exchangers.

If the difference is about 1 3/4", it would be a mismatch between the muffler type and exchanger type (1.7/8 versus 2.0). But with a 1/4" difference, it's just things going on a little crooked.

This is why we recommend that the entire exhaust is put on the car loosely before you tighten things up.

If you're worried about the seal on the copper gaskets, pull them out and heat them red-hot to anneal them, making them soft again. Once they cool down, re-install everything and only tighten the fasteners once the pieces are on and lined up.

--DD

Thanks DD. Not a mismatch, it was all bolted up and running well previous to this project. I'm going to loosen everything up significantly and give it another shot. The copper gaskets are new, and have been annealed. Learned that from many years of bus ownership.

Yup, enough play in the exhaust pipe connections to the heads to skew the flanges for the muffler by at least 1/4". I try to remember not to tighten the nuts on the head studs until I have the muffler bolted up.

Loosened everything up, removed the heater ducts and flappers and wala - muffler went on easily. I'm sure I had to do the same thing last time around, but obviously have forgotten. Now everything on the underside of the car is buttoned up except for a bit of wiring. Next I move to the topside to re-install fuel lines and carbs. Hoping it is a runner again sometime this weekend.

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Great Picture Looking good !

Nice and clean!

Makes it so much easier to see any leaks.


I'm a believer in Tracer Line oil die (and AC die!).

Glows YELLOW under UV light.

Amazon has multiple options for high power UV light sources.

Yellow lens "blue blocker" glasses help bigtime.

Thanks for the compliments in the cleanliness. But I have bad news. Very frustrating, bad news.

Last night I poured 4 quarts of (expensive) Brad Penn 20W50 into the engine. Did not start it, or even crank it over. This morning I inspected for oil leaks and found (expensive) Bad Penn 20W50 coating the right side of the engine, above and on the side of the oil sump. Not good.

It appears to be leaking (a lot) at the case through bolt between cylinders 3 & 4. There is a pronounced, and obvious "stream" of oil from that bolt. Damnit. I also have oil on the case studs/bolts along the bottom of the oils sump. Damnit again.

So, it all has to come out, and I probably will have to split the cases. Which is a MUCH longer project than I had anticipated.

I have built a few of these engines (probably 5, (I owned several busses)), and have followed "best practices" for sealing the cases (according to Jake Raby's assembly video) but I obviously missed something here.

Damnit.

Post a pic of your leak point please.

Really strange to have a static leak that sounds like it's HIGHER than the oil level should be in the sump.

Just looked at my 73 2.0l case...

I found a possible source of the leak!

The lower bolt for the middle camshaft bearing ALSO holds the pick-up and the clearance for this MIGHT be a leak path.

Doesn't look like a good way to seal it internally. Only solution is to add some type of sealing washer under the fastener...

This will be a 13mm headed bolt lower than and between the two pair of push rod tubes, the sump has a half circle depression depression in it to allow access to this fastener.

All of the other studs and bolts have two flat faces on the case completely surrounding the fasteners so these should be much less prone to leak.

I wouldn't take it apart until I really zeroed in on the leak. The lower cam shaft bearing bore bolts MIGHT be under the oil level...

You might be able to stop this leak with an aluminum crush washer
Another option is AC sealing rings-bunch of sizes, and they are crush rings with an O-ring built into the ID (Most!) or in the case of Late model Ford the OD.

I'd go crush ring, flat washer, blue Loctite on threads or class 4 nut if this spot is running a stud in your car.

Might be easy to fix.

"Diag before repair."

Ninja's second most important rule...

First is "There are always exceptions to the rules, rules are for fools, wise men use good judgement first" .

You're going to need a mirror with all the stuff you have installed to even see this pup.

Removing the exhaust system will give you better access...

My wife bought me one of these as a present. I use the piss out of mine.

https://www.harborfreight.com/35-in-digital...slot-64170.html

Lots of cheaper options available that use a cell phone.

They will probably work equally well for what you need.

Pic below. Hard to get a good picture but you can see (well, I can see) the leak at the center bolt between the 2 push rod tubes. It is "shiny" with oil at that bolt, and there is a washer behind the bolt head.

Agree Ninja, this seems as if it is above what the oil level would be in the sump. Which is both confusing and frustrating.

For sure the engine has to come out. But not sure (yet) if I gotta split the cases.

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I'd first clean all the oil with B12 carb spray and needle tipped blowgun.

Drain oil into clean pan.

Get the suspect area dry.

Have someone else fill it while I watched that spot like a hawk.

I cannot fathom why that should even see oil much less leak profusely by simply filling the sump.

You're running carbs...

My 75 came with a brand-new progressive Weber 2 bbl kit in the center.

No way I'm going to run that IN THE CAR!

I'm keeping it anyways because it is the ultimate "run engine before installation"
solution out there!

I would have run that after I installed tranny and heat exchangers to verify engine before installation.

The crappy little progressive needs little tuning to make it "run".

I will initially be running dual IDFs on the car.

I'll break in the cam, run the engine till warm, set dist timing, get it to the point I'm happy on the progressive.
Allow to cool, recheck head bolt torque and valve adjustment, change oil (if fresh engine) and then install engine and the real carburetors...

You can do the same with the IDFs. They might be a bit more work than the progressive. If they were close before you took them out, they should be still close enough to run for 20 minutes...
All you need is a 12V power source for distributor and starter and a rudimentary fuel system. A gas can and a simple electric fuel pump is my solution but You can probably supply enough fuel for test bed run via a simple gravity feed from the fuel tank. Put it at least two feet higher than the carbs and create a siphon.
I don't suck on the line anymore. I'll put most of the line into the fuel tank, cap my finger tightly over the open end and pull a column of fuel in the line to start the siphon.

This is not enough flow to test under load but just "on the transmission" does NOT allow for load testing anyways.

Wouldn't take much to be able to run that out of the chassis...