The previous owner told us the hell hole and longs had been done and he seemed like an honest car guy. So that was dumb and naive of me. It was clear that a bunch of work had been done around the hell hole, which looked good from the engine bay. When we got it home and on the lift we were faced with a rusted out lower firewall.
Ordered a firewall repair panel.
We pulled the engine today and cut out the lower firewall and it’s pretty ugly.Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
Full Version: Laguna Blue 75 build thread
There was even an epoxied in piece of heavy gage sheet metal in the corner that’s now open under the heater duct.
(
I wanted to add more pictures but was told I exceeded the limit for this post). Need to figure out how to compress iPhone photos. The bottom of the RH long is pretty rusted.
I understand I need to take off the RH door and brace between the upper hinge bracket and the seat belt mount before going after the rust long. I’m trying to figure out the best way to support the chassis on my 4 post lift with a punky long and a rotten firewall.
So that I still have access to repair the long.
Would appreciate suggestions, or links to relevant posts.
(
I wanted to add more pictures but was told I exceeded the limit for this post). Need to figure out how to compress iPhone photos. The bottom of the RH long is pretty rusted.
I understand I need to take off the RH door and brace between the upper hinge bracket and the seat belt mount before going after the rust long. I’m trying to figure out the best way to support the chassis on my 4 post lift with a punky long and a rotten firewall.
So that I still have access to repair the long.
Would appreciate suggestions, or links to relevant posts.
Oh boy! Yeah, there's more to uncover for sure. Oddly, had a 914 with similar rust that was very localized (lucky). Like maybe just that small area sat in something? Was able to patch it up and move along.
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 5 2024, 01:35 PM) 
There was even an epoxied in piece of heavy gage sheet metal in the corner that’s now open under the heater duct.
(
I wanted to add more pictures but was told I exceeded the limit for this post)
Resize your pics to make them smaller. I use MS Paint...
I had to repair the lower firewall also. Rear window was leaking. PIA.
I ended up jacking up the back of the car by the suspension to get it high enough to pull the engine onto the lift.
The RH long was too weak to use as a jack point.
I figured out the photo resizing.
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Here's the engine sitting on the lift.
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Tim
The RH long was too weak to use as a jack point.
I figured out the photo resizing.
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Here's the engine sitting on the lift.
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Tim
Looking for recommendations on putting this back together straight.
If I brace the door opening with a rod, and fix the firewall area and the hole in the pan, could I then support the car under the firewall and again at the transmission mount point by making up a support frame at each location. At that point open up the long to figure out what needed to be replaced?
Tim
If I brace the door opening with a rod, and fix the firewall area and the hole in the pan, could I then support the car under the firewall and again at the transmission mount point by making up a support frame at each location. At that point open up the long to figure out what needed to be replaced?
Tim
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 5 2024, 05:30 PM)
The previous owner told us the hell hole and longs had been done and he seemed like an honest car guy. So that was dumb and naive of me.
I’m laughing with you not at you. Welcome to 914ville.
I’ve come to the conclusion that many peoples definition of fixed is quite different than my own.
You look to be on a good path toward a better fix than epoxy.
Been there - done that
Spend some time reading build threads.
Intro from Montana by Brent Brock who we unfortunately lost this past year. Brents thread is a wealth of information and is heavily documented with photos and funny life events. RIP Brent.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=307290
And bringing out the dead by Jeff hail is an all time classic.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791
My own rustoration is linked in the signature
Many others have walked this path and brought back cars in far worse shape than what you’re dealing with so far.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Jan 6 2024, 10:46 AM)
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 5 2024, 05:30 PM)
The previous owner told us the hell hole and longs had been done and he seemed like an honest car guy. So that was dumb and naive of me.
I’m laughing with you not at you. Welcome to 914ville.
I’ve come to the conclusion that many peoples definition of fixed is quite different than my own.
You look to be on a good path toward a better fix than epoxy.
Been there - done that
Spend some time reading build threads.
Intro from Montana by Brent Brock who we unfortunately lost this past year. Brents thread is a wealth of information and is heavily documented with photos and funny life events. RIP Brent.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=307290
And bringing out the dead by Jeff hail is an all time classic.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=76791
My own rustoration is linked in the signature
Many others have walked this path and brought back cars in far worse shape than what you’re dealing with so far.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
@Superhawk996
Thanks for the response, it’s perfect.
I had already been looking at some of your revival of the dead 914, and your fabrication skills are very impressive. Most people would run from that project (me too), but you took it on as a challenge.
I’ll spend some time looking at these other links.
Tim
Got the car on jack stands and all leveled out using my buddy’s laser level in preparation for probing the passenger side long. There’s a number of areas along the long that have rust holes at or near the bottom.
Working on building and installing 2 door braces for the passenger side before doing anything to the longs.
I was encouraged that the body lines are pretty straight to start with.
Working on building and installing 2 door braces for the passenger side before doing anything to the longs.
I was encouraged that the body lines are pretty straight to start with.
Love the laser - model and make?
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 9 2024, 07:55 PM)
Got the car on jack stands and all leveled out using my buddy’s laser level in preparation for probing the passenger side long. There’s a number of areas along the long that have rust holes at or near the bottom.
Working on building and installing 2 door braces for the passenger side before doing anything to the longs.
I was encouraged that the body lines are pretty straight to start with.
QUOTE(ctc911ctc @ Jan 10 2024, 02:20 PM)
Love the laser - model and make?
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 9 2024, 07:55 PM)
Got the car on jack stands and all leveled out using my buddy’s laser level in preparation for probing the passenger side long. There’s a number of areas along the long that have rust holes at or near the bottom.
Working on building and installing 2 door braces for the passenger side before doing anything to the longs.
I was encouraged that the body lines are pretty straight to start with.
He got it on Amazon, IMAYCO laser level.
Tim
QUOTE(ctc911ctc @ Jan 10 2024, 02:20 PM)
Love the laser - model and make?
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 9 2024, 07:55 PM)
Got the car on jack stands and all leveled out using my buddy’s laser level in preparation for probing the passenger side long. There’s a number of areas along the long that have rust holes at or near the bottom.
Working on building and installing 2 door braces for the passenger side before doing anything to the longs.
I was encouraged that the body lines are pretty straight to start with.
He got it on Amazon, IMAYCO laser level.
Tim
It's been great having this forum to get all the help figuring out how best to save this 914. I've been reading a lot of posts and have some great examples to follow. Plan is to remove the inner rocker panel to expose the extent of the rust damage. Will replace the rocker panel with a new one and aim to fabricate patches for the rest.
My friend Chris and I finished building and installing the door bracing.
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and we drilled out spot welds on the threshold and inner rocker
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once off, we can see solid metal on a lot of the inner long, but the bottom is rusted out
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Tim
My friend Chris and I finished building and installing the door bracing.
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and we drilled out spot welds on the threshold and inner rocker
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once off, we can see solid metal on a lot of the inner long, but the bottom is rusted out
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Tim
Unfortunately, there's hell hole damage to the top of the long/ rocker behind the fender that we can't access, so out comes the air saw to open the fender. the air saw cuts a really narrow kerf, and cuts fast, but I'm no good at following a straight line.
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The aft portion of the long with the bend is rotten at the bottom and there's more damage on the inside we need to get to. Before we destroy the geometry, we fabricated a patch panel by bending, stretching and shrinking metal. My 1st use of the shrinker and stretcher but it's looking pretty decent.
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Tim
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The aft portion of the long with the bend is rotten at the bottom and there's more damage on the inside we need to get to. Before we destroy the geometry, we fabricated a patch panel by bending, stretching and shrinking metal. My 1st use of the shrinker and stretcher but it's looking pretty decent.
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Tim
Picked up this 30" HF sheet metal brake on sale yesterday and mounted it on the wall.
Bent up a short length of 18g sheet into a U as a test. It did fine but I could see the movable jaw deflecting which will only deflect more with wider stock. Thinking about adding more rigidity to this.
Anybody else modified one of these? I still think its a great value at $63.
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Tim
Bent up a short length of 18g sheet into a U as a test. It did fine but I could see the movable jaw deflecting which will only deflect more with wider stock. Thinking about adding more rigidity to this.
Anybody else modified one of these? I still think its a great value at $63.
Click to view attachment
Tim
And you’re off to the races. Glad to see it being opened up and properly done.
On the rear fender - the lack of a straight line cut works in your favor later. Can only go back on the same way vs being able to slide fore/aft.
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Jan 13 2024, 02:59 PM)
And you’re off to the races. Glad to see it being opened up and properly done.
On the rear fender - the lack of a straight line cut works in your favor later. Can only go back on the same way vs being able to slide fore/aft.
Thanks, my RH door gap is a bit tight at the bottom. My braces are turnbuckles, and I ca move the top gap but not the bottom by turning the turnbuckles. In the process of fixing the inner long I’ll be separating the floor from the long and replacing some floor material as needed. To adjust that door gap at the bottom I’ll need to make a cut through the inner long load path. How far across the floor (outboard to inboard) do you think I’d need to cut to soften the structure enough to push the lower door jamb back by 2-3 mm?
Tim
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Jan 13 2024, 02:59 PM)
And you’re off to the races. Glad to see it being opened up and properly done.
On the rear fender - the lack of a straight line cut works in your favor later. Can only go back on the same way vs being able to slide fore/aft.
@Superhawk996
Thanks, my RH door gap is a bit tight at the bottom. My braces are turnbuckles, and I ca move the top gap but not the bottom by turning the turnbuckles. In the process of fixing the inner long I’ll be separating the floor from the long and replacing some floor material as needed. To adjust that door gap at the bottom I’ll need to make a cut through the inner long load path. How far across the floor (outboard to inboard) do you think I’d need to cut to soften the structure enough to push the lower door jamb back by 2-3 mm?
Tim
I would take out the rear portion of the floor before cutting the long load path to adjust door gap. This is assuming that you are going to have to replace a portion of the floor to fix the bulkhead rust damage.
The more material you take out, you’ll be amazed at how it softens up the chassis and lets the turnbuckle door braces move things.
The other thing is the chassis will be stronger if you don’t have two structural panels just being joined by a butt weld. The other thing is the need to account for metal shrink as weld cools. I.e., if you set the door gap perfect, then do the butt weld to rejoin what you’ve cut, you’ll find the gap tightens as the weld cools.
The other thing is that when you start welding in rear bulkhead pieces, you’ll find that weld shrink pulls the long toward the center. That pull may help your door gap situation. The whole chassis will have moved around as the structure rusted and lost stiffness over the years.
The other thing is that on my car, I found part of the lower rear door gap was controlled by the door jamb sill. I had a bit of a fiasco that needs to be repaired in the future because I was holding that gap with silicon bronze and then it moved when I overheated things allowing the silicon bronze to reflow and my gap moved.
Some of this would vary depending on order to remove or install. In unibody construction the parts are all inner related. It’s sort of trial and error, learn as you go - at least it was in my case.
My advice is don’t try to set door gap too early. Keep an eye on it as you do other work. Keep it close to what you want but don’t sweat it too early before you get an idea of how other work moves it around
The more material you take out, you’ll be amazed at how it softens up the chassis and lets the turnbuckle door braces move things.
The other thing is the chassis will be stronger if you don’t have two structural panels just being joined by a butt weld. The other thing is the need to account for metal shrink as weld cools. I.e., if you set the door gap perfect, then do the butt weld to rejoin what you’ve cut, you’ll find the gap tightens as the weld cools.
The other thing is that when you start welding in rear bulkhead pieces, you’ll find that weld shrink pulls the long toward the center. That pull may help your door gap situation. The whole chassis will have moved around as the structure rusted and lost stiffness over the years.
The other thing is that on my car, I found part of the lower rear door gap was controlled by the door jamb sill. I had a bit of a fiasco that needs to be repaired in the future because I was holding that gap with silicon bronze and then it moved when I overheated things allowing the silicon bronze to reflow and my gap moved.
Some of this would vary depending on order to remove or install. In unibody construction the parts are all inner related. It’s sort of trial and error, learn as you go - at least it was in my case.
My advice is don’t try to set door gap too early. Keep an eye on it as you do other work. Keep it close to what you want but don’t sweat it too early before you get an idea of how other work moves it around
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Jan 13 2024, 08:40 PM)
I would take out the rear portion of the floor before cutting the long load path to adjust door gap. This is assuming that you are going to have to replace a portion of the floor to fix the bulkhead rust damage.
The more material you take out, you’ll be amazed at how it softens up the chassis and lets the turnbuckle door braces move things.
The other thing is the chassis will be stronger if you don’t have two structural panels just being joined by a butt weld. The other thing is the need to account for metal shrink as weld cools. I.e., if you set the door gap perfect, then do the butt weld to rejoin what you’ve cut, you’ll find the gap tightens as the weld cools.
The other thing is that when you start welding in rear bulkhead pieces, you’ll find that weld shrink pulls the long toward the center. That pull may help your door gap situation. The whole chassis will have moved around as the structure rusted and lost stiffness over the years.
The other thing is that on my car, I found part of the lower rear door gap was controlled by the door jamb sill. I had a bit of a fiasco that needs to be repaired in the future because I was holding that gap with silicon bronze and then it moved when I overheated things allowing the silicon bronze to reflow and my gap moved.
Some of this would vary depending on order to remove or install. In unibody construction the parts are all inner related. It’s sort of trial and error, learn as you go - at least it was in my case.
My advice is don’t try to set door gap too early. Keep an eye on it as you do other work. Keep it close to what you want but don’t sweat it too early before you get an idea of how other work moves it around
Ok, good input. Thanks!
Tim
The other thing, gotta start proof reading . . . And stop starting every sentence with the phrase “the other thing”.
English was never my favorite class - much rather be in industrial ed class welding!
Keep posting your progress. Love seeing these rusted out cars getting fixed properly instead of cobbled with rivets and epoxy like the old days!
English was never my favorite class - much rather be in industrial ed class welding!
Keep posting your progress. Love seeing these rusted out cars getting fixed properly instead of cobbled with rivets and epoxy like the old days!
We had the car supported at each wheel with jack stands and two support turnbuckles in the RH door frame but that didn't look good enough to start hacking away any more rotten structure on the right side. Added a jack stand under the rear suspension console. Went thru the scrap steel bin and found a section of steel beam, some square tubing from my old Factory Five Cobra rear suspension and a few other bits, to tie the rear transmission mount to the lift bed.
Now we have 3 points of support on the back end or the RH side, which is pretty secure.
Click to view attachment
Up front, I moved my bridge jack under the aft lip of the front wheel well and shimmed some blocks into place, making a total of 5 points on support on the RH side. and 3 on the left.
Click to view attachment
With the chassis stabilized, it was on with the rust surgery. Cut into the front end of outer rocker and lower A post sheet metal. There were more botched repairs up there.
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Received the new inner rocker cover from AA. Planning to use the whole thing except up front where it makes more sense to only replace the rotten bottom section. We have a pretty good idea now what we need to fab up for the inner long welded patch to mate with the inner rocker.
I keep on muttering "Fxcking Bob" as I get deeper into this work of art he sold us. But it's our work of art now and the only way out is to save it.
Tim
Now we have 3 points of support on the back end or the RH side, which is pretty secure.
Click to view attachment
Up front, I moved my bridge jack under the aft lip of the front wheel well and shimmed some blocks into place, making a total of 5 points on support on the RH side. and 3 on the left.
Click to view attachment
With the chassis stabilized, it was on with the rust surgery. Cut into the front end of outer rocker and lower A post sheet metal. There were more botched repairs up there.
Click to view attachment
Received the new inner rocker cover from AA. Planning to use the whole thing except up front where it makes more sense to only replace the rotten bottom section. We have a pretty good idea now what we need to fab up for the inner long welded patch to mate with the inner rocker.
I keep on muttering "Fxcking Bob" as I get deeper into this work of art he sold us. But it's our work of art now and the only way out is to save it.
Tim
Might check out this thread. He's doing it in the dirt!
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=368359
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=368359
QUOTE(technicalninja @ Jan 16 2024, 07:44 PM)
Might check out this thread. He's doing it in the dirt!
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=368359
Thanks for the tip, he is doing great work and taking great pictures along the way.
Tim
Another great thread in the Classic section. Digging into Hell. Worth a look.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748
QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jan 17 2024, 06:55 AM)
Another great thread in the Classic section. Digging into Hell. Worth a look.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748
Thanks, there’s a lot of commonality in rust locations, yet some different creative solutions and approaches to fixing it in these different threads. It’s all good in helping me figure out the best thing for my car, skills and equipment.
Tim
Made some headway on figuring out what needs to be replaced on the right inner long, and how to make the patch panels. The patch panels get bent on the brake to form the lower inboard bend radius. We made a tool to make the joggle for the floor joint and hold the part while we bend the outer flange down at a consistent 70 mm from the inner wall. By adding addition sheet metal strips we could make the deeper joggle for the front section of the long. Used the shrinker to make the curved flange for the forward end.
Once we get the whole straight length of inner long fabricated, will cut it in and butt weld it in place.
One this that's fortunate is the the floor flange is in good shape except right in the hell hole area. Rather than drilling out the spot welds, I ground the inner long down until all I had was the floor flange. I'll be able to spot weld that joint without having to do a bunch of repair and grinding, or welding upside down.
My air grinder is way too slow, so I looked for more ways to use my Dewalt angle grinder. I found grinder shaft extensions on Amazon that allow me to get in with flap disks and cutoff wheels in places I couldn't get to before. I also found an adapter on Ebay that will attach a 1/4"-20 Roloc arbor to the 5/8"-11 grinder. I don't think I be using my air grinder very much going forward. I'm using a full face shield, gloves and using the side handle on the grinder and it's pretty tame to control.
Also cut out an entire section of rotted floor, rotted and previously patched lower forward firewall and jack mount plate. Planning to keep these together while we make up the individual repair pieces.
Tim
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Once we get the whole straight length of inner long fabricated, will cut it in and butt weld it in place.
One this that's fortunate is the the floor flange is in good shape except right in the hell hole area. Rather than drilling out the spot welds, I ground the inner long down until all I had was the floor flange. I'll be able to spot weld that joint without having to do a bunch of repair and grinding, or welding upside down.
My air grinder is way too slow, so I looked for more ways to use my Dewalt angle grinder. I found grinder shaft extensions on Amazon that allow me to get in with flap disks and cutoff wheels in places I couldn't get to before. I also found an adapter on Ebay that will attach a 1/4"-20 Roloc arbor to the 5/8"-11 grinder. I don't think I be using my air grinder very much going forward. I'm using a full face shield, gloves and using the side handle on the grinder and it's pretty tame to control.
Also cut out an entire section of rotted floor, rotted and previously patched lower forward firewall and jack mount plate. Planning to keep these together while we make up the individual repair pieces.
Tim
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QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jan 17 2024, 03:55 AM)
Another great thread in the Classic section. Digging into Hell. Worth a look.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748
This place has a wealth of information. A picture plus a thousand words can work wonders.
Me? I am the world’s worst car buyer. My TR6 required replacement of about half of the sheet metal. Then came the ‘72, with trouble from floor to firewall. Finishing the same old story with the ‘76.
The thing is that I bought the cars thinking that each of them was OK. And then they weren’t OK. I couldn’t sell them because I didn’t want to pass the trouble on to someone else. Also, I didn’t want the cars to go to the crusher, before or after being parted out. So, years of welding ensued. I like welding, so maybe that is fine. This week I have been sewing seats to replace the old upholstery. Such fun!
QUOTE(worn @ Jan 24 2024, 07:56 PM)
QUOTE(hcdmueller @ Jan 17 2024, 03:55 AM)
Another great thread in the Classic section. Digging into Hell. Worth a look.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748
This place has a wealth of information. A picture plus a thousand words can work wonders.
Me? I am the world’s worst car buyer. My TR6 required replacement of about half of the sheet metal. Then came the ‘72, with trouble from floor to firewall. Finishing the same old story with the ‘76.
The thing is that I bought the cars thinking that each of them was OK. And then they weren’t OK. I couldn’t sell them because I didn’t want to pass the trouble on to someone else. Also, I didn’t want the cars to go to the crusher, before or after being parted out. So, years of welding ensued. I like welding, so maybe that is fine. This week I have been sewing seats to replace the old upholstery. Such fun!
I seem to have a learning disability when I comes to buying cars from the 70’s. I bought a “rust free” 1970 Triumph GT6+ on BAT and ended up replacing a bunch of rusty and bondo repaired panels. I’m hoping this one will move forward faster than that did.
Tim
Took a shot at using MDF dies in my 12 ton press to form the corner of the floor rotted out under the hell hole. I wasn't sure if the MDF would be strong enough to stretch the metal in the corner, but it worked.
traced the shape onto paper from the section I'd cut out and made MDF and plywood male and female dies. The female die was bolted into threaded holed in a piece of steel. These screws also went though the sheet metal blank and a clamping piece of plywood to try and keep the flange flat.
Following pics show the setup and the formed blank. I need to trim off the excess material but the flanges didn't distort.
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Tim
traced the shape onto paper from the section I'd cut out and made MDF and plywood male and female dies. The female die was bolted into threaded holed in a piece of steel. These screws also went though the sheet metal blank and a clamping piece of plywood to try and keep the flange flat.
Following pics show the setup and the formed blank. I need to trim off the excess material but the flanges didn't distort.
Click to view attachment
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Tim
Beautiful work! 
You're doing a great job, keep at it and soon enough you will have fun in your 914!
Bests
Antoine
Bests
Antoine
QUOTE(TRS63 @ Jan 30 2024, 03:34 AM)
You're doing a great job, keep at it and soon enough you will have fun in your 914!
Bests
Antoine
Thanks, looking forward to driving this machine.
Tim
QUOTE(Montreal914 @ Jan 28 2024, 12:00 PM)
Beautiful work!
Thanks!
Tim
Made a milestone today. We’ve been doing part and rust removal from this car since we got it. Today I got to actually weld a new piece on. It was a small but therapeutic milestone.
Welded in the floor patch I had fabricated.
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Tim
Welded in the floor patch I had fabricated.
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Tim
Chris made up a tool for the flanged oblong hole in the inner long. He also made up the aft section and we cut the hole and formed the edge. Scribed and cut the long to get the patch pieces matched up for butt welding.
I was happy with how well his part matched up with the original oblong hole.
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I was happy with how well his part matched up with the original oblong hole.
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Starting to make some headway putting some structure back into the car. Chris and I have been cutting out bad metal and fabricating the pieces to replace them. Now we’re starting to get them welded back in. The fabrication work is a fun challenge, but it’s really satisfying to get the parts welded in and to feel the ridigity of the structure improving.
Found more rust in near the right front jack point, so needed to form a patch panel with the press.
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Welded in the interior firewall
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Got the front end of the right side inner long welded in today
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Found more rust in near the right front jack point, so needed to form a patch panel with the press.
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Welded in the interior firewall
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Got the front end of the right side inner long welded in today
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So it’s been 2 months since we started working on repairing the firewall. When we opened it up, we got a 914 awakening that so many people on this forum have been through.
Thank goodness for all you folks on 914 World laying out a roadmap for fixing this.
Well, two months later we fixed enough other stuff that I could weld in the firewall patch panel. Definitely advanced my metal fabrication and forming skills on this car. I’m a better welder that I was, but still need to get better.
It feels like an accomplishment, but there’s still a long road ahead.
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Thank goodness for all you folks on 914 World laying out a roadmap for fixing this.
Well, two months later we fixed enough other stuff that I could weld in the firewall patch panel. Definitely advanced my metal fabrication and forming skills on this car. I’m a better welder that I was, but still need to get better.
It feels like an accomplishment, but there’s still a long road ahead.
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Looking good! Keep up the great work!
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 30 2024, 06:53 PM)
Made a milestone today. We’ve been doing part and rust removal from this car since we got it. Today I got to actually weld a new piece on. It was a small but therapeutic milestone.
Welded in the floor patch I had fabricated.
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Tim
This is badass, Tim. I wish I had your skills to fab up the wood to press out sheet metal parts.
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 5 2024, 02:30 PM)
The previous owner told us the hell hole and longs had been done and he seemed like an honest car guy. So that was dumb and naive of me. It was clear that a bunch of work had been done around the hell hole, which looked good from the engine bay. When we got it home and on the lift we were faced with a rusted out lower firewall.
Ordered a firewall repair panel.
We pulled the engine today and cut out the lower firewall and it’s pretty ugly.Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
looks like you are cutting into virgin territory!
QUOTE(friethmiller @ Mar 5 2024, 06:02 PM)
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 30 2024, 06:53 PM)
Made a milestone today. We’ve been doing part and rust removal from this car since we got it. Today I got to actually weld a new piece on. It was a small but therapeutic milestone.
Welded in the floor patch I had fabricated.
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Tim
This is badass, Tim. I wish I had your skills to fab up the wood to press out sheet metal parts.
@friethmiller
From what I’ve seen of your restoration effort, you’re just one HF hydraulic press away from forming your own parts. I’ve been going to school on your posts.
Tim
QUOTE(dr914@autoatlanta.com @ Mar 5 2024, 06:32 PM)
QUOTE(Tim17 @ Jan 5 2024, 02:30 PM)
The previous owner told us the hell hole and longs had been done and he seemed like an honest car guy. So that was dumb and naive of me. It was clear that a bunch of work had been done around the hell hole, which looked good from the engine bay. When we got it home and on the lift we were faced with a rusted out lower firewall.
Ordered a firewall repair panel.
We pulled the engine today and cut out the lower firewall and it’s pretty ugly.Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment
looks like you are cutting into virgin territory!
@dr914 I didn’t understand what you meant by that. Surely nothing you haven’t seen before.
Tim
Making good headway on the repairs on the right side. Got the inner long repaired, and rebuilt the front corner of the long by the A pillar. Fabricated the inner and outer skin of the outer long ahead of the suspension console. Reinstalled the heater piping and welded in the outer skin of the long.
Next up is finishing welding in the newly fabricated parts and a whole bunch of grinding.
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Next up is finishing welding in the newly fabricated parts and a whole bunch of grinding.
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Nice work Tim!
QUOTE(Graydingo @ Mar 17 2024, 08:27 AM)
Nice work Tim!
Thanks Duane
Got the rear long panels all welded up and installed the jack pad and seam sealed it.
Addressed rusty portion of the fender panel before tack welding it into place. Door gap was tight when we started, but really tightened up more after all the welding on the long even with the door braces. Had some good input earlier from @Superhawk996 to wait to address this.
With the fender tacked in solidly, went to work on the door gap and got that looking pretty good, by slitting the fender and repositioning the door frame edge and tacking it.
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It feels good to have the major structural repairs done and to have the door closing ok and restoring the door gap.
Addressed rusty portion of the fender panel before tack welding it into place. Door gap was tight when we started, but really tightened up more after all the welding on the long even with the door braces. Had some good input earlier from @Superhawk996 to wait to address this.
With the fender tacked in solidly, went to work on the door gap and got that looking pretty good, by slitting the fender and repositioning the door frame edge and tacking it.
Click to view attachment
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It feels good to have the major structural repairs done and to have the door closing ok and restoring the door gap.
If I wasn’t so attached to doing things the hard way, I would have cut my rear quarter in order to better control the gap.
Looking really nice!
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