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Biggles
Hi all

I had to take the temp sensor electrical connector off my 3.2, and it snapped in half ! Any ideas how to repair this in situ without getting a whole new loom ? Can the wires be cut and a new plastic fitting be soucred and connected?

Cheers

Chris
Superhawk996
Get a new connector (or used).

De-pin yours (correct de-pin tools can probably be had on Amazon)

Insert your pins into the new connector

- OR -

The old JB weld solution as a short term fallback if done carefully. Use quick set or their specialized plastics formula.

I would avoid cut & splice if at all possible.
Biggles
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Feb 25 2024, 07:08 PM) *

Get a new connector (or used).

De-pin yours (correct de-pin tools can probably be had on Amazon)

Insert your pins into the new connector

- OR -

The old JB weld solution as a short term fallback if done carefully. Use quick set or their specialized plastics formula.

I would avoid cut & splice if at all possible.



Thanks for your reply. I didnt know a de-pin tool was a thing! I'll go down this route as it seems more robust than a plastic repair (always a tricky material to bond i've found).

Next question...anyone out there got a spare temp. sensor connector they dont need?

Cheers.
Superhawk996
The trick is knowing which de-pin tool to use for a particular connector.

If you buy a used donor - you can use that to figure out how to de-pin yours so you’re not learning on yours with limited access in the vehicle.

Click to view attachment

Google is your friend - then trial and error.

I’ve done it a lot and can usually come up with the right tool and process in 5-10 minutes for the 1st one. Subsequent pins only take seconds once you know how to release them.

Other option is find a good automotive electric shop - they will have tools and knowledge to re-pin it pretty quickly. They might have a source for obtaining new connector housing too?

Note: the $7 version of these tools are pretty cheesy (soft metal) they will get the job done once or twice but they eventually break / fatigue. The more expensive kits will have steel or titanium working surfaces.
Biggles
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Feb 25 2024, 07:29 PM) *

The trick is knowing which de-pin tool to use for a particular connector.

If you buy a used donor - you can use that to figure out how to de-pin yours so you’re not learning on yours with limited access in the vehicle.

Click to view attachment

Google is your friend - then trial and error.

I’ve done it a lot and can usually come up with the right tool and process in 5-10 minutes for the 1st one. Subsequent pins only take seconds once you know how to release them.

Other option is find a good automotive electric shop - they will have tools and knowledge to re-pin it pretty quickly. They might have a source for obtaining new connector housing too?

Note: the $7 version of these tools are pretty cheesy (soft metal) they will get the job done once or twice but they eventually break / fatigue. The more expensive kits will have steel or titanium working surfaces.


Ok thanks. Lots of options !
On closer inspection it looks like the connector is molded onto the two pins? Maybe glue is my option?
Superhawk996
What does back side look like?

Molded in pins are pretty rare but I have never dealt with that particular connector.

That plastic looks like it is probably thermoplastic (like ABS) so it would likely bond / glue OK. The trick will be using only enough glue to bond but not getting it into the mating surfaces.
Superhawk996
Oh -

Is backside molded in too? Does this terminate at the temp sensor? What is the zip tie holding together?

Click to view attachment

Man - I feel your pain now. The more I look at that end, it doesn’t seem to be serviceable unless that zip tie is holding on some sort of cover that allows access to back side of pins. Even then that is a lot of distance from back of connector to front of pin and doesn’t look like the usual type of pins I’m used to.

Lots of post and words to not be of much help to you. headbang.gif
87m491
QUOTE(Biggles @ Feb 25 2024, 10:29 AM) *

Hi all

I had to take the temp sensor electrical connector off my 3.2, and it snapped in half ! Any ideas how to repair this in situ without getting a whole new loom ? Can the wires be cut and a new plastic fitting be soucred and connected?

Cheers

Chris


Just put the 2 halves together, but not in the bracket holder, and heat shrink the connector together with appropriate sized heat shrink.
Biggles
QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Feb 25 2024, 07:51 PM) *

Oh -

Is backside molded in too? Does this terminate at the temp sensor? What is the zip tie holding together?

Click to view attachment

Man - I feel your pain now. The more I look at that end, it doesn’t seem to be serviceable unless that zip tie is holding on some sort of cover that allows access to back side of pins. Even then that is a lot of distance from back of connector to front of pin and doesn’t look like the usual type of pins I’m used to.

Lots of post and words to not be of much help to you. headbang.gif


Yes, the plug connector is moulded onto the metal terminals - crazy but guess Porsche weren't thinking too far ahead! Its heat soak which has done it.
No worries, thanks for the ideas. I think @87m491 has the solution that'll work best for me.
Biggles
QUOTE(Biggles @ Feb 26 2024, 02:58 PM) *

QUOTE(Superhawk996 @ Feb 25 2024, 07:51 PM) *

Oh -

Is backside molded in too? Does this terminate at the temp sensor? What is the zip tie holding together?

Click to view attachment

Man - I feel your pain now. The more I look at that end, it doesn’t seem to be serviceable unless that zip tie is holding on some sort of cover that allows access to back side of pins. Even then that is a lot of distance from back of connector to front of pin and doesn’t look like the usual type of pins I’m used to.

Lots of post and words to not be of much help to you. headbang.gif


Yes, the plug connector is moulded onto the metal terminals - crazy but guess Porsche weren't thinking too far ahead! Its heat soak which has done it.
No worries, thanks for the ideas. I think @87m491 has the solution that'll work best for me.

mepstein
Just by a new sensor.
Biggles
QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 26 2024, 03:02 PM) *

Just by a new sensor.


At £100+ , when all the rest is fine, no thanks!.
ClayPerrine
QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 26 2024, 09:02 AM) *

Just by a new sensor.

agree.gif

This is a critical item for your car. Without it, the engine won't run. Don't do a halfway job and try to fix this.

Look at it this way, how much does it cost to have your car towed home? Make sure to include the time lost sitting on the side of the road waiting for the truck to show up, and your wife's good will too.

That 100 Pounds might be a LOT cheaper when you actually factor in all the other items.
mepstein
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Feb 26 2024, 01:30 PM) *

QUOTE(mepstein @ Feb 26 2024, 09:02 AM) *

Just by a new sensor.

agree.gif

This is a critical item for your car. Without it, the engine won't run. Don't do a halfway job and try to fix this.

Look at it this way, how much does it cost to have your car towed home? Make sure to include the time lost sitting on the side of the road waiting for the truck to show up, and your wife's good will too.

That 100 Pounds might be a LOT cheaper when you actually factor in all the other items.

We see sensors as consumable items and always replace them during rebuilds for the reasons Clay stated. It’s not just the plastic connections that break. The wires and housing wear out, time out and beak down.
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