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SKL1
This may be in a thread somewhere but I've never been good with the search function, if so, please supply a link. Otherwise, here goes...

Finally installing a pass side mirror and will be taking off the door card, etc. I assume I'll want to drill a small pilot hole from the inside through the nut so the holes are in the right place.

Any other suggestions so as to not "hurt" a perfectly good door and paint job??

TIA.
slowrodent
Not claiming it's the best way, but I drilled mine from the outside (small bit at first) after carefully measuring the driver's door mirror location.... It was right where I expected it to be..
Ishley
I drilled mine from the inside using a vix bit... this will center a small hole right in the middle of the nuts. Then I threaded a bolt up thru the nut from the inside and used a small bit in a dremel to clean up the hole. The bolt will help to reduce damage to the thread. Mask the out side first. Go slow and get a perfect set of holes.... right where they need to be.
burton73
@SKL1

If you go to Google it is easy to find. There search Eng. Is much better than what is on the world site and easer to use.

It even has AI now

Best Bob b
Click to view attachment
Shivers
I found this:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2870179
SKL1
Thanks guys. Got the new mirror today from SMC and it didn't have the chrome screws!! Not exactly an every day item you'd find at Ace!!
Front yard mechanic
Just do from the outside no need to remove the door panel. A simple measurement from the drivers door with an 1/8” inch bit, then enlarge it to fit just remember don’t install the mirror upside down alfred.gif
iankarr
QUOTE(SKL1 @ Jun 7 2024, 08:19 PM) *

Thanks guys. Got the new mirror today from SMC and it didn't have the chrome screws!! Not exactly an every day item you'd find at Ace!!


You’ll want stainless steel screws, which shouldn’t be too hard to find. It’s an M6x1.0 Philips oval head. Don’t forget the rubber base smile.gif

Click to view attachment
Chris914n6
Actually you can find these screws at Ace/Lowes/HD. They are not that special.

BillC
QUOTE(burton73 @ Jun 7 2024, 02:10 PM) *

@SKL1

If you go to Google it is easy to find. There search Eng. Is much better than what is on the world site and easer to use.

It even has AI now

Best Bob b
Click to view attachment

You need to be very careful with trusting AI results -- a lot of them will "hallucinate" and make up stuff, like this one did. There are no "two nuts" on the inside, just a single nutplate with two holes. And, there's no room to use a punch and a hammer, at least not without removing the center post and fixed triangular window.

QUOTE(Shivers @ Jun 7 2024, 02:17 PM) *

Good find! biggrin.gif
That's what I was going to post, but you saved me the hassle of looking it up.
ClayPerrine
I have done this without removing the window or the window track.

I carefully taped over the spot on the door where the mirror would mount with blue painters tape. Then I used a 6mm automatic center punch. I put it inside the nut plate and pushed on it until it clicked. That dimples the metal outward on the outside of the door. I then carefully reversed the dimple with a punch, and used a drill with a 7mm drill bit to carefully drill out the mirror mounting holes.

Then just touch up the paint so it doesn't rust, remove the blue painter's tape, and mount the mirror.
technicalninja
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jun 8 2024, 07:14 PM) *

I have done this without removing the window or the window track.

I carefully taped over the spot on the door where the mirror would mount with blue painters tape. Then I used a 6mm automatic center punch. I put it inside the nut plate and pushed on it until it clicked. That dimples the metal outward on the outside of the door. I then carefully reversed the dimple with a punch, and used a drill with a 7mm drill bit to carefully drill out the mirror mounting holes.

Then just touch up the paint so it doesn't rust, remove the blue painter's tape, and mount the mirror.

@ClayPerrine
You have a spring-loaded center punch that has a 6mm shank like a high end "transfer" punch?
That's FREAKING cool!
I want a set!
6/8/10/12 would work great!

This is "The Way" for centering holes for this process.

I was planning on making a "center-punch mandrel" out of a 6X1 bolt.
machine the end of it to create a little protrusion in the center and then screw it into the nut-plate from the inside until you can apply pressure to the skin and lightly tap the outside with a dowel/hammer to make the centering mark.

Having the perfectly sized auto punch would make that much easier!
930cabman
I did mine last year in an original paint door, it took me a couple weeks to get the guts, but worked perfect
ClayPerrine
QUOTE(technicalninja @ Jun 8 2024, 08:50 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jun 8 2024, 07:14 PM) *

I have done this without removing the window or the window track.

I carefully taped over the spot on the door where the mirror would mount with blue painters tape. Then I used a 6mm automatic center punch. I put it inside the nut plate and pushed on it until it clicked. That dimples the metal outward on the outside of the door. I then carefully reversed the dimple with a punch, and used a drill with a 7mm drill bit to carefully drill out the mirror mounting holes.

Then just touch up the paint so it doesn't rust, remove the blue painter's tape, and mount the mirror.

@ClayPerrine
You have a spring-loaded center punch that has a 6mm shank like a high end "transfer" punch?
That's FREAKING cool!
I want a set!
6/8/10/12 would work great!

This is "The Way" for centering holes for this process.

I was planning on making a "center-punch mandrel" out of a 6X1 bolt.
machine the end of it to create a little protrusion in the center and then screw it into the nut-plate from the inside until you can apply pressure to the skin and lightly tap the outside with a dowel/hammer to make the centering mark.

Having the perfectly sized auto punch would make that much easier!


I actually made it from a 6mm transfer punch and an automatic center punch. I just turned down the cheap Harbor Freight transfer punch to have the same threaded end as the point on the automatic center punch.


biggrin.gif
technicalninja
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jun 9 2024, 06:33 AM) *


I actually made it from a 6mm transfer punch and an automatic center punch. I just turned down the cheap Harbor Freight transfer punch to have the same threaded end as the point on the automatic center punch.


biggrin.gif


That, gentlemen, is the difference between a journeyman and a Master in my book!

When you just automatically build your own tools rather than borrowing/buying is the point you're better than 99% of the critters wrenching...

first.gif

I'd never seen a "transfer punch/center punch" combo before and I've seen MOST of what is available.

Yep, Clay just built it.

Exactly like a Master would...
Shivers
QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jun 9 2024, 04:33 AM) *

QUOTE(technicalninja @ Jun 8 2024, 08:50 PM) *

QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jun 8 2024, 07:14 PM) *

I have done this without removing the window or the window track.

I carefully taped over the spot on the door where the mirror would mount with blue painters tape. Then I used a 6mm automatic center punch. I put it inside the nut plate and pushed on it until it clicked. That dimples the metal outward on the outside of the door. I then carefully reversed the dimple with a punch, and used a drill with a 7mm drill bit to carefully drill out the mirror mounting holes.

Then just touch up the paint so it doesn't rust, remove the blue painter's tape, and mount the mirror.

@ClayPerrine
You have a spring-loaded center punch that has a 6mm shank like a high end "transfer" punch?
That's FREAKING cool!
I want a set!
6/8/10/12 would work great!

This is "The Way" for centering holes for this process.

I was planning on making a "center-punch mandrel" out of a 6X1 bolt.
machine the end of it to create a little protrusion in the center and then screw it into the nut-plate from the inside until you can apply pressure to the skin and lightly tap the outside with a dowel/hammer to make the centering mark.

Having the perfectly sized auto punch would make that much easier!


I actually made it from a 6mm transfer punch and an automatic center punch. I just turned down the cheap Harbor Freight transfer punch to have the same threaded end as the point on the automatic center punch.


biggrin.gif


Ha, good idea. I'm going to file that away
SKL1
QUOTE(930cabman @ Jun 9 2024, 04:30 AM) *

I did mine last year in an original paint door, it took me a couple weeks to get the guts, but worked perfect


It's taken 53 years for me to get the guts to do it...



(Clay- thanks- great suggestions...)
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