gettin the stuff togather for the winter project....just wondering is there any special stuff that should be done to the motor before installing???

I'm getting a 3.0 ready to install also, so I'll be watching this thread. My plan is to :
1. Upgrade the timing chain ramps and tensioners (not sure which ones yet).
2. Take a close look at chains, sprockets, etc. while covers are off.
3. Pull valve covers and check for broken studs....adjust valves.
4. Remove FI and replace hoses and intake boots.
5. Remove shrouds and clean cooling fins and block.
6. Get alternator rebuilt and replace belt.
7. Get oil cooler tanked and cleaned after the welding on the 90 degree pipe.
8. Repaint shrouding and detail everything.
9. Replace exhaust studs.
10. Modify turbo valve covers for clearance.
While in the process of all the above, I'll check all connectors and fasteners and replace as necessary. I'm probably missing something important...it will be interesting to see what others come up with.

Adjust the valves and then recheck them! It will never be that easy again.

Check and recheck your alternator and connections.

Get your oiler cooler mods done ahead of time. Randy, don't use the oil cooler from the 2.4. It is a small inlet, go with the big inlet cooler from the 3.0.

Yeah, adjust the valves before the engine is installed and if you have turbo valve covers, get those end fins machined down a little.

Dan your imaginary friend must have forgotten my name....... i've never been called Randy before..

What is the consensus of the updated Camshaft Oil Line Restrictors

Worth it or waste of money?

Seems like this would be the time to do this

QUOTE (echocanyons @ Sep 20 2005, 02:11 PM)

What is the consensus of the updated Camshaft Oil Line Restrictors Worth it or waste of money?

not enough money for it to be wasteful.

i did it to my 2,2 and figure it got me at least another year of service.

i donno about using them on a fresh engine, although the factory did. but by the time the factory did, cam boxes had 4 bearings. (i guess that was co-incident with the 3,0 so if you have one of those or newer, there's your answer...)

i'll probably use them on the 2,7 - thanks for reminding me :-)

i'd probably use them - especially with a synthetic oil. definitely if you have hot oil pressure issues, or too-hot oil in general. or spend a lot of time on the track.

if you have an uprated oil pump - i donno. now we're getting into uncharted territory again...

One suggestion.

Put a new belt on it before you put it in the car and save yourself a headache if an old one fails with the engine in the car.










just my $0.02

QUOTE (echocanyons @ Sep 20 2005, 10:11 AM)

What is the consensus of the updated Camshaft Oil Line Restrictors Worth it or waste of money? Seems like this would be the time to do this

I dunno, the factory seemed to think it was a gud idea.
Better check with the Captian to see if they were right

any more ideas......from the six guys

QUOTE (pete-stevers @ Sep 22 2005, 10:56 AM)

any more ideas......from the six guys

Beats me Randy... I'm learning from your thread.

Here's a

QUOTE (pete-stevers @ Sep 20 2005, 09:54 AM)

Dan your imaginary friend must have forgotten  my name.......  i've never been called Randy before..

Randy is Goose2 on the club. He asked a question, but the same goes for you on the cooler thing. Use yours, don't step down to a stock 914-6 cooler. Keep the one you have an mod it to work.

Oh yeah, other than my imaginary friend thinks you have problems, he also says you shouldn't bother with the 915 trans until a later date. The 901 should be just fine with a stock 3.0. Plus you'll just need to buy a flywheel now.

It's up to you, but my imaginary friend thinks it would be best. I gotta go, he says it's time for a break. Pushy bastard that he is.

QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Sep 20 2005, 10:18 AM)

QUOTE (echocanyons @ Sep 20 2005, 02:11 PM) What is the consensus of the updated Camshaft Oil Line Restrictors Worth it or waste of money? not enough money for it to be wasteful. i did it to my 2,2 and figure it got me at least another year of service. i donno about using them on a fresh engine, although the factory did. but by the time the factory did, cam boxes had 4 bearings. (i guess that was co-incident with the 3,0 so if you have one of those or newer, there's your answer...) i'll probably use them on the 2,7 - thanks for reminding me :-) i'd probably use them - especially with a synthetic oil. definitely if you have hot oil pressure issues, or too-hot oil in general. or spend a lot of time on the track. if you have an uprated oil pump - i donno. now we're getting into uncharted territory again...

I have tried to order / located these so call restrictors at a Porsche dealer.. they had no idea what I was talking about.
Then some one made a reference to them form the shop..
The parts tech and I spent 1/2 looking through the parts listing...never did find them.

So, can you 'PLEASE' provide me an factory part number for these restrictors?

Thanks youuuuu

QUOTE (0396 @ Sep 22 2005, 06:11 PM)

So, can you 'PLEASE' provide me an factory part number for these restrictors?

but of course.

i got mine from Pelican. you'll also need 3 new crush rings per side, and the ones they recommend may or may not be the right ones...

901.105.361.01

ETKA calls this an "intermediate piece"

it will have a circumfrential groove around the hex to indicate it is the new part.

QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Sep 22 2005, 02:20 PM)

QUOTE (0396 @ Sep 22 2005, 06:11 PM) So, can you 'PLEASE' provide me an factory part number for these restrictors? but of course. i got mine from Pelican. you'll also need 3 new crush rings per side, and the ones they recommend may or may not be the right ones... 901.105.361.01 ETKA calls this an "intermediate piece" it will have a circumfrential groove around the hex to indicate it is the new part.

Thank you!

The "restrictor" is now the only part they carry. Found that out when I went lookin' for them at the dealer.
Makes things simple, eh?

the original style is .00 the upgraded is. 01

This may be so obvious as to not need mentioning, but I'll mention it anyway...

Be sure to cut a hatch in the firewall right in front of the fan so that you can get at the front of the engine to set ignition timing, fan belt changes, etc..

Make it about as wide as the flat part of the "hump" between the seats and about 10" high. Make a cover out of aluminum or something and be sure it fits pretty well (to keep out fumes and such).

The back pad covers it up and you'll never know it's there until you need it, but when you do...

Another thing I did was to cut the top of the fibreglass fan shroud to make a removable piece so I can get to the back of the alternator. My alt. failed once and it's pretty much impossible to get out with the engine in the car unless you can remove the top of the shroud.

The pic isn't great, but you get the idea. I made a lip out of thin aluminum that closes the gap on the inside and small clips on the outside. The bolts on the fan housing hold it in place.

The more I can do without pulling the motor the better, I figure... (Lazy bastard theory at work, here.)

Here's another pic...

Here's one of the firewall hatch...

Sorry to be so long winded, here. Hope it makes sense.

QUOTE (Mugs914 @ Sep 23 2005, 08:27 AM)

Be sure to cut a hatch in the firewall right in front of the fan so that you can get at the front of the engine to set ignition timing, fan belt changes, etc..

Well, Captn'?
We need a rant to start off the morning....lemme help:
"YOU GONNA DIE !!!"

Mike as long as you're takin pictures , wwhat mods did you do to the trunk wall to fit the CIS?
Just covering all the bases

Have camera, will travel...

A little too big, I guess but the extra access comes in handy. There is molding that goes on the edges, but it needed replacing and I haven't done it yet.

Roof fits with no problems, by the way.

Thanks Mike,
the one I did I used another trunk piece and hammered I mean formed a bulge in it ,
and made it removable. relocated the engine lid latch to the right side.
Shoulda took pictures of alot of things over the years

J P Stein Posted on Sep 23 2005, 08:33 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QUOTE (Mugs914 @ Sep 23 2005, 08:27 AM)


Be sure to cut a hatch in the firewall right in front of the fan so that you can get at the front of the engine to set ignition timing, fan belt changes, etc..


Well, Captn'?
We need a rant to start off the morning....lemme help:
"YOU GONNA DIE !!!"



This caught my eye too, JP. (Wish I knew how this quote thingy worked)

Allow me to start the rant.

Let's see......it's called a firewall.....hmmmm.......to keep out...... !!!FIRE!!!.
A few of us would never do this.
Unless your good at unbuckeling when unconscious, and can crawl out of an upside down car on fire....really fast. Big holes in fire wall, big bad. At the very least if I needed a hole that large in the fire wall, I'd use something very fire resistant, like steel. Very well fastened.

It's always fun right up to the part where you die. I'd rather have as many odds in my favor as I can. I need all the help I can get. Dropping the motor is more fun than dying.

I'm done. I hope no one is offended.

So Mike....it's ok to mount an Optima on it's side?

QUOTE (goose2 @ Sep 23 2005, 01:07 PM)

So Mike....it's ok to mount an Optima on it's side?

Im not mike - but i stayed at a holiday inn last night

upside down.... if you want too

no liquid, they are a gell cell, and are sealed

i'm not Mike, but yes; any position you like.

Jeff(sixnotfour) - How did Mike's old 914-6 keep everything uncut then? I remember turning the fuel dist 180 I think and you welded the latch to the other side. I think with those two mods, everything fit under hood with no holes cut anywhere. I should have taken pictures of that car.

Thanks Mikes and non-Mikes alike:D ............and I was told that there's some Pelican info somewhere on making the CIS fit without cutting. Haven't searched for it yet but it sounds worth thinking about.

Mark your flywheel for timing and valve adjustments, use some reflective paint so they show up nicely with the timing light.

-Justin

Dan,I didn't say it had to be done, for every application
That system didnt have any of the warm up features like the later 2.7 -3.0 CIS.

Its tight , just depends on how much access you want , need , think you need , Or whatever , best to see all possiblities first hand, then choose from there, its all been done before , many different ways.

Ah, that must have been it then. It was a clean install either way. I thought the cold start stuff was even added at a later date. Can't remember.

I cut it after Mike blew all the oil out the breather , because when he put the motor in
He couldnt see were to hook it up ,and hooked it up wrong.
So after I rebuilt the motor again (rod bearing,no oil) , I cut the trunk put the later injection on
And then he sold it .TG wasn't that about 6 years ago

I think some lower the motor for a bit more clearance , With a cross bar it makes the bar ends to low.

QUOTE (drgchapman @ Sep 23 2005, 09:33 AM)

I'm done.  I hope no one is offended.

Gary:
You hit the quote button. The verbage goes into a different screen in the reply section. then remove the excess drivel.

You must realize by now that I'm not easily offended

My post was tongue in cheek. The reactions over the years to the "Death Holes" has been uniform from some folks. I have a hole in my firewall that has a 1/16 aluminum cover over it......I'm gonna die too !!
I also have no back window and a fully screened engine lid.....double dead!!

The deal is that long before a fire melts thru the aluminum, anything attached to the firewall will burst into flames....the paint, glue, rubber, & backpad assy will be sufficient fuel to fry your ass if you don't get out.

see your bump and raise .....I don't why a removable port in the firewall couldn't be made just as fire resistant as solid metal. But.....removing the seats and backpad is a chore too, if you have a stock interior.