So I got me a second 914, to drive while I finish restoring the "keeper". But it has dual webber 40's with issues.. It doesn't like to idle, and if I spray carb cleaner into some of the venturies it idles better, others not. Should I just pull them and rebuild them? Turning the adjustment screws doesn't seem to make much difference.

I'm trying to acertain whether or not it has the stock cam, if it does I'll probably go back to fuel injection.

The quickest way to get it working would be to swap an LT1 in there.


Andrew

the Weber's will work nicely on your motor.

clean the idle jets first.

change the fuel filter and clean the fuel inlet screens.

Make sure you know what the adjusting screws do before you start tweaking them

Do you need help?


KT

QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 2 2005, 07:13 PM)

Should I just pull them and rebuild them?

rebuilding isn't too hard or expensive. then at least you *know* they're good. then syncronize, then adjust ...

also, make sure the linkage is tight ...
Andy

Those IDF's are notorious for clogged idle jets. Once you get new filters and get them good and cleaned out, they will tend to stay that way. But that can take a while.

Thanks for the info.. The PO says he has the haynes book for the carbs, so once I get that I should be ok.. It really roars at high RPM, it's just hosed at idle, so it sounds like clearing out the crud may help me.

The linkage is the sucky part.. it.. sucks! It has these two flimsy "L" brakets coming off the bottoms of the air cleaners, with a rod in between them. The geometry is so bad that the gas pedal is quite hard to push even with a new cable. I had to swap in the rebuilt pedal cluster I had ready for the LT1 because the throttle pivot thingie had come loose from the shaft at the braze.

Maybe I should just toss the LT1 in there.. for now.

It's gonna be a nice driver, methinks. I went over the underside with a fine toothed comb and didn't find any rust. Unfortunately, the body is another story.

I was sure I'd have gotten a TTIWWP by now.. but here's some pics anyways.

QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 2 2005, 10:22 PM)

It's gonna be a nice driver, methinks. I went over the underside with a fine toothed comb and didn't find any rust. Unfortunately, the body is another story. I was sure I'd have gotten a TTIWWP by now.. but here's some pics anyways.

Sleepin at the switch....

Ouch! That ain't gonna rub out.

QUOTE (Gint @ Oct 2 2005, 09:30 PM)

Ouch! That ain't gonna rub out.

Yup, but I've got a plasma cutter and a welder and I'm not afraid to use em.

Probably better this way, if it was minor I might try and do spot patches and the rust would just come back. This forces me to just cut it all out and weld in good steel.

PURPLE is faster than Yellow.

QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 2 2005, 08:13 PM)

It doesn't like to idle, and if I spray carb cleaner into some of the venturies it idles better, others not. Should I just pull them and rebuild them? Turning the adjustment screws doesn't seem to make much difference.

Rebuilding the carbs is an easy task you can do in one evening. Go slow and stay organized. Pull both carbs, but just dismantle one of them, so you can refer to the other if you need to.

But before you do that, as others have said, pull the idle jets and use compressed air to clear them. Spray your cleaner into the screw holes. Also, remove all 4 of the fuel/air adjustment screws (refer to the manual). Clean them and make sure a PO hasn't bent them. Gently seat them and screw out 2.5 turns. Then use the manual for adjustment procedures.

Sounds like your linkage may need to be upgraded. Do you have a pic of it?

That's some nasty looking rust!

It's POIPLE!

Over GREEN!

BAH! It looks like a perfect candidate for a Chalon

QUOTE (Joseph Mills @ Oct 2 2005, 10:33 PM)

Sounds like your linkage may need to be upgraded. Do you have a pic of it?

Linkage pics!

Another:

that linkage is laughable....look at the angle that throttle cable makes with the linkage

Here's the engine number.. any ideas what I've got? The PO thought it was a 1.8, but then it's been rebuilt, so who knows.

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 3 2005, 07:36 PM)

that linkage is laughable....look at the angle that throttle cable makes with the linkage

Yeah, and the gas pedal is super stiff, even with a new throttle cable and rebuilt pedal cluster.

oh shit!

what's that crack....Z could give that crack a run for it's money, but isnt that like on the block?

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 3 2005, 07:42 PM)

oh shit! what's that crack....Z could give that crack a run for it's money, but isnt that like on the block?

It's not a crack, it's just some overhanging casting flashing that's making a shadow because of the flash (took the pics like 30 mins ago.. it was dark)

oh

okay!


now about that A4000T .......

QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Oct 2 2005, 11:33 PM)

BAH! It looks like a perfect candidate for a Chalon

LMFAO....

you need to clean my laptop screen now

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 3 2005, 07:45 PM)

now about that A4000T .......

...and about that $500 ....

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Oct 3 2005, 07:46 PM)

QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Oct 2 2005, 11:33 PM) BAH!  It looks like a perfect candidate for a Chalon  :lol2:  :lol2: LMFAO.... you need to clean my laptop screen now

Actually.. some bontempi flares would solve a good chunk of this..

QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 3 2005, 07:52 PM)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Oct 3 2005, 07:46 PM) QUOTE (TonyAKAVW @ Oct 2 2005, 11:33 PM) BAH!  It looks like a perfect candidate for a Chalon  :lol2:  :lol2: LMFAO.... you need to clean my laptop screen now Actually.. some bontempi flares would solve a good chunk of this..

QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 3 2005, 08:51 PM)

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 3 2005, 07:45 PM) now about that A4000T ....... ...and about that $500 ....

sigh....

The cowl we cut out will work nicely to fix that. I have a spare, good pedal cluster, and you should look at the linkage that's on my 2.0. You're welcome to try it out before you have to buy another one. I'd be interested in trading for that backpad, too. I even have a couple of decent later ones to replace it with, along with a second seat.

CB linkage kit. its the bomb dot com

QUOTE (markb @ Oct 3 2005, 08:02 PM)

The cowl we cut out will work nicely to fix that. I have a spare, good pedal cluster, and you should look at the linkage that's on my 2.0. You're welcome to try it out before you have to buy another one. I'd be interested in trading for that backpad, too. I even have a couple of decent later ones to replace it with, along with a second seat.

I actually have a near perfect early backpad and passenger seat sitting in my garage.. it's "barterrific!"

I don't need another pedal cluster, I'm just going to leave the rebuilt one in and rebuild the one that came out of it for my "keeper".

That'd be a 1973 ROW 1.7 with an EA code 0-68 block.

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetP...Parts.htm#parts

Actually the connecting rod supports "look" adequate. Do they flex?

As was pointed out, you need to adjust the "angle" of your throttle cable bracket to allow the cable to make a straight line to the linkage arm.

You could upgrade the down linkage to heim joints and remove slop. If you decide to replace all the linkage, check with Dave at Triad. They offer a nice kit.

I would definitely remove and clean those carbs! And while doing so, spend some time inspecting all the jets for damage from PO abuse and make sure they all match in size.

QUOTE (Travis Neff @ Oct 3 2005, 11:12 PM)

That'd be a 1973 ROW 1.7 with an EA code 0-68 block. http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetP...Parts.htm#parts

Ooh, I wonder if it has the euro pistons..

so this is a RoW car? or just the engine??

b

QUOTE (Joseph Mills @ Oct 4 2005, 06:48 AM)

Actually the connecting rod supports "look" adequate. Do they flex? As was pointed out, you need to adjust the "angle" of your throttle cable bracket to allow the cable to make a straight line to the linkage arm. You could upgrade the down linkage to heim joints and remove slop. If you decide to replace all the linkage, check with Dave at Triad. They offer a nice kit. I would definitely remove and clean those carbs! And while doing so, spend some time inspecting all the jets for damage from PO abuse and make sure they all match in size.

Yeah, they flex.. The reason the cable angle is bad is because I moved the whole rod up, because the linkages with the heim joints are too long, and the arms that push them down were pointing almost straight up. It made the pedal even harder to push.. If I shorten the heim joint linkages and lower the rod back down, this linkage may be workable.


Where's the best (cheapest?) place to get a webber rebuild kit?

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Oct 4 2005, 08:19 AM)

so this is a RoW car? or just the engine?? b

No, the holes for the side indicators are there, just fiberglassed over. It's also a 71, and according to that site the EA was 72-73 only.

QUOTE (V6914 @ Oct 2 2005, 09:58 PM)

PURPLE is faster than Yellow.

It's not purple.....it's Aubergine (or however it's spelled)

Are there additional springs on the throttle linkage? Mine had additional springs that you could attach to make it return (better/faster???) but it could make for a really stiff pedal.

QUOTE (mikelsr @ Oct 4 2005, 09:58 AM)

Are there additional springs on the throttle linkage? Mine had additional springs that you could attach to make it return (better/faster???) but it could make for a really stiff pedal.

It only has 1 spring on each carb, but they're pretty stiff.

that angle will give you most of your problems.....

I'd weld a bracket or something to the droplink .......

i'm just guessin though.


b

Are you talking about the return spring on the carb? I am talking about an extra spring on the linkage. Mine didn't need it. I don't have a pic handy to show you mine. But if we are talking the about the same thing, disconnect them and see if that helps.

Mike

QUOTE (bondo @ Oct 4 2005, 09:22 AM)

Where's the best (cheapest?) place to get a webber rebuild kit? ..

Well, since you said "cheapest"...

I found two "rebuild" kits at my local Bug establishment. There may be better prices elsewhere. I'd shop.

There is the "lite" kit that has gaskets & rubber O-rings... 9.99 per carb.

The other kit has the above plus "needle & seat" for the float and a new diaphragm... 39.99 per carb.

I bought the lite kit since my carbs are only 3 years old.

If you don't have any idea as to the age or real condition of your carbs, there is a test you can do that might save some money. You can place a very small vial under the jet nozzle and see if all four pump the same amount of fuel repeatedly. If they do, the diaphragms are probably okay. I can look up the amount of cc's they are supposed to pump if you want. Do not dismantle the diaphragm unless you have a new replacement.

You can do a visual inspection of the needle & seat. If they look okay under some sort of magnification, they may be okay. If they look good, and the diaphragms seem to being their job, then the "lite" kit may take care of you. It's a gamble. You may save 60 bucks or you may end up spending 20 bucks plus 80 bucks and doing it twice.

There are others here that are more knowledgeable. If you just want to be done with it, pop $$ for the big kit.

But as long as you DIY, you'll be way ahead in the end.

..

what i don't care for on the cb linkage is the centering springs on the crossbar. with the triad you can set the side freeplay when the engine is hot and the droplink angularity is maintained throughout the action. you might have to modify the cross bar length on the cb. the "they're exspensive" mind set on the triad sure does confuse me. people spend lots of dough on superfluous items yet balk at steping up to the plate on a key item for the carbs. the throttle cable bracket (included) keeps the cable end at an elevation that eliminates an upward angle that can add to the bind in my book. you can put the droplinks on the front of the carbs where they are easy to get to. just mhos.

k