anybody got a good method of removing a rear window?
Thanks

BFH, goggles, and gloves

Never removed one that wasn't already broken...

BJH

O.K., maybe a better question is how you replace a rear window....

took me quite awhile. i used a stiff putty knife: jam it in there, twist, separate window from seal, repeat. eventually you can get enough of the seal broken to pop it out. it helps to have one of those glass suction thingies too, i got one for like $3 at flaps.

there may be other methods as well, i tried several. actually, the thing that's most frustrating is removing and reinstalling the targa bar pad. took me an hour just to get that thing off. next time i have to do it, i'm using velcro to reattach.

~a

Trickiest part is removing all the trim around the window. Taking seat out makes job a little easier. I had backpad taken out but suspect that not totally necessary. Otherwise targa bar trim side trim comes out. Ohh also take top off.

To soften the old butyl use a hair dryer or hot air gun. then gently pry out the glass. Moderate force on the exterior while holding interior from moving to much.

Don't bash it

Clean it all up with acetone & scrapers.

BTW there are two small rubber blocks that hold the glass off the frame at bottom, try to keep em.

Razor knife on the "goo" that holds the window to the frame.

Taking the back-pad out is pretty much necessary. I don't think you'll be able to get the glass out of the car (in one piece) with the back-pad in place. The other trim around the window may or may not be necessary, but I think it would be very difficult to get the glass positioned correctly without removing that.

I used a couple of bar clamps to hold the top of the window in place overnight while the goo set up, and a couple of rolled-up towels between the seat backs and the window to hold the bottom in place.

--DD

Randy if you want some help with it, I've done it before and would be happy to come by and help out. I need to come say hi anyway. PM Me
Eric

Paint thinner on the blade of the razor makes it alot easier to cut through all the tar crap holding the window in, just be sure to re-dip the blade often, or it gets sticky and it's done for.

Eric Shea posted a great thread on the rear window removal and replacing.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...f=5&t=15821&hl=

And instead of installing another butyl rubber strip... go with the silicon stuff in a tube. Goes much quicker that way too

I once covered one in duct tape and hit it with a 5lb sledge. Much to my amazment it did not break but came out in 1 piece after 2 good whacks. Those things are strong.

I used a heat gun to loosen the butyl then proceeded with the putty knife and it pretty much popped right out in one big piece. then proceeded to use the heat gun to get rid of all the remnants of cement on both targa and glass

Wow....lots of good advice. I'll get that sucker out of there, no problem. Heat gun, razor knife, putty knife, guitar string, acetone, thinner, duct tape and a big sledge hammer
If all else fails, I'll just cut the car away around it (it's a parts car)......Thanks to all

or just give it time, when it comes loose you can just take it out

Once I figured out what was rattling it was easy project.

Pull back pad and side pads. I used Buttal tape to put back in, why question German engineering?

Mine fell out when I took the back pad out.

QUOTE (Brando @ Oct 17 2005, 06:32 PM)

And instead of installing another butyl rubber strip... go with the silicon stuff in a tube. Goes much quicker that way too

NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER NEVER use a silicone based product to install autoglass unless you don't care about the metal it is attached to. (Sorry bud)

Silicone not only doesn't hold very long, it attracts moisture and traps it against the body. I can't tell you how many windshield and backglass jobs I did in my autoglass days that required a trip to the body shop before I could re-install the glass. When you scrape the silcone off the metal, it looks exactly like it has had battery acid and water sitting on it.

Butyl is the best choice for a vertical mount. Butyl has no "setting time" required by the way. It is as bonded after 2 seconds as it will ever be.

Well.....the window came out after two of us spent about 2 hours with knives, solvents, heat gun, levers, sticks and other implements of destruction to get the damn thing undone from the SILICONE that some bonehead installed it with. I'll repeat the previous advice emphatically....DON'T USE SILICONE TO PUT IN A WINDOW....for various reasons.

Good to hear that thing came out . That looked like it was going to be a real bitch. No kidding about NEVER using silicone .
Eric