When I replaced the o-rings on my pushrod tubes I noted that whoever had been in there previously had gooped the ends with silicon. The o-rings were pretty shot, so I thought that it was a cheap fix and got a chuckle out of it. Now I'm wondering if I should have added it.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

You did the right thing. The seals are made to move w/ engine temperature. A light coat of grease is all that is required.

Like Mark said. The new viton (sp?) seals are very good on their own. I did mine two years ago and of the 16 seals, only two seep just a tiny bit (probably my fault).

FYI - FAT Performance is notorious for caulking the crap out of them with RTV.

-Ben M.

I use a small brake cylinder hone and clean up the area that the seals sit into on the heads (if I see they are shiny from wear).. the area needs to be a little rough for a good seal.

NO SILICON.

FAT does this on their upright fan shroud engines... because they cant get proper crank case ventilation (the fan housing sits on top of what used to be the breather box).

B

I clean and touch up the sealing surface with #1 steel wool on a drill bit. It spins and cleans them up nice.
NO RTV or Silicon....
Have to try the brake hone sometime...

Geoff

I clean my mating surfaces with a white scotchbrite pad.

I then use Parker O-ring lube to install the seals.

I built a tool for installation a few yearrs ago that makes it much easier.

ok, he did the right thing... but I think I screwed up... I saw that RTV had been used and went back with it along with the new O-Rings? do I need to pull everything apart again and remove the RTV?

Hopefully no RTV has entered the engine where it blocks small oil passeges, ie the mains or cam bearings.
Keep that crap away from your engine!
Works great on sealing a water pumper but there is no water in a 914 motor!

Geoff

I was careful about that when reassembling it... but should I go back in and get it out before it does any harm?

I'd wait till it starts leaking in about 1000 miles.