we, my dad (flatvw) and i, are taking the engine out of the '72 1.7

this will be our first time doing this so we dont fully know how to do it all

we have the check list and instructions, but some experienced help would be greatly appreciated

well be doing it tomorrow morning i think wed like to take it out fix the oil filter assembly and put it right back in

well have donuts and coffee in the morning and...
my dad has offered to make a bunch of smoked meat/bbq (which always turns out well, my favorite is the pulled pork) or to buy a large pan of lasagna.
he said hell also provide BEER (ID required )

if any one could come john has said about 10 am.

we live at about 32nd st and shea

if you would like to help us out PM me and ill give you the address and directions

thanks to slits for sending us those parts we found them last night in the mail box, oil filter woes

any help would be greatly appreciated!
-shaggy

can't come to phoenix so I just pulled mine ,,,good luck...

shaggy, i've done it before...went well, and got a pat on the back from the porsche mechanic.

if you need help gimme a call

502 741 0183.


b

thanks britt

but an experienced hand to tell me what im looking at would really help
theres really nothing like having first hand help

Make it in the afternoon, and I'll be there. Got a conflict in the morning. Do you need my motorcycle jack? Start working on getting the CV bolts out now. If they are stripped, it will take forever. Make sure you get the correct 12 point tool for removing them.

John has my numbers, call.

well its in the after noon then

i have something to do already tonight so ill be up at 7 or so tomorrow and ill work those cv bolts out

the mc jack would really help

what 12 point are you talking about?

is it like a torque?
where can i buy one?

QUOTE (shaggy @ Nov 5 2005, 06:56 PM)

well its in the after noon then i have something to do already tonight so ill be up at 7 or so tomorrow and ill work those cv bolts out the mc jack would really help what 12 point are you talking about? is it like a torque? where can i buy one?

oh no!

triple-point driver. FLAPS has them....

its like a torx bit with some more ends in them.....


b

"triple point driver"?

thats what its called?

is there only one size? or do i need a specific one?

7mm i think....

somebody back me up here......

my triple-point bolts were replaced with allen head bolts.


b

sorry i couldnt have given you guys more notice on this but we need the car to be running.

and that was only decided today.

i havnt driven a 914 fo about 2 weeks or so
i miss my clutch...

im having 914 withdrawl...

Check the bolt heads as soon as you can. If they are originals, the use a 'triple square' 8mm bit. That is, they have 12 points. It is commonly used on a VW as well. You will need new CV joint gaskets. Use a couple of grocery bags on each CV to keep them clean. I'd power wash the CV's before splitting them. It is critical to keep dirt out.

Remove the battery, then disconnect the electrical connections. Mark them as you go.
Disconnect the fuel lines, and make sure the ends don't leak.
Disconnect the heater cables, clutch cable, speedo cable and throttle cable.
Be sure the tranny ground strap is disconnected, and the reverse light switch.
I'm sure you will have to remove the exhaust unless you remove the drive shafts completely. I'd guess the exhaust would be easier. You'll need new hardware for the exhaust, plus new gaskets.
Unhook the rubber from around the engine tin edges.
Loosen the engine bar bolts and the tranny mount bolts.
Support the engine with a trolley jack right at the back of the engine, and in front of the tranny (there is a rectangular machined spot to aim for).
Get some big pieces of tin or cardboard and slide it down between the engine tin and the nuts on the end of the inboard suspension arm shafts. This will guide the engine tin down past the nuts and keep things from hanging up there.

Remove the engine bar bolts and remove the nuts on the tranny bolts.
I sit with the trolley between my legs, and lower the trolley little by little while guiding the assembly down. Use the ears on the tranny to guide things. A bit like bull wrestling. Once the engine is sitting down on the trolley, pull it out.

You need about three people: one to supervise, one to supply beer on demand, and one to do all the work.

hahahahahahahahahahaha!

well have four people so we should be fine!

thanks for all the help!

they arent triple points but rather 6mm hexes

im gonna go get a bit tonight and try tomorrow morning

good thing you told me to look right away or i would bought that for no reason

but it would have helped with dropping the engine on the '75


thanks for all the help

engine drop in t-17 hours

thanks again
-shag

You should replace the washers under the CV bolts. They are a special type. New bolts will not hurt either. I've seen too much damage from loose drive shafts beating everything within reach. Cheap insurance.

You may be able to drop the engine quickly, and even get it reinstalled tomorrow. Be sure to get the new bits to finish it up right though. A rush job and used parts will ensure another job in short order, and could cause significant damage. A job like this requires either advance planning to get all the necessary parts in before you start, or a very well stocked garage.

the washers are crush wavey washers.


b

schnorr washers

QUOTE (davep @ Nov 5 2005, 05:51 PM)

A job like this requires either advance planning to get all the necessary parts in before you start, or a very well stocked garage.

We do not have either......

The CV washers look like this

how many washers do i need per side?

would bap have these things?

what do the cv gaskets look like and do you think bap would have those?

QUOTE (shaggy @ Nov 6 2005, 10:18 AM)

how many washers do i need per side? would bap have these things? what do the cv gaskets look like and do you think bap would have those?

how may do i need?

one per bolt. ill let you figure out how many bolts are on each CV.

go to pelican parts . com and click on CV gasket. im sure they have a picture. hell, google canbe your friend too


what is a BAP? if a local place. then no. id bet they wont have anything 914

how to use google images

crap


where can i get them in arizona in the next 3 hours or so?

anyone have any ideas?

QUOTE (shaggy @ Nov 6 2005, 10:23 AM)

crap where can i get them in arizona in the next 3 hours or so? anyone have any ideas?

a fellow 914er. oh and its sunday. wait till next week. have all the parts befpre you begin a project dude

if the cv gasket is just a fiber gasket could i make them? from gasket paper?

QUOTE (shaggy @ Nov 6 2005, 10:28 AM)

if the cv gasket is just a fiber gasket could i make them? from gasket paper?

NO

From my experience...

Always have a couple extra CV gaskets on hand.
You can re-use the CV bolts, but always use new schnorr washers. The key is getting it to 31 ft/pds of torque.

Did you find the 12pt 8mm tool yet?

Keep a stash


KT

its actually a 6mm hex

working on getting the washers and gaskets now

just pushed car into garage

need to take off wheels and undo cvs

Well Shaggy and Teddy (my youngest son, 15-and-nearing-a-half) are jacking it up and removing the wheels now.

Today's goal is to just get the engine dropped and the oil filter console changed.

Pics to follow, as always I will reserve myself as much as possible.....


John

this doesnt look like a 6mm hex...it's an 8mm 12-point star bit:

QUOTE (dlo914 @ Nov 6 2005, 11:56 AM)

this doesnt look like a 6mm hex...it's an 8mm 12-point star bit:

mine are hex as well, new factory replacements (well, new as in from the dealer)

I wonder why people don't just go with a hardend bolt with a regular non-recessed head?

Seems like it would makes things easier for everyone.

Not like people are shearing them off unless they overtorque.


KT

the check list on the pelican site says to drain the gas out

is there an easier way around this?

i have like half a tank in there...

can i just plug the lines and call it good?

we kinda dont know what do do with all the wires and crap
is there anyone in az who can help us?

Have you reviewed the tech section on this website on how to remove a motor?

McMark put together a nice step-by-step based on the removal of my engine last year.

Plug the lines, use those plastic line crimps or simply connect the fuel lines to themselves in the engine bay.


KT

engine drop

Well, the engine is out, much thanks to Greg Robbins for the motorcycle jack and his labor and advice for the drop.

As part of the drill, the a/c compressor was removed as well. We are gonna need a replacement piece of engine tin for the passenger front side, anyone got one lying around?

I will have Teddy post photos as soon as his homework is complete.

Thanks to everyone for you comments,

John

P.S. Greg has offered to help guide us (Jim and his pal Matt, really) on putting it back in this coming Friday, that is the current goal.

thanks Greg!

without you this would have taken much much longer
if we ever got it completed

in removing the engine we found that the inpeller is missing a fin...
if anyone has an impeller lying around and could have it to az by friday please pm me

ted (my lil bro) and i just finished moping out the garage so the green 914 can go back in tonight

enigine is out, floor is clean and im done for today

tomorrow for sure ill be in there taking the fan shroud off and replacing the oil filter assembly

thanks again to Greg and all who helped with the info!

-shag

me under the car trying to get blood flow back in my arms


ted my little brother helping my loosen the cvs


so d*mn grease, cvs really need some cleaning




dad with the cresent wrench he had to but to get the spedo cable off


thanks to greg for helping out


soaking the parts slits sent us in the gas bled out of the car


engine almost out


almost there...

did finally get it out!

i want a giant cactus in my front yard

very good guys. looks like you had some fun....and learned alot.
AA

you want a giant cactus in your front yard?!?

what?!?
huh?!?

im confused...

ok...sure...cactus...

well if it wernt a crime or if i was sure i wouldnt be caught id go dig one up and send it your way...but i cant...
sorry...

QUOTE (Flat VW @ Nov 6 2005, 05:28 PM)

As part of the drill, the a/c compressor was removed as well.  We are gonna need a replacement piece of engine tin for the passenger front side, anyone got one lying around?

Congrats on the sucessful drop. It's easier and more fun with several onlookers.

I've got a couple of spares. IIRC, that piece is the same for all engine sizes.

PM me. I should be able to get it to you before friday.

I'm gonna try to compress some time for Shaggy and post the list he left on the desk for comments:

1. De-grease engine

2. Valve cover gaskets

3. Pushrod seals

4. Oil filter assembly (remove and replace)

5. impeller (missing a single blade?)

6. Fan belt

7. Fuel filter

8. Tranny ground strap (remove and replace [worn to nearly severed on the tranny side])

9. Fuel lines

10. Intake runners-clamps

11. Clean engine bay

12. Clean under battery tray and under relay board/ seal por-15 (metal solid [screwdriver test]{rockers were just off they are tip-top} ) some surface rust and the "donut style" battery tray

13. Replace engine tin after A/C compressor removal

14. Adjust valves

15. Injector seals

Comments?

Questions?

Suggestions?


John


P.S. Who you callin' an onlooker?
I got sodas, went and bought the new wrench (as pictured above), took photos, went and picked up lunch ...

QUOTE (Flat VW @ Nov 7 2005, 01:17 PM)

I'm gonna try to compress some time for Shaggy and post the list he left on the desk for comments: 1. De-grease engine 2. Valve cover gaskets 3. Pushrod seals 4. Oil filter assembly (remove and replace) 5. impeller (missing a single blade?) 6. Fan belt 7. Fuel filter 8. Tranny ground strap (remove and replace [worn to nearly severed on the tranny side]) 9. Fuel lines 10. Intake runners-clamps 11. Clean engine bay 12. Clean under battery tray and under relay board/ seal por-15 (metal solid [screwdriver test]{rockers were just off they are tip-top} ) some surface rust and the "donut style" battery tray 13. Replace engine tin after A/C compressor removal 14. Adjust valves 15. Injector seals Comments? Questions? Suggestions? John P.S. Who you callin' an onlooker? I got sodas, went and bought the new wrench (as pictured above), took photos, went and picked up lunch ...

1.) Why? It just gets dirty again!

2.) Only if you remove the valve covers and don't have RTV

3.) I didn't know that pushrods had seals...pushrod TUBES have seals...and only if they are leaking

4.) You have two tries to not crossthread it.

5.) Slightly out of balance maybe....did you notice vibration before? Break off 3 more and make it equal.

6.) Only if glazed and it's a ALTERNATOR BELT

7.) Yes

8.) Yes or a regular short battery ground cable with ring ends

9.) Prolly more work than can be done in a weekend, but nice idea....

10.) Hose joints are there so when engine expands the runners can move a bit...
but can't hurt to much.

11.) See #1

12.) Replace tray at your convience...not hard with engine in if only the top and not the support

13.) Did you find the piece you needed?

14.) Most CERTAINLY

15.) Cheap and easy to do anytime..

Suggestions:

Latex gloves and Tequila.................



Stayed tuned for more harassment!

Here are some pictures I took of my brother (Shaggy) and his engine/scrapped parts...











Oh, by the way, I'm Ted. My father would be John (FlatVW) and my brother would be Jim (Shaggy). I just joined the other day, and will undoubtably be posting numerous pictures such as these. Although I get my permit in a few months, I still have a red 914 lined up for my future self...