ChrisReale
Nov 6 2005, 08:03 PM
So my car decided to dump oil all over the floor of my parking space, pissing off the management. Ive spent the last two saturdays cleaning up the mess. I got around to replacing the rubber o-ring, lightly coated it in black sealent to help it stay put. New paper gasket and copper crush gaskets. Today I see it is still leaking oil. There always seems to be a drop hanging off the temp sender wire and a small puddle of oil about 4 inches in diameter right under the taco plate. Im getting tired of this. Im "pretty" sure my plate is not taco'ed, but not 100%. Any other ideas or should I just source a new plate? Oh, and I am not even using synthetic anymore, this is with dino schtuff
914werke
Nov 6 2005, 08:05 PM
Chris what about just going the Billet route?
ChrisReale
Nov 6 2005, 08:13 PM
is there a billet route? direct me.....
qa1142
Nov 6 2005, 08:26 PM
Chris
I finally left outer plate off. Just plate, oring, crush washers, and NO LEAKS!
I had it up and down like 5 times before that.
If all else fails, worth the try
blabla914
Nov 6 2005, 08:28 PM
This shouldn't be tough to seal. What kind of sealant did you use? I've found anything that hardens on an o-ring doesn't help. Dow 111 high temp silicone grease works good for any o-ring. If you're having that much problem with that plate leaking I'd look for any kind of unevenness or gouges in the plate or case.
Kelly
johnmhudson111
Nov 6 2005, 10:04 PM
QUOTE (ChrisReale @ Nov 6 2005, 09:13 PM) |
is there a billet route? direct me..... |
I am having a similar issue with my car since I tapped it for an oil tempature sender. I wish someone would make a billet plate, I have even thought about going back to school to learn how make billet parts (the local comunity college has a course for it). I just wonder what it would be like to go back to school at 37 but, I degress. If someone ever makes a billet plate put me on the list for one.
Aaron Cox
Nov 6 2005, 10:06 PM
didnt mueller cad up a drawing?
all that is left is machining no?
johnmhudson111
Nov 7 2005, 12:41 AM
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 6 2005, 11:06 PM) |
didnt mueller cad up a drawing?
all that is left is machining no? |
I found the drawing in another thread, asked if it ever got going, and then the tread was deleted.
I thought it is odd that with the number of people that have trouble with these things that someone hasn't done one already.
Mueller
Nov 7 2005, 08:20 AM
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 6 2005, 09:06 PM) |
didnt mueller cad up a drawing?
all that is left is machining no? |
just trying to improve the production method/time to lower the costs....
Chris, are you using new crush washers?
ChrisReale
Nov 7 2005, 11:16 AM
Yes I am using new crush washers and gaskets.
Aaron Cox
Nov 7 2005, 11:51 AM
QUOTE (Mueller @ Nov 7 2005, 07:20 AM) |
QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 6 2005, 09:06 PM) | didnt mueller cad up a drawing?
all that is left is machining no? |
just trying to improve the production method/time to lower the costs....
Chris, are you using new crush washers? |
farm it out????
get these things on the makret mike
mikelsr
Nov 7 2005, 12:16 PM
QUOTE (johnmhudson111 @ Nov 6 2005, 08:04 PM) |
...I have even thought about going back to school to learn how make billet parts (the local comunity college has a course for it). I just wonder what it would be like to go back to school at 37 but, I degress... |
I am 52 and taking a welding course at the local community college. Go for it.
Mike
kobas
Nov 10 2005, 11:21 AM
I had the same problem with leaking taco plate. Finally stopped leaking after I made a new gasket out of some rubberized high temp gasket material I bought at pep boys. The gasket material I used was thicker than the stock gasket.
Bruce Allert
Nov 10 2005, 06:18 PM
Hi Kwith
taco's are fer eat'n
I solved my leak problem... sold the dam thang.
Bought a Miata. It don't leak (but I put it up on a curb on my Birthday)

drivers rear wheel & A frame are in need of repair
But it don't leak
........b have a Fat Tiar
lagunero
Nov 11 2005, 05:47 PM
Hey Chris, did you fix the leak? If so, how?
sixnotfour
Nov 11 2005, 05:55 PM
QUOTE |
I solved my leak problem... sold the dam thang |
Sure made a mess in the back of my truck
So i sold the dam thing ,
Next
QUOTE |
Hey Chris, did you fix the leak? If so, how? |
Mark Henry
Nov 11 2005, 06:25 PM
First the threads (6mm) are ok right? Seen many stripped...put in many heli-coils
I've used teflon tread sealant with good success. Just don't let much get by to the inside of the case.
DNHunt
Nov 12 2005, 07:46 AM
Hey Jeff
I inherited that mess. It's leaked all over the floor of the woodshed.
I've used hylomar on the O-ring and Loctite 518 on the plates and nuts. That seems to work for me. Once I got one sealed I try not to mess with it
Dave
Bruce Allert
Nov 12 2005, 09:52 AM
Jeff & Dave, I was kidding about my leaking prob. It leaked but not that bad.... sorry
You guys are speaking of Punkins rod knockin 2.0???
......b
Cap'n Krusty
Nov 12 2005, 10:04 AM
QUOTE (DNHunt @ Nov 12 2005, 05:46 AM) |
Hey Jeff
I inherited that mess. It's leaked all over the floor of the woodshed.
I've used hylomar on the O-ring and Loctite 518 on the plates and nuts. That seems to work for me. Once I got one sealed I try not to mess with it
Dave |
REPEAT AFTER ME!: "Sealing surfaces with o-rings are designed to have clean, direct contact between the metal and the o-ring. Sealant used in these applications generally, if not always, leads to leakage."
In the case of the "taco plate", there's an o-ring that fits into a deliberately designed gap between the case and the metal cover. The cover is held in place by 2 6mm machine screws, which are each sealed by a composite crush washer. This washer MUST be installed with the "split" side AWAY from the surface of the cover. If the "taco plate" has an oil temp sender provision, then there's a paper gasket installed under the protective plate, making it a 3 part sandwiched assembly. The copper crush washer still goes under the head of the machine screw, and still has the same orientation. One MUST assure that the threads in the crankcase are intact before assembling the cover assembly. The o-ring should be lightly oiled before installation, and thread sealant is permissable. If the threads are in any way degraded, they must be repaired to ensure the integrity of the seal. If the cover is warped or otherwise damaged, it must be repaired or replaced.
Paper or composition gasket = sealant OK.
Rubber or polymer o-ring = No sealant.
How hard is that?
The Cap'n
McMark
Nov 12 2005, 12:20 PM
So I think what the Cap'n is alluding to is that there are lots of every so slightly bent taco plates out there.
Cap'n Krusty
Nov 12 2005, 03:48 PM
QUOTE (McMark @ Nov 12 2005, 10:20 AM) |
So I think what the Cap'n is alluding to is that there are lots of every so slightly bent taco plates out there. |
Not really. What I am alluding to is that you should NEVER use sealant on o-rings. The likelihood of the plate being bent is virtually nil. The Cap'n
Mark Henry
Nov 13 2005, 07:07 AM
QUOTE (Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 12 2005, 12:04 PM) |
REPEAT AFTER ME!: "Sealing surfaces with o-rings are designed to have clean, direct contact between the metal and the o-ring. Sealant used in these applications generally, if not always, leads to leakage."........
Paper or composition gasket = sealant OK.
Rubber or polymer o-ring = No sealant.
How hard is that?
The Cap'n |
3-4 years ago I would have totally agreed with you on this.
(BUT I'll never agree with you about head shims...haven't put any in an engine since 1990 and never will, period.)
When I first started surfing the STF, I thought Jake was full of shit when he said to use liquid Teflon on the push rod seals, etc. Then I met Jake in person, found he was a nice guy with a passion for these engines. He asked me to just try it and see what happens. I've always been anal about polishing the sealing surfaces, but still would get the odd drip, since I started doing this Jakes way my engines are 99.9% leak free.
I still don't agree with Jake every time, but I do respect his opinion.
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