so i dropped the engine finally

i have it out in my grage now and tomorrow ill start cleaning it up

heres my to do list as of yet, please if i missed anything chime in:

degrease engine

check valve cover gaskets

check for oil leaks (push rods mainly)

change oil filter assembly

put in new impeller(mine now has a missing fin, if any one has one and can sent it to my in az by friday please pm me)

replace timing belt(with impeller)

change fuel filter

change tranny ground strap(mine was trashed)

change fuel lines(where needed)

put clamps on intake runners

change spark plugs

clean engine bay

clean hell holes( por 15? anyone know anything about it?)

replace missing engine tin( im missing the front passenger tin now that my ac compresser is out of anyone anyone has one and can have it to az by friday please pm me)

neaten up electrical system(not replace anything)


so did i miss anything?
if so please tell me
id like to have my engine ready to go back in by next friday so im trying to control what im going to do

Take some pics in the engine compartment for us to look at.

Just a fan belt, BTW ( No timing there )


KT

i will tomorrow when i get home from school

is there as specific size on that fan belt and a better one than others?

I always thought "Gates" made a nice belt.

While the engine is on the ground, replace the pushrod tube seals, adjust the valves no matter what, and use new valve cover gaskets.

Look for any suspicious vacuum hoses that need replacing.

Think about replacing the injector seals now.

all these things and the ones you mentioned are WAY easier to do with the engine out.

Good job


KT

is that really necessary?
the top end was redone about 5 months ago or so

QUOTE (shaggy @ Nov 6 2005, 10:19 PM)

is that really necessary?

if it's not leaking, leave the seals alone ...

Andy

are you ready to run with trackmasters at Sears Point by Nov 13?????

The way you described the motor being all oily with potential fuel line problems and other things, I got the feeling you are a new owner taking control.


KT

my dad bought the car

then recently he bought brian millers restored 74 w/ a raby 2270 and 911 suspension brakes and wheels ect...

now the 72 914 is mine

the lines have been replaced its just this one 7 inch spot that needs it


"are you ready to run with trackmasters at Sears Point by Nov 13????? "
/\
|
|
huh?
what is that?
is that the track thing at firebird a week from today?
if it is im not running it
my dad, john, flatvw is considering it
id like to but i dont have the money and im not 100% sure ill be un and running by then

what should i do about the seals keeping in mind that the top end was redone about 5 months ago?

change the gear lube in the trans. check that the vent on the top of the trans is not plugged and ensure that it is oriented in the correct position, hanyes p.87.

k

Good time to clean the leaves, dust, dirt, etc. that builds up on top of the oil cooler and cylinders to improve the cooling. You'll have to remove some engine tin to do this, though.

QUOTE (theol00 @ Nov 6 2005, 09:24 PM)

are you ready to run with trackmasters at Sears Point by Nov 13?????

Sears Point (Infineon Raceway) near Sonoma, CA is an awful long way from Phoenix AZ. (Read the location field, dude!) I kinda doubt he's trying to get his car ready for that.

--DD

I think Theo was asking me about the DE?

We took it PM.

Where are the pics, Shag-man?


KT

QUOTE (trekkor @ Nov 8 2005, 03:14 PM)

Where are the pics, Shag-man? KT

The scraggy one did his homework FIRST, he just headed for the garage, I expect an update soon.

I will tell him you rang,

John

Jim got the shroud, impeller and oil cooler removed.

He then removed the oil filter console.

It was galled up BAD.

In the course of removing the oil filter console a threaded stud for the ofc un-threaded.

Jim plans to clean it and then re-thread it in with loctite.

Comments, questions, suggestions appreciated.

John

P.S. fotos to follow (including the carnage ), camera battery charging.....

Run a timecert in if the threads pulled with the stud....threads in aluminum do not heal themselves. Loctite won't cure the problem.

They make a kit...drill, tap and timecerts....prolly available at a good FLAPS

QUOTE (SLITS @ Nov 8 2005, 05:25 PM)

Run a timecert in if the threads pulled with the stud....threads in aluminum do not heal themselves.  Loctite won't cure the problem. They make a kit...drill, tap and timecerts....prolly available at a good FLAPS

I don't think it pulled, more un- threaded the stud as it must have hung up on the OFC console top nut while the nut was being removed.

Same advice Ron?

John

i took the rest of the shrowd off and replaced the oil filter assembly
and then put it back together

there were some flaps/bellows in there and i cna figure out how they go back
i have them lined up but the passenger side wont close and i cant figure out how the spring fits back in its loaded position


theres the flap on the driver side(i cant get it closed, if it does close)

theres the flap that stays in place on the passenger side, just behind out of camra view there is a cut in the tin to allow air to flow through the oil cooler

the screw driver is pointing to the rod that connects the driver flap to the rest of the car (sorry the driver is hard to see)

theres the spring that should keep the flap down, i think. how shoud that be loaded and be sitting?

theres a tab that comes off the rear postion of the housing that holds the rod in place

thats something that holds the rod down. its in the passenger side vent thingie

does anyone know how thay are suppost to go together?
how does this all fit back together?

they haynes manual dosent have anything about this
and i dont know what they are called to search it

cant see the pics...post them here so we can see them.

damn geocities is down again

about 10 min ago they were fine...

i hate geocities

You can upload pics to your blog and link in your posts! Its a great feature.

On the very top of the website, you see a green bar that says "home, forum, faq...blog". Click on blog then go to your blog, add an entry, and add pictures.

The flappy thingy you're playing with directs air to the oil cooler and head / cylinders. In the closed position (cold engine), that flap would be in the up position, blocking off the airflow to the cooler / cylinders & head. In the warm position, the flap is in approximately that position (also when the theromostat wire fails, it fails in the open position you see in the pic). There is a small space at the leading edge of the flap that directs air over the cooler, plus an open feed to the cylinder / head.

In very warm climates, it is common to remove the link and screw the end of the flap (nearest to the cylinder) to the oil cooler frame.

what the hell is a blog?

so in warm climates it is common to remove the flaps entirely?

is arizona a warm climate?
even in the winter?

QUOTE (shaggy @ Nov 9 2005, 02:38 PM)

what the hell is a blog? so in warm climates it is common to remove the flaps entirely? is arizona a warm climate? even in the winter?

Web log.... weblog... blog.

Sort of an online diary. It's a place to post notes, photos, progress, etc.

Click the BLOG button at the bottom of your post and play.

Remove the flaps? No... don't need to be doing that.

Is Arizona warm? Does the trees moving make the wind blow?

Hey Shaggy.... THANKS for posting your progess and questions. This is good stuff.... for a lot of people. Keep it up.