It's been a serious pain in the A double S but in the long run, it will be worth it...
Just thought I would share a few pictures. I must have removed 50 lbs of bondo... I think the PO had stock in the stuff..
Still not quite sure why it was used? The doors look straight... Anyone have any thoughts? Other then an accident, I can't think of any other reason.

you are my hero. come over tommorrow man!!!!

i borrowd a jug of aircraft stripper from skline, and need to strip a lid!!


looks tres bitchin man!

Another

One more.
Thanks to MattR and Twystd1 for the great advice..



If it wasn't for you both, I would still be stipping the paint on the hood!!!

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 12 2005, 07:16 PM)

you are my hero. come over tommorrow man!!!! i borrowd a jug of aircraft stripper from skline, and need to strip a lid!! looks tres bitchin man!

Barrowed ? You gonna give it back to him when your done?
You really need help? If so I will be there.

QUOTE (bmunday @ Nov 12 2005, 08:23 PM)

QUOTE (Aaron Cox @ Nov 12 2005, 07:16 PM) you are my hero. come over tommorrow man!!!! i borrowd a jug of aircraft stripper from skline, and need to strip a lid!! looks tres bitchin man! Barrowed ? You gonna give it back to him when your done? You really need help? If so I will be there.

Brando and Grimstead will be over tomorrow.

give me some pointers on the stripping. im doing just a rear lid.....i think

hey brian did you sand it or use aircraft stripper?

looks good

Easy...Since the car is outside, it will work even better with the weather being warmer. Put a nice layer down and drape a plastic drop cloth over it. Let it sit for a few hours. According to Matt the longer the better. My car had about 18 layers of paint, so after about an hour, I put another coat on. Putty knife and elbow grease...

QUOTE (PKRMONY @ Nov 12 2005, 07:27 PM)

hey brian did you sand it or use aircraft stripper? looks good

Aircraft stripper, Disc sander and the hard spots and edges.. It's easy, just time consuming,,

Thanks

that's how i did mine, but, i had alot more bondo. i had to stop and went to Fred Sanford's Garage (aka Skline) to get better doors and deck lids

On the bondo, the left front corner looks like it had some accident repair done on it. However, the factory applied a fair amount of bondo to these cars, too. Karmann really was something of a hand-built kind of shop, and most of the cars that left there had some bondo under the paint to clean them up.

I would bet that when you shoot a light coat of primer on those doors you will find out why there was bondo all over it. I am thinking your doors are not quite as straight as you think they are. Many shops in the 70's and 80's and even still today use body filler to make the doors perfectly straight.

You guys are probabely right.
At first I thought that since there seems to be paint coat on top of paint cost. Perhaps they used the bondo to fill the cracked layers between each coat. The bondo dhow is about 1/2 of what there was.I was coming off in sheets, when I soaked it with stripper and then took the putty knife to it...

Scott... Here is a stuoid question: I am thinking I might be able to paint it in the next month or so, but with X-mas coming I might need to wait. Should I be concerned with moisture? I know I'm not talking aobut 6 months on the East coast, but after the work I have put in, it does worry me. If so should it be primered?
I don't have a spray gun, so the quality of the paint job would be poor at best. Second if I should primer it, what type of primer should I use?
Thanks

FWI: most primers are not waterproof so if you are going to primer it make sure you use somekind of waterproof stuff on it if you are worried about rust. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about a few months or so, especially since you are in a pretty dry place.

QUOTE (jd74914 @ Nov 13 2005, 06:34 AM)

FWI: most primers are not waterproof so if you are going to primer it make sure you use somekind of waterproof stuff on it if you are worried about rust. Personally I wouldn't worry too much about a few months or so, especially since you are in a pretty dry place.

Thanks Jim...
That's what I thought, but if you don't ask you don't know. I don't think I need to worry to much about it...

If it's gonna stand for a couple months, use a quality etch primer. RM is gud and available in rattle cans....not cheep in the amount you need.....cheeper to buy a spray gun in fact and do it right. The stuff is nasty, go get a respirator.

Waiting for skline

JP is right, even in just a few months inside your garage, the car will rust......remember, it is a 914 and that is what they do.

Harbor Freight has cheap paint guns you can pick up for shooting primer. There is a place here in Costa Mesa called Senick Paints you can pick up the primer. You will be sanding it back off however to do body work and such so you dont really need anything too expensive. But you really should have something on there to at least protect the metal. Again, it is inside your garage so the primer wont have to protect it from rain or anything, just the outside humidity. I have a gun here if you need one to shoot some primer. It was donated from another member when they moved out of state. It's brand new and yours if you want it. I may even have some primer here.

QUOTE (skline @ Nov 13 2005, 09:00 AM)

JP is right, even in just a few months inside your garage, the car will rust......remember, it is a 914 and that is what they do. Harbor Freight has cheap paint guns you can pick up for shooting primer. There is a place here in Costa Mesa called Senick Paints you can pick up the primer. You will be sanding it back off however to do body work and such so you dont really need anything too expensive. But you really should have something on there to at least protect the metal. Again, it is inside your garage so the primer wont have to protect it from rain or anything, just the outside humidity. I have a gun here if you need one to shoot some primer. It was donated from another member when they moved out of state. It's brand new and yours if you want it. I may even have some primer here.

Thanks Scott....
Ok now I will need to get a compressor.. I can rent one, is there a specific size I should rent? This may appear as a stupid question, just want to do it right.

Most guns you buy today are HVLP so the compressor does not need to be anything too big. You will only be running about 15 to 20 PSI through the gun anyway. Even that might be a little high. If you are planning to do a lot of the work yourself on the car, it may be worth it to just go pick up one from Harbor Freight for $200 or so and just keep it. They do come in handy for other things as well.

QUOTE (bmunday @ Nov 13 2005, 09:05 AM)

QUOTE (skline @ Nov 13 2005, 09:00 AM) JP is right, even in just a few months inside your garage, the car will rust......remember, it is a 914 and that is what they do. Harbor Freight has cheap paint guns you can pick up for shooting primer. There is a place here in Costa Mesa called Senick Paints you can pick up the primer. You will be sanding it back off however to do body work and such so you dont really need anything too expensive. But you really should have something on there to at least protect the metal. Again, it is inside your garage so the primer wont have to protect it from rain or anything, just the outside humidity. I have a gun here if you need one to shoot some primer. It was donated from another member when they moved out of state. It's brand new and yours if you want it. I may even have some primer here. Thanks Scott.... Ok now I will need to get a compressor.. I can rent one, is there a specific size I should rent? This may appear as a stupid question, just want to do it right.

I truly appreciate your enthusiasum but your in over your head. Does anyone with a compressor, spray gun, and skills live close enough to help a brotha out? I've seen many of these well intensioned projects die a slow rust proned death. Don't be afraid to get or pay for some help.

It needs to be washed down with thiners, DA'ed and primed right now!

I don't care how dry it is there...in a couple of months it will be a rusty pile of
Rust starts the second it sees bare metal.

Use real vinyl wash or epoxy primer...not rattle can shit.

I agree too unless you have had at least some paint expeirence painting your project can be a up hill battle with equipment, paints and primers, not to mention the body work....what i did was pay a body man to come out to my shop on Saterdays to do the body work, and then brought it to a paint shop for final paint, in a proper booth, i helped a lot with a prep and body work, and now feel confident that i could spray a car, but i know that it would not look as hot as the Scarlot Harlot,
but what ever you choose... good luck
just a little unsolicited advice
steve

But thinking about it again...you could paint it flat black, no worries then.... rat rod style

I appreciate all the advice. Your right I am in over my head on the painting, I just want to protect it from any rust until I can get it painted. After reading what Scott had posted, I think I will just pony up the cash and get it to a painter. I don't want to jack it all up by trying to just protect it.
Again appreciate the advice...
That's why I posted the question....

QUOTE (bmunday @ Nov 13 2005, 10:41 AM)

I appreciate all the advice. Your right I am in over my head on the painting, I just want to protect it from any rust until I can get it painted. After reading what Scott had posted, I think I will just pony up the cash and get it to a painter. I don't want to jack it all up by trying to just protect it. Again appreciate the advice... That's why I posted the question....

Great! I hope you don't think we were being to harsh on you. I just want to see you succeed. I like the idea of hiring a bodyman to come over on the weekends to help with advise and knowledge. You'll save money over a retail job and lean something too. Good luck!

QUOTE (rick 918-S @ Nov 13 2005, 01:55 PM)

QUOTE (bmunday @ Nov 13 2005, 10:41 AM) I appreciate all the advice. Your right I am in over my head on the painting, I just want to protect it from any rust until I can get it painted. After reading what Scott had posted, I think I will just pony up the cash and get it to a painter. I don't want to jack it all up by trying to just protect it. Again appreciate the advice... That's why I posted the question.... Great! I hope you don't think we were being to harsh on you. I just want to see you succeed. I like the idea of hiring a bodyman to come over on the weekends to help with advise and knowledge. You'll save money over a retail job and lean something too. Good luck!

Rick,

No not at all. If I wasn't interested in honesty, I wouldn't have posted here. I want to get it done, but I want to doit right. Your right I don't know the best way to prep and paint it, not tomention the lack of room inmy garage, and not having the right tools.

Maybe one of the local guys will have some free time to come over and lend me a hand, or at least give me some good direction. It mightbe best to just send it to the painter and have it done. Get's to freekin expensive that way though.

Either way no worries... Appreciate the honesty, and food for thought. Proley saved me from spedning more then necessary and pissing me off in the process..

It ain't rocket science.
If ya got an IQ over 100 you can do about any manufacturing task. Painting is about the easiest of these. Research, some good advice, and stuborness can carry one thru.

Always leave yourself an "out".
When painting my first (and only) car, I knew I couldn't lay down a perfect finish. I hadn't the time nor inclination to
practice at it for a year or so. I did the best I could with 3 color coats .....enuff milage to color sand & buff.

Someone not willing to try something new wouldn't get past breathing, eating, shitting, and sleeping.

BTW, I gave rattle can etch primer a 3 year weather test on my homemade flares. That stuff hung in there quite nicely, thanks.
I used it (non-rattlecan) for my prime coat on the shit box. Hi-build went over that.

QUOTE (J P Stein @ Nov 13 2005, 03:20 PM)

It ain't rocket science. If ya got an IQ over 100 you can do about any manufacturing task. Painting is about the easiest of these. Research, some good advice, and stuborness can carry one thru. Always leave yourself an "out". When painting my first (and only) car, I knew I couldn't lay down a perfect finish. I hadn't the time nor inclination to practice at it for a year or so. I did the best I could with 3 color coats .....enuff milage to color sand & buff. Someone not willing to try something new wouldn't get past breathing, eating, shitting, and sleeping. BTW, I gave rattle can etch primer a 3 year weather test on my homemade flares. That stuff hung in there quite nicely, thanks. I used it (non-rattlecan) for my prime coat on the shit box. Hi-build went over that.

Well I have an IQ over 100, with that said, I also think that when you don't have the propper equipment, then no matter how smart you are the quality isn't there. As muchtime effort and blood I have put in to this car so far, and it's just the begining, I want it to look right. So I will either have someone do it, or find someone with experience to lend me a hand.

This thread brings up one the biggest issues I've been stewing over since I got my car. The car is a beater, and I've been fixing up the mechanicals : wheel bearings, tie rods, shocks/springs, etc. Gonna put in a Suby engine. But the paint is absolute crap : trunk lid is primer, poorly fixed dent in rear fender is primer, and what's left of the paint is full of serious cracks. So the dilemma is that it has to be stripped and painted, but I don't wanna spend a ton on the job; all I want is a car that's not an eyesore.

I read up on auto painting at the bookstore, and went to an auto body supply shop to browse and learn more. The sales guy laid into a very hard sell to not do the job myself. The best compromise sounds like doing something like Brian has done. Stripping w/ aircraft stripper sounds straightforward, and not something that will screw up the job.

So I guess my questions are :

1) After stripping, is it okay to clean and shoot on a coat of the appropriate primer myself, or does the primer coat have to be done by a pro ?

2) After the primer, is there any more work that I can do that won't screw things up for the final paint ? I mean, if I try my hand at the fine art of Bondo (I've used it in house restoration), and do a round or two of guide coat and sanding, is this going to make the final job any cheaper ?

3) Would it make sense, as a way of testing the water, to go through the whole process with just the rear trunk lid ? (It needs to be stripped, 'cause the primer is years old and there is some rust beneath it.)


If it's not too big a hijack, I'd love to hear from more people who have tackled this job....

I don't disagree entirely about the I.Q. thing J.P. I had several employees over the years that could hardly sign their pay checks but we excellent tech's. They deserve every respect. Getting lucky while playing in yer garage and painting one car doesn't make you a painter. I seem to recall you painted some or all of your car more than once.
My point is before you start removing paint you should atleast have a plan to keep from going backwards. now that the paint is off the car bmunday should seek some assistance from the locals. It will give him some time to get the tools or locate someone to help him finish the car.

Body work is a form of art. Some people work wonderful feats with business theory but will never be able to change their tire without hurting themselves. It's not for everyone.

QUOTE (jsteele22 @ Nov 13 2005, 03:36 PM)

This thread brings up one the biggest issues I've been stewing over since I got my car. The car is a beater, and I've been fixing up the mechanicals : wheel bearings, tie rods, shocks/springs, etc. Gonna put in a Suby engine. But the paint is absolute crap : trunk lid is primer, poorly fixed dent in rear fender is primer, and what's left of the paint is full of serious cracks. So the dilemma is that it has to be stripped and painted, but I don't wanna spend a ton on the job; all I want is a car that's not an eyesore. I read up on auto painting at the bookstore, and went to an auto body supply shop to browse and learn more. The sales guy laid into a very hard sell to not do the job myself. The best compromise sounds like doing something like Brian has done. Stripping w/ aircraft stripper sounds straightforward, and not something that will screw up the job. So I guess my questions are : 1) After stripping, is it okay to clean and shoot on a coat of the appropriate primer myself, or does the primer coat have to be done by a pro ? 2) After the primer, is there any more work that I can do that won't screw things up for the final paint ? I mean, if I try my hand at the fine art of Bondo (I've used it in house restoration), and do a round or two of guide coat and sanding, is this going to make the final job any cheaper ? 3) Would it make sense, as a way of testing the water, to go through the whole process with just the rear trunk lid ? (It needs to be stripped, 'cause the primer is years old and there is some rust beneath it.) If it's not too big a hijack, I'd love to hear from more people who have tackled this job....

As you said the stripping part is easy. That is to say it's just time consuming.
Based on many of the posts on here, there seems to be much more involved.Welldepending on what type of quality you want.

I want to have a nice paint job. It dosen't need to be the best, just a good finish that will last. I have had this car for three months now, not long at all by comparison to the others here,but long enough. In that time, I have spent a number of hours working and sweating. After all my efforts, I don't want to lookback and say I wish.

Bondo is easy if I can doit anyone can. Again just takes time.
I'm sure there are people more qualified then myself that will chime in. Iwould be interested inwhat others have experienced.

QUOTE (rick 918-S @ Nov 13 2005, 03:45 PM)

I don't disagree entirely about the I.Q. thing J.P. I had several employees over the years that could hardly sign their pay checks but we excellent tech's. They deserve every respect. Getting lucky while playing in yer garage and painting one car doesn't make you a painter. I seem to recall you painted some or all of your car more than once. My point is before you start removing paint you should atleast have a plan to keep from going backwards. now that the paint is off the car bmunday should seek some assistance from the locals. It will give him some time to get the tools or locate someone to help him finish the car. Body work is a form of art. Some people work wonderful feats with business theory but will never be able to change their tire without hurting themselves. It's not for everyone.

Thanks Rick.
There are a number of things I can do with my hands. I think I am very good with my hands. I have done a number of things with the restoration of my home. I'mnot affraid todo anything. I have learned however there are times when you stand back and think let's see. Does this make sense,or should I get someone who knows better.

After reading your post this is one of those times, when it makes sense to seek help.

QUOTE (jsteele22 @ Nov 13 2005, 03:36 PM)

This thread brings up one the biggest issues I've been stewing over since I got my car. The car is a beater, and I've been fixing up the mechanicals : wheel bearings, tie rods, shocks/springs, etc. Gonna put in a Suby engine. But the paint is absolute crap : trunk lid is primer, poorly fixed dent in rear fender is primer, and what's left of the paint is full of serious cracks. So the dilemma is that it has to be stripped and painted, but I don't wanna spend a ton on the job; all I want is a car that's not an eyesore. I read up on auto painting at the bookstore, and went to an auto body supply shop to browse and learn more. The sales guy laid into a very hard sell to not do the job myself. The best compromise sounds like doing something like Brian has done. Stripping w/ aircraft stripper sounds straightforward, and not something that will screw up the job. So I guess my questions are : 1) After stripping, is it okay to clean and shoot on a coat of the appropriate primer myself, or does the primer coat have to be done by a pro ? 2) After the primer, is there any more work that I can do that won't screw things up for the final paint ? I mean, if I try my hand at the fine art of Bondo (I've used it in house restoration), and do a round or two of guide coat and sanding, is this going to make the final job any cheaper ? 3) Would it make sense, as a way of testing the water, to go through the whole process with just the rear trunk lid ? (It needs to be stripped, 'cause the primer is years old and there is some rust beneath it.) If it's not too big a hijack, I'd love to hear from more people who have tackled this job....

1) After stripping, is it okay to clean and shoot on a coat of the appropriate primer myself, or does the primer coat have to be done by a pro ?

A) No, if you read all the info you have and prepare the car properly, you can have every success here.

2) After the primer, is there any more work that I can do that won't screw things up for the final paint ? I mean, if I try my hand at the fine art of Bondo (I've used it in house restoration), and do a round or two of guide coat and sanding, is this going to make the final job any cheaper ?

A) I wouldn't discourage anyone from trying to repair a panel if for no other reason to get a real appreciation for the guy's that do this work everyday. If it turns out perfect, yes, you will save a bunch of money.

Beware, many shops won't spray the car if it doesn't meet their standards. If you bring it in and they tell you they will repair your flaws first, GET A PRICE in WRITTING! You may want to bring it home and practice on it for a while then bring it back after you fix what the shop wouldn't paint over.


If it's not too big a hijack, I'd love to hear from more people who have tackled this job....

In 20 years of service as a collision and resto shop owner I had several people a year stop in for free advise with the promise of future work. Being in the business of making money and not wanting to work for free, I seldom ever painted a car we didn't repair. Not that I'm a complete a$$hole, I just found very few people trying to fix a car for the first or second time in their lives that could turn out the caliber of work the public expects from a professional shop.

When the car wasn't perfect it was still mentioned that it was painted at my shop... catch 22

QUOTE (bmunday @ Nov 13 2005, 03:53 PM)

QUOTE (rick 918-S @ Nov 13 2005, 03:45 PM) I don't disagree entirely about the I.Q. thing J.P. I had several employees over the years that could hardly sign their pay checks but we excellent tech's. They deserve every respect. Getting lucky while playing in yer garage and painting one car doesn't make you a painter. I seem to recall you painted some or all of your car more than once. My point is before you start removing paint you should atleast have a plan to keep from going backwards. now that the paint is off the car bmunday should seek some assistance from the locals. It will give him some time to get the tools or locate someone to help him finish the car. Body work is a form of art. Some people work wonderful feats with business theory but will never be able to change their tire without hurting themselves. It's not for everyone. Thanks Rick. There are a number of things I can do with my hands. I think I am very good with my hands. I have done a number of things with the restoration of my home. I'mnot affraid todo anything. I have learned however there are times when you stand back and think let's see. Does this make sense,or should I get someone who knows better. After reading your post this is one of those times, when it makes sense to seek help.

Cool, I don't think you need to bring it to a shop if you can get a tech to help you get a real start. Good luck.

Way to go brian! Looks good!!!

Are you thinking about the painter we talked about in Orange?