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Dave_Darling
QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Jan 3 2003, 06:37 PM)
In a nutshell.. he said that the side we weld the kit is not the week side. The side with the exposed pivot arm is what tweaked first in side load testing. They could not get it to twist without completely breaking.


And yet, back in the 70s they found on the Ginther and Maas race cars, that the arms were flexing. Talk to Anderson about this some time. He did not say how they found that the arms were flexing (I assume they instrumented it, but that is just an assumption) but he did say that boxing the arms cured that problem.

I myself would probably not use the trailing arm reinforcements. However, there is some data to support their use. (BTW, I think that the above is where the boxing of the arms comes from, not from the factory racing effort.)

--DD
Brad Roberts
I have chatted with Bruce about this, what he admits in public isnt always what he admits in private.

One of Ginthers original crew guys owns a business at Sears point and frequently visits us here at SSI. I have lots and lots of "from the horses mouth" information. Good stuff. He lived 3 doors down from Ginther in SoCal and became a big time Mustang racer.

I cannot imagine that they had the tires we have today. I would have assumed that the problems (if any) would have shown up on every car that runs slicks today.

B
Jeroen
Hi Rich,

Here's some ideas for you
Tony and Brad will prolly skip in on if it will work or not...

You could also run the rear uprights behind the firewall, that way you'd get very little interiour intrusion

Cheers,

Jeroen
Brad Roberts
Looks good to me for a aggressive street car. The front tube doesnt need to go that high. It can stop at the back side of the fenderwell. The fenderwells are very very strong material. Welding to them as high as you can go in the cockpit will be just fine. You will get the same effect as if you went through the firewall.

I wish I could draw.

B
kuch
If you stiffen a street car, will this eliminate the body flex that causes the rear signal light lenses to crack??? ph34r.gif
Brad Roberts
Kuch,

how much HP you pushing through a 914 ??? I have yet to crack a lense from body twist.. ha ha

This should be good.

B
kuch
blink.gif Not enough.......I just thought that since the car was dubbed the "flexy flier" that this is the cause of all the cracked lenses...over the years I have quite the collection of cracked lenses.
r_towle
Jereon,
Could you send me the drawing without the red lines...
I will draw it the way I'm thinking.
just post it here and I will edit it...Just to lazy here to erase your lines...hoping for the raw drawing of the car please......

BTW, Brad....I got you understanding this is an aggresive street car, no cage inspection will be done.....

Please take a look and re-address the tubing size question. I think I can use tubing that is smaller than roll cage tubing and achieve my desire for a stiff car..I hope...

rich
Jeroen
here you are...

cheers,

Jeroen
r_towle
Jeroen,
thanx...
God I love the internet....
Open information is awsome...
Here goes
Tony C
After looking at the pic I would recomend AT LEAST 1"X.083tubing. I would still recomend DOM not hot rolled welding tubing.

-Tony
r_towle
Tony,Thanx

Given what you see, is there a lighter way to do this with the following conditions.

I want to get in and out of the car without interference.
I am willing to have the ladder truss running the length of the passenger area, but no more that 2" higher than the rockers.

I could use flat steel like Brad suggested and wrap the inner longitudinal from the inside...
Not sure which will be lighter....

I look at the steel trusses on flat roofs in commercial buildings here in the northeast.
The trusses are made of 1/2" or 5/8" steel rod, 45 degree angles and roughly 16" triangles...

These support alot of snow and roof loads...
Just trying to look at this problem with maybe smaller materials, but more of them...
Like instead of a steel beam...a truss
Instead a 1.5" tube....3 1/2 " tubes DOM of course...

Do you see where Im coming from....

rich
Tony C
Another idea would be to add a piece of flat plate along the top and side of the chassis rails inside the pasenger compartment. I would use 3/16" steel, not exaclty light though. For the tubes I would still recomend at least 1"X.083 if you want them to have any structural significance.
-Tony
r_towle
Cool,
THANX VERY MUCH
Miguel K R
QUOTE(Jeroen @ Jan 3 2003, 04:26 AM) *

here's a pic of how the frame-rail is actually attached to the rear shock tower
(or better, how it is NOT attached)

Cheers,

Jeroen



Hi Jeroen,
I was looking at the thread about Rear Suspension Reinforcement, dating back from 2003 and you posted several photos but I cannot find them.

Do you have the photos available somewhere ?
I looked at your blog with the last posts from 2017 but was not able to find anything about the 914 rear suspension reinforcement.

Can you please give me the link to those photos or send them to mritto@psaplast.com ?

Dank je wel, en tot ziens

Miguel (from Portugal)
Mark Henry
Holy necro thread!
Jeroen hasn't been active on the site in 3 years, he'll likey not see this post.
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