Hey fellas:
I just pulled my fuel lines out this afternoon and they didn't look bad at all...
Oh well, so now I begin the effort to getting the new lines in.
I've scoured the archives and read about a few different alternatives of types
of lines to use.
The PP tech article talks about steel brake lines. I've heard copper is not
a good idea. I heard that the aluminum tubing is a good choice too. Aluminum
sounds to me like it might be the easiest to install, due to not having to use a bender. What about the original plastic type lines. I think I read this is NLA. Is this true?
This looks like a real bitch of a job anyway. Trying to fish the line through the grommets
without being able to see where you're going and that distance - yikes!!...
Is there a final word on what is the best and where did you get the supplies?
Also, any other tips and techniques from those of you that have done this before?
I've read dish soap to help slide the tubing...
Thanks in advance for any help!
Andy...

I'm looking into the black plastic lines that Porsche currently uses on ALL their Porches. I *think* I have a source in the UK that will supply them.

B

My '94 Jetta also has black plastic lines. A trip to the junk yard might yield some compatible lines for the engine compartment and the center tunnel.

thanks guys!!

If you have a center console, remove it, and if you get your head far enuff up to the fire wall, you can actually see where the lines go through the front fire wall. You need to be about as flexible a s a 14 year old russian gymnist, but hey.....

Whatever you do, stay away for those fuel lines Arizona has been using, frikk.



M

Get:
60 inch brake line
90 degree fitting, female each end
grommets
tube bender

Cut two inches off one end. Then, use your tube bender to put a 90 degree bend 3 inches from the "cut end.

Tape the brake line fitting in place with some masking tape. Feed the steel tube through the firewall, "fitting first".

Once the fitting is through the forward-most hole, connect the 90 degree fitting.

Remember the 2 inches you cut off end of the brake line? Hope you didn't throw it away. Connect it to the 90 degree fitting.

Now you have a place, on each end, to connect your fuel lines. You can flare your ends, if you like.

Now, you have a nice steel line in place. Secure the line with grommets at each end. I also took some generic grommets, cut them a bit, and slid them down the brake line, as far as I could push them with a coat hanger. That will help "buffer" the fuel line and protect it against rubbing and vibration.

Over a thousand miles on the car, and it's worked well for me.

Great post Lawrence!

STOP !!

DO NOT USE LB'S method. It will only work for a CARBED car. There is a reason why Porsche used the line size they used on the FEED side of the pump. LB's line is too small for a INJECTION pump. His car has carbs.. which require a lot less fuel at the fuel pump.


B

Thank you.

I check the line about once a week to make sure everything is secure. At some point, I'll quit checking. But, I'd prefer not to let my car burn to the ground.

I should have gotten pics, but I was doing the job to get the car back on the road.

-Rusty

whoooooa nellie. consider myself stopped....hadn't even gotten started.
Thanks for the advice!

It seems like a good idea though....if you incorporated a larger diameter line, would you still run into problems due to the added friction/turbulence from the fittings/connections?

Brad,

I don't know how much fuel line the FI needs, but I used 3/8 inch steel tubing. Seemed pretty big to me at the time.

-Rusty

I dont understand why people dont just pull long lines of fuel injection hose thru the tunnel. If its good enough for the engine compartment enviroment..it will be fine in the center tunnel. Ask Clay Perrine.. he ran injection hose front to back in his wifes car... it hasnt burned a second time.


I wish I would have known you did that LB.. I would have stopped you. Anything larger than a carbed 2.7 and your going to have to replace that line again (3.0's/3.2's need that fat fuel line)



B

You said "brake line"... only semi 18 wheelers use 3/8 "brake line"


Yes. 3/8's is 100% correct.


When you say brake line in general public around 914 guy's.. they will think (stainless braided lines or the hard small 1/4 inch lines that run thru the car)

Had me scared LB.


B

Now I am confused. Since I have to replace the floor pans I am doing the gas lines while I have the tunnel "opened up". I will, eventually, have a 2.7 6 cylinder engine with Weber carbs. What type of material should I use and what diameters?

If there is nothing wrong with your existing fuel lines - don't screw with them.

The existing fuel lines are large enough to feed your 2.7/6.

Has anyone even checked to see if we can still get the lines new from Porsche ??

They are listed in the PET.


B

Hey Brad,

Are you saying that if you are running fuel-injection instead of carbs that you should use a larger line than stock. In my car (912) the steel line that runs through the body I believe is 1/4"...will that be large enough for the fuel consumption of should I plan on running a larger braided line from the front tank to the back? If so, what size do you recommend...-6 or -8? They make long nitrous braided lines that are relatively cheap for the ricer guys, I think that they are -6 or -8.

-Britain

You will need to run no less than 3/8 inch line in your car. I think it is kinda silly (and expensive) to run braided line F-R in your car. We will replace the line in your car with the same thing/method that LB used on his car. You can buy AN fittings for the ends of steel tubing.

FYI: we will have to run a return line in your car also...



B

Is there room to do that down the center tunnel? Is 3/8" line -6 or -8 or -10? How long does it need to be?

-Britain

um.. have you seen the size of your tunnel ?? I'm not telling you what - size 3/8 is... you dont need to know. It will run you 100+ dollars in braided line ONE WAY. Then you have to do the return line.


B