I hope I haven't destroyed my synchros double clutching for a mile... freaking shitty mechanic.



M

uhhhh,,,,,,isn't this garage fodder?

Have one of our mechanics look at it over in the garage.

I used to have one that would eat clutch cables ( busted tube coming out of the tunnel ) When I had to stop I'd just slip it out of gear, and turn the car off. Time to go, put it in third and turn the key.

I put a Neal hydro clutch padal and slave in it and never had a problem again, I loved the clutch in that 914.

QUOTE (Pinepig @ Jan 6 2006, 10:26 PM)

I used to have one that would eat clutch cables ( busted tube coming out of the tunnel ) When I had to stop I'd just slip it out of gear, and turn the car off. Time to go, put it in third and turn the key. I put a Neal hydro clutch padal and slave in it and never had a problem again, I loved the clutch in that 914.

where'd you get that?

Oh my gawd... it's in the garage..

I changed cables over a week ago.. everything looks fine, except the nut on the adjustment end won't stay... it's stripped... I adjust it fine, push in... and back to square one..

SUCK ME NUT CRAP



M

so you have a loose nut, a stripped nut, one nut that wont stay where you put it, or are you having problems with both your nuts?

I would say get some new nuts, nylock and go from there.

Rich

its a wierd nut....smaller than the generic 10mm nut. i think its actually the same wierd thread pitch one thats used on the rocker studs.

b

I can't be on both ends at once.. I heard a quiet sound... I think it may be the tube.

Can you repair a tube by jambing something in the tunnel to hold it in place so you can drive to a repair thingy?


M

Aren't you double nutting it?

chopsticks work great...

four of them with twist ties all over it should work

put it in angles like this

/\
\/

but the middle section should touch the clutch tube.

bubble gum might work either.



b

QUOTE (redshift @ Jan 7 2006, 02:35 PM)

... the nut on the adjustment end won't stay... it's stripped... I adjust it fine, push in... and back to square one..

Did you use one of the standard 13mm wrench-size nuts? Betcha did--sounds like what happened to me when I did that.

You neet to use an M7 nut, 11mm wrench size. Two of them, tightened against each other, and that sucka won't go anywhere! I tired Nyloc, but it didn't hold well enough.

--DD

Gotta BE DA TUBE

Dark:45 out right now.. can you glue the tube in temporarily?



M

if you need to limp it to a shop, just keep it in second gear

b

hahahah RIGHT


M

QUOTE (rick 918-S @ Jan 6 2006, 11:18 PM)

QUOTE (Pinepig @ Jan 6 2006, 10:26 PM) I used to have one that would eat clutch cables ( busted tube coming out of the tunnel )  When I had to stop I'd just slip it out of gear, and turn the car off.  Time to go, put it in third and turn the key. I put a Neal hydro clutch padal and slave in it and never had a problem again,  I loved the clutch in that 914. where'd you get that?

I believe I ordered it fmon CB Performance back in the day, it was a clutch pedal assymbly for a sandrail.

Looked just like this one about halfway down the page.

Click me

Yer gonna get yelled at for yer avatar.

Me?

So, can I epoxy this thing in?



I need to fix it to get it to the fixing place.


M

QUOTE (redshift @ Jan 7 2006, 08:57 PM)

Me?

No pinepig will.

You are safe Mr. Hendrix.

BTW, I know your real name...

Look, I just need one moron to tell me it's ok to adheas-i-ficate.. ( ) the tube monetarnetously.

It's not rocket science, it's one moron's best guess...

Is there not one simpleton among us? Hello, goof! I am talking to you!

Fools need apply.



M

Just drill down from the top of the tunnel and use really long pop rivits. Put enough of them in there and it will hold it in place.............and don't forget to sign your insurance over to me before you drive it again....

Under Canadian law? HAH! Try and get that to stand up in court!



M

QUOTE (Headrage @ Jan 7 2006, 08:32 PM)

Yer gonna get yelled at for yer avatar.

Really, I saw one of shaking boobies ( nude ) earlier.

Some fool... any fool... help.




M

miles adhesive will work just fine.

my car is held together only by duct tape.

try it out.

b, the fool.

The munky has swung!

Ok Brit, be it upon your shoulders, thanks!


M

HEY! ARE THERE ANY OTHER M7 11mm NUTS ANYWHERE ON THE CHASSIS THAT I CAN USE IN A PINCH?

HEY! I SAID!!

Something is fruity.

Are there any?


M

eeemergency

miles,

you can feel the clutch tube with the end of your fingers through the heater lever hole....

sitting in the car, with the heater lever out of the way (the one next to the shifter)
push the clutch in and out...if you feel the tube move or rattle, you then need to figure out where that is happening.

Brad did a detailed article on how to fix it..

If you cant weld, look at that article, you will see the measurements to locate where the tube is in the middle tunnel.
I am sure you could cut open the tunne in the same location and fasten/glue the tube in at that location to solve that problem...

The nut...I would say look for one in the front as your ground for the lights...
Or possibly you could use one from the windshield wiper assembly...

I seem to remember those being an odd size

If what you need to do is take your car, with the stripped nut to a shop, I might suggest that you epoxy the existing nut in the correct position, and let it harden for 24 hrs....that might let you shift a dozen times or so before it gets loose.

Rich

NONONO!

I JUST need M7 11mm nuts, or something that will fake it until I can drive to a place that has M7 11mm nuts..

It was secured with 13mm nuts since I had it, apparently...

Are there no more (m7 11mm) anywhere on my car?


Autozone has a 10mm M7, guess that won't work huh?


Oh! Light grounds! Thanks! Looking!




M

If the problem isn't the tube - but just the nut being the wrong size...
Try these guys 4 a source of metric fasteners. They have it all -

http://www.metricspecialties.com/

look on the lever/arm that makes the lights go up and down...that one might work also.

R

No joy... good lord have mercy... I want to kill someone.

This is WAY screwing me up. Been unemployed forever, and now I miss an appointment.... guess unemployed is my bag.

So, M7 is the nut size, and 11 is how many threads per MM?



M

year of car...

I will go find you a nut...

There must be one more on the car somewhere...

Rich

Thanks to club member FIBES!!!

Have a few on the way around 5:30! Thanks for wittnessing the meltdown!!!



M

NP, better than TV some days...

R

Success! Thanks for looking around Mr. Rich. I have some spares now!

I need extra everything!



M

The nuts that hold the rocker arm shafts onto the cylinder head are M7, but you don't wanna remove those... Not sure of any others off the top of my head.

The "11" is the size of the wrench that you use. The full spec is something like M7x0.5 (where the 0.5 means 0.5mm between threads). I don't know if 0.5 is the correct thread pitch or not--but there is one common one, and that's the one you use.

Get the nuts from your local hardware store. It doesn't matter which size wrench you need to use on them, as long as the threaded hole is correct for the application.

--DD

QUOTE (Dave_Darling @ Jan 19 2006, 06:37 PM)

The nuts that hold the rocker arm shafts onto the cylinder head are M7, but you don't wanna remove those... Not sure of any others off the top of my head. The "11" is the size of the wrench that you use. The full spec is something like M7x0.5 (where the 0.5 means 0.5mm between threads). I don't know if 0.5 is the correct thread pitch or not--but there is one common one, and that's the one you use. Get the nuts from your local hardware store. It doesn't matter which size wrench you need to use on them, as long as the threaded hole is correct for the application. --DD

unless you have upgraded those POS small ones that strip easy to the bigger studs.



Hi Miles

yeah I ended up using one of the rocker arm shaft nuts.

speaking of nuts, you might be able to train a squirrel to operate the clutch for you.

b

The correct size is M7x1.0. Get two and lock them against each other so the adjustment doesn't move.


And the front end of the clutch tube can be clamped down with a u-bolt. Pull the shifter and you can see it.


But I would consider that a temporary fix.