I want to make a good showing at my first SCCA National Runoffs so I decided to upgrade my backup engine. (I don't have a real race engine right now.) I'm installing my 94mm Nickies set

and the JE pistons with stock dome shape.

*Drool*

Chris - I held the first EVER set of Nikkies, they went on Shad's car - I help him build his motor! They are amazing pieces of equipment. Very light!

And you do nice exhaust work too, my friend...

Later,
Tom

I got some stainless valves and decided it was time I started learning how to port my own heads.

I'm having a lot of fun doing this.

It's important to know where NOT to remove material

Oops! It's a good thing I know a talented welder

Thanks Tom. I'm looking forward to building the header for Shad's first set of Porkies heads with 2" primaries. (if he ever finishes them)

Nice stuff!

Let's see, the Runoffs are in about two weeks at Mid-Ohio right? I'll bet there are a few club members in that area that would be willing to help you push that thing off the trailer.

Chris,
Tell me about your fan set up. I've read the discription on you website, but what are the advantages?
More air?
Lighter than the stock fan and housing?
Drains less HP?

What gives?

Wish I was going to the Runoffs. Good Luck!!

Paul

The Corvair fan setup wasn't my idea, but when I saw it I was immediately attracted to the design.
It is way lighter than the stock system and most of the features of the stock system are superfluous on a race car. I don't have the stock oil cooler or the heat exchangers or an alternator. I don't need to preheat the engine either.
I don't know if it actually cools better or draws less power - wish I had known Raby was doing a comparative test of cooling systems recently. I would have made an extra effort to supply him with one of my setups for his testing. I do know it works fine at keeping head temps under control, and I have won races. So it isn't drawing too much power for me at this stage.
One possible shortcoming is that it must run at 1 to 1 speed off the crankshaft, but so does the stock system.
I never liked the idea of using the modified 911 cooling setup. For one reason the alternator is the fan hub. SCCA rules require the alternator, if used, to be in the stock location. Also it draws a lot of power and pushes too much air, but not uniformly over all 4 cylinders.
If I had known about the DTM when I built my Prod car, I might have gone that route. However I really like the low profile of the flat fan, and I am reminded of 917 cooling systems with the horizontal fan.
Thanks!

The more I see guys tearing their engines apart, the more I think, "Gee, I could fail at that!".



I like the hz cooling, do you know of anyone with it on a 914/6? I have a friend with a 935 that has it, but it's crammed in there with too much other stuff to imagine it fitting in a 914.


M

Good luck, Chris.
What class? gt3?4?5?

chris,
When you run without the alternater is just a matter of taking it off? There is probably 20 pounds there. Do you run a racing dry cell long life battery?

Paul

F Production. There are 5 914s entered this year, out of about 38 cars. Three of them are from my division (Northeast).


The alternator is long gone. I don't have much wiring in the car Paul, no relay board either. The car starts with the same column mounted key switch that the car came with. I cut down the stock fuse panel to 3 fuses and mounted it in plain sight on my auxillary gauge panel. The fuel pressure and oil temp gauges are mechanical. The only significant draws on the battery are: starter, fuel pump, ignition and brake lights. I have been using a Pertronix and Bosch blue coil, but I'm switching to a Mallory Unilite with Mallory coil. I've heard that MSD type ignitions don't like running on low voltage. My voltage is typically around 11v, except right after a recharge.
The battery is a regular 914 battery (group 42?), mounted inside a marine container. I have a big grey disconnect on wires from the battery that hooks up to a connector on my charger. I usually run the charger for 15-30 min after each on-track session. I killed the battery at a PCA autocross one time with two drivers. Too many times using the starter.

I have not replaced any panels with fiberglas yet, still have the stock windshield, and will have 60 lbs of ballast on the passenger floor to meet the minimum of 2020 with driver (approx. 230lb). The car has almost perfect left to right balance now.


I've seen pics (PPBBS last year maybe) of a gear driven horizontal fan for a 6 but don't know much about them, and haven't seen one up close. I did look at the 917 fans at the first Rennsport Reunion. I think the drive shaft comes up through the center of the crankcase on them.

Yep. We ran a FAT 911 upright setup with a gutted 911 alternator and just plug the car in between rounds to the charger. I also learned to take a jump box with me to grid so the car doesnt really use its own power to start when the 2 or 5 minute warning sounds and we need to fire it.


B

I've also striped all the wiring down to the minimum. And I have three fuses in a marine type fuse block. Fuel pump and gauges are all that I run, no brake lights (autox only). I still have the circuit board. If I remove the alt. I guess I could remove the circuit board, but I'd need to keep the voltage reg somehow. I plan on running a dry cell lightweight battery like this one below. I lot lighter (15 lbs) than a stock battery. I'll install some of those quick connect jumper posts like the drag race guys use if I need to start it on the grid.

The voltage regulator is useless without an alternator since the voltage will never be much above 12v and will drop a bit as the battery loses charge. The reg. won't help keep the voltage up. Just ditch the whole shebang.
Using a jump box will be very important for starting if your battery is much smaller than stock.

when my GTI's alternator failed i drove home from an autocross on just the battery - 3 hrs. used the brake as little as possible (handbrake mostly), shut down everything optional, didn't use turn signals. basically just fuel pump and ignition - i think i had enough airspeed that the rad fans didn't cycle in.

10V indicated when i got home, everything running just fine. you might be surprised...

MSD quotes (8volts) to run their ignition.

We talk about running a battery dead...and some of the drag cars I worked on had 16 volt ignition systems and would drain the 12 volt battery in about 3 seconds when all the Nitrous solenoids and gas solenoids where activated along with a both fuel pumps. Crazy stuff running a 16 volt battery on the ignition system. We had to run a alternator.


B

I finished prepping my heads. The combustion chambers have about 38.5 cc volume.

and installed my special valve springs to check the piston to valve clearance.

The intake valves interfered by about 80 thousandths so I made a fixture to cut reliefs.

Here are the finished pistons. With .040" deck height the compression ratio will be about 11.4 to 1.

look nice!

I temporarily installed the heads and checked the rocker geometry. I ordered a set of custom chrome-moly pushrods 1mm shorter than stock to optimize the valve lift and minimize valve guide side pressure. I am using swivel feet and recessed them into the rocker so there will be some adjustment available.

I thought about using my specially modified rockers, but will probably save them for the next engine.

The ends of the valve adjusters have to be shortened so they don't hit the valve covers. I still have to check the rings to make sure the gap is correct. Then I'll clean everything and assemble. Hopefully the engine will be done this weekend and back in the car before my dyno appointment Tuesday morning.

You should at least knock the casting flash off the other rockers and polish them up.


I see you like to flycut to the point that the combustion chamber becomes one with the holes for the exhaust studs....LOL


Looks great man. Should run like a champ.


B

Hey Chris. what are you using to repair the heads with? Can you use a small Tig for the aluminum? I got one at work and have not tried it yet for aluminum....I do understand that you need high frequency though.....

When you get to the run0ffs, look up Bruce Allen from New Hampshire....He was running as one of my early instructors and now has a new respect for the 914.....He is running formula continental I think.....

Good luck!!! Herb

Brad,
Yeah, I am working on the rockers more today. They will be better looking before long, but I'm not going to lighten them much.
This was my first time filling the back of the stud hole. I don't think I actually flycut deep enough to hit them, but took precautionary measures just the same.

Herb,
You need at least 150 amps of AC with continuous high frequency to make the heat required to weld thick sections of aluminum like heads or crankcases. I have read that some new machines work well with DC current for aluminum but haven't seen it in operation. Aluminum welds so differently from steel and takes mucho practice to do it well.
I don't see Bruce on the final entry list. Only Phil Lombardi from New Hampshire, #33FC.

Thanks.

Chris, have you finished your oil cooler ducting? How about a pic of the finished product.....

Chris,

Thanks for all the great photos. Nice work. Now, with your and Brad's comments, I understand how a deep flycut can get into the exhaust studs. Jake had explained that to me but I didn't really visualize it before.

Best of luck at the run-offs. I wish I was going. A good friend of mine from Virginia is running a car for his son in FV, Bill and Justin Barker, and they wanted me to join their group. I should have planned better!

Mike

It's not quite finished yet, but here's a good look:

Excuse my ignorance but...wouldn't it be better to have the intake ducts lower on the car. I seem to remember that hot air rises. It seems to me that you would be creating undue turbulence with the hot air attempting to exit where the cool air is coming in. Would the cool air ever get to the cooler?

Paul, both those ducts are inlets and in a high pressure area on the front of the car. The primary outlet is directly below the cooler - the two plugs in the floor are removed, as well as the small holes in the front of the trunk which are behind the airdam, therefore in a low pressure area. As far as heat rising, it won't have much choice with the ram-air effect at 100mph.
I'm somewhat constrained by rules, which is why I'm changing the previous configuration in the first place. Even removing the floor plugs may be somewhat debatable as to legality. BTW, I'm not allowed to duct the exit air, or at least extremely limited.

What sorta HP are you getting?
And what is your red line or shift RPM?

Great pixs

Paul

I'll post that after my dyno session next Tuesday. I'm hoping for 110-120hp at the flywheel for this combo. I'm not using a race cam, and this will become my third tier engine when I have the funds to assemble an all out screamer and a primary backup as well.
I was shifting at about 6200 before the upgrades, with redline at 6500.

Maf.. this is exactly why I shoot pics. I can talk all day... but to show you is where you will learn the most.


Chris.. I may have a cam for you on the next engine (the cam) you could run the LN lifters against it and build out from there. Your new shift chip will be 8k and you will need much bigger cooler(s). The one you have now just barely cools our stock 2.0 engines.


B

Brad,
I have a couple of Elgin cams designed just for my application. One of them works up to 8k. But, I'm open to suggestions.


I did a little more head work on the milling machine. I like to use an aircraft CHT sensor which requires a special hole.

Here's the head being drilled.

The block is ready for the top end assembly.

I think I have everything clean and ready, so here goes!

Are all those pully's and angles for the belt inefficient?

chris, got a picture of your carb linkage installed? what's the brand? looks pretty stout.

kevin

nope.

Assembly complete. Installation tomorrow. Dyno Tuesday.

The linkage was purchased with a set of 40IDFs back in the '80s by my brother Charley. It came from Red Lion in CA. (don't think they are around anymore)

red lion? could it have been red-line? red line is like the west coast weber distributor

Chris.. dont mean to be a nit pick.. but you dont *really* run rubber tranny mounts do you ??



B