We're to the point of routing the FI wiring and hoses. We'll cut new hoses once we get them all situated.

Does any one have any good pictures of the engine with the Air filter off that would show where the wires/hoses are suppose to sit?

Thanks progress is being made!!!!

Some pics for you to gawk at..

Yes very fresh.. havent taken masking off..

Sorry, its a little blurry..
Like the color scheme?
That pic is where I am right now..

Andy was with me today..



B

Huh?

I was not with you..

But the other andy maybe.. Let me reiterate..

Huh?

Andrew

Never mind about the picture. I think this one will tell us what we need to know. (but the more the merrier (easier))

Daddie DanD

WOW! Andy i'm jealous of your battery tray and engine! I hope my teener's engine area turn's out so nice.
Eric

P.S.
That's some fast metal work. Wasn't it a week ago you posted rotted pic's?

Yup that was pretty fast repair.. I spent alot of time doing this, and for about 5 days now I havent been doing anything else but getting the car ready.. Unfortunately it seems that I wont be getting my caliper pistons in time (susposed to be here friday.. not here yet, and I dont think that USPS delivers monday..), so even though it seems all in vein, I still have alot of work done. Hey I have a rear handbrake, I aint need no stinkin front brakes!!

Hummm..... YES.... You Do!

I'm not riding in that thing with just a handbrake.

you removed the pad too, nice. doing mine gave me much satisfaction with the finnished product. but like mine you forgot to clean the bottom of the engine lid. i looked and looked, something was wrong. pull and clean that mother.

kevin

Nice job. Now you need to come out here and fix mine for me. My battery area isn't quite as bad as yours was but still needs repair.

Andrew, is that motor pic from a Porsche brochure? If not, I'd be interested to know where you got vacuum hoses that are the right colors and everything!

BTW, if you're still looking for more "where do the hoses go" info, check on Pelican's site.

--DD

Yes dave, that is a pic of a pic.. the orange on black is mine.. I cant remember where I took a pic of the factory engine..

Oh and thanks, I already printed the "Daves hose diagram" and am using it for reference..

Andrew


edit, I hate switching computers...

Alright, after a days work, we have the engine and trani all mounted, valves checked to speck.. some other things done in relation to it.

Left to do, is

Change trani oil
Change engine oil
finish the wireing on the engine and so forth
Install the harnesses
rebuild calipers (after I get them tues )
Align the car good enough to drive.
Bleed the brakes

And some other minor things..

Today we had a long brake, only worked for about 5 hours..

Andrew

Here is a hose layout
Geoff

Geoff make a new thread with that pic and let's get it into the "Classic" section.
Very good info for folks!

YES! How about a pic for the 1.7 and 1.8 ?
Eric

Geoff,
Thanks for the labeling. It helps confirm what we thought we knew.

A question for the group. Where does the vaccum advance plug into? It looks like it plugs into the throttle body on the diagrams. Is that true or does it plug into the intake under the throttle body?

Thanks,
DanD

I forgot my main point. His throttle body doesn't have a fitting. It's just a blank. You can kinda see it in the picture above.

It plugs into the throttle body only on 73 throttle bodies. On later cars Porsche plugged or didn't install the port on the Throttle body. You can install a port to install the vacuum advance hose. This helps the engine have alittle more umph at lower rpms.
If its not there just leave the hose hanging off the dizzy.

Geoff

Ya, this FI came from a 75 I think. So one of our projects down the road will be to drill for the advance. Probably a smog thing.

Any other gotchas we need to worry about on using a later FI?

For those who didn't know. We bought this car with Weber 34s. Andrew decided to go back to stock.

You say that like its a bad thing. I wanted a little more than 60 hp.. give me the 90 stock hp.

Geof, thanks for all your helpful info, it will all help a whole heck of alot.

Thanks,
Andrew

Match the ECU, MPS, and the CHT if they don't you will have some minor problems like crappy idle or the worst case- too lean and drop valve seats.

What are the #'s??

Geoff

Everything came off the same car. ECU, MPS, (what's a CHT?), But basically, it's off the same car. We're using the distributor from the 73 2.0 and the relay board off the 73 and that's about it. That brings me to the next questions.

How do these wires hook up to the distributor? Only one was hooked up when we had it running.

The next question (probably not the last) has to do with these wires to the relay board. The red wire comes from the alternator and the green/red wire are cut and are on the harness under the relay board.

Well, we figured out from the wiring diagram that the red wire goes to the starter. Still working on the gr/rd wire...


The distributor has a smaller black wire, apparently the big black wire goes to the neg side of the coil and the small black wire goes to the positive side of the coil.

The green/red wire goes to the oil sending unit??

White ??

Ahh, CHT, Cylinder head temp. May need to order one of these to match the 75 system. That was one of the things that didn't come with the system we bought.

Sorry for all the questions, but we really appreciate all the help..
Thanks all!

Looks like the white wire goes to the Supplimentary air valve. Is that the same as the AAR valve?

The red/green should be the heater fan booster.
The white wire should go to the AAR valve.

Well time is ticking down and we're not done. I guess we'll just get a 50cal machine gun and fill it full of lead.

Misfits

Maybe not.

We got a lot done, but the factory fuel lines were plugged solid. We need to run some replacements. Plus the brake calipers didn't arrive yet and that will keep the Junior in HS from driving his Porsche to the first day of school. Oh well, we're a LOT further than if we didn't attempt it. Maybe by the weekend.

Thanks for all the help, Especially Geoff!!!

try 100 lbs of air on those lines to clean them out, worked for me.

Geoff

The first pic, those wires appear to all be in the "engine wiring harness". That is the one that plugs into the 12-pin connector on the right-rear of the relay board. There should be a somewhat-thick black wire that connects to coil (+) and supplies +12V when the ignition switch is on. There should also be a thinner black/purple wire (the purple fades and can be tough to see) that connects to the coil (-) terminal and is the tach signal wire. The green/red hooks up to the oil light sender just aft of the distributor. And the white one hooks to the AAR (yes, supplemental air valve is another name for it).

The other wires are all alternator-related. The alternator should have four wires coming from it. One harness with red, green, and black wires, and a separate big thick red wire. You've already found that the thick red wire goes to the starter, same terminal that the fat cable from the battery fits on. (That's the primary charging path, alt->starter->batt.) The other three wires connect to the relay board by a plug. Looks like you have the plug on your board but the harness was cut.


[EDIT!] Oh, uh... Nope! On second look, those two wires in the second pic are the two wires to the heater blower motor. That would live in the left-front corner of the engine bay on a metal stand on 73+ cars. 70-72 1.7s had the blower in the middle on a bracket bolted to the engine fan housing.

--DD

Day 8 - Jesse would have blown this one up for sure. Thank goodness we have a bit more patience.

Well we tried 100psi and it worked for the large tube, but the small one is just too gummed up to be used. Tried jamming a coathanger down there and still wouldnt' budge, It's now history. Have a couple of brake lines per Pelican tech tip. We'll Monster up a fuel system and get it running soon. (after he POR15s the channel).

DaveD, Right on brother... Just confirmed everything I was guessing,. Except I guessed wrong on the big and little black wire, and I couldn't find the oil sending unit because our new breather hose was hiding it. All is well wiring wise. (except for a couple wierd ones under the car...Hmmm)

WWIT (while we're in there), we decided it would be a good time to install the front sway bar since the fuel tank is out. Not sure how it mounts on the inside. The top two bolts seem fine, but the bottom one goes thru a double wall about 1.5" deep. Is that normal? Just use a long bolt? The picts I've seen show a notch cut out for the bottom bolt. Andyrew, (do I have to call you that on this board?) Can you post that picture you found?

Here is how andy did it.. I am guessing this is the accepted way of practice since I am also guessing it was done at brads shop..



Just cruzin through andy's pics and saw it..

Andrew

Thats how you install the front sway bar if the car doesn't have the factory mount.
Geoff

Does anyone have a picture of the factory sway bar from the fuel tank side?
I've seen a few from the wheel well side.

Andy spent the big bucks and bought aftermarket...

They are done the same way... the bottom bolt is hidden (Nuts welded to chassis).


B

Ok, day hmmm. must be about 10 by now..

Pistons came in from sunny Florida yesterday. The only problem is they were surrounded by these UGLY calipers. We spend hours trying everything to get them out. Finally got one out and were releved to find it in good condition. (we thought they would be pitted to death).

Spend a couple more hours tonight. Then it dawned on me. Cut the suckers in half! So we did. 45 mins later they were all out. We cut until we were within a few mm of breaking through. Then hammered them apart. Worked like a charm.

So, there is not a plate on the inside. Just 3 bolt holes and the large hole acording to the template.

I suppose we can cut a notch like Andy did to put a bolt on the bottom.

Thanks Brad.

Here's a cross section of a caliper for someone who was wondering what it looks like. Well, at least I was..

That looks like a lot of effort. Did you try compressed air? You could have wrapped a rag around it hooked it up to the car & pumped the brakes.

130psi did nothing. we did that for a day (seriously) and only one piston out.. Acutally not much work. maybe 10 mins each (sawing)...

We got them out and im happy.. car WILL run sunday. I guarantee it

Tried everything. Eventually would have gotten them out, just got tired and frustrated.

Didn't try on the car, the brakes weren't even close to applying pressure. We would have had to install old calipers and bleed the entire system before we'd have any brake pressure. Plus the seals around the pistons were leaking air. It would move a bit from the compressor, then we would push it back in and try again. Each time it moved a bit more.

It's actually quite easy to cut in half. But, it kinda ruins the calipers.

hey go to bed!

But, "I feel like dancin, ya ya ya"



Fine

I agree, it's a school night.

Alright, everything is ready to roll (except the brakes, will do tonight..), so we tryed to start it.. well at first it wouldnt turn over, period. checked some things, then dad found something not put in all the way. Next it turns over, but know it doesnt fire, and I dont hear the fuel pump, and it looks like it leaked ( ), so we checked for spark and the wires arnt getting any spark, what things should we check for troubleshooting?

Anything helps,

Andrew

Alright, maybe your stumped.. heres some more info, We have been trying the fuel pump, and we dont seem to be getting any power to the pump. Any clues?
Thanks

Andrew

Ok, jumping the fuel pump relay, we get 12 volts to the pump, but no action out of the pump. Plus the pump is seeping fuel.

Still troubleshooting...