I bought 3/8" and 5/16" (2 each 60" and 40") brake lines to use for replacing my plastic fuel lines. I'm following the pelican fuel line replacement how to. However i'd rather not use a 90 deg bend and increase the # of fitting in the system.

Can I just bend the brake lines using proper tooling? The auto part store sells one for around $30. With this significantly reduce the flow? Has anyone here followed the pelican how to? Is the 60" line long enough to feed through the tunnel and leave 2-3" at the firewall side for this 90 deg bend?

Thanks

I have been considering this myself and also had a question about that bit.

It said that using lots of brackets is a good idea as the SS fuel line will work and enventually crack. But in the center tunnel there is no support. Wouldn't it be much more likely to crack in the tunnel?

Sorry for the but this has been somehting I have been curious about for quite some time.

Zach

I used mild steel brake lines in 60" and 40" lengths for Babydoll. The 60" line is perfect for the tunnel, and the 40" line is perfect for the engine compartment. I used brass 90 degree flare fittings at the firewall... probably not an optimal solution, but easy to do and I get 30 psi fuel pressure, so I figure it's OK.

I also used 5/16" lines for both the feed and return lines... with a slightly warmed over D-jet 2.0, I figured that the fuel lines wouldn't be a bottleneck, plus it was a lot easier to fit the rubber lines onto a 5/16" tube than to a 3/8" tube.

Oh yeah, I used an $8 tubing bender from Harbor Freight. You don't need one for brake lines, but it makes the bends more accurate, especially when you're snaking a line around the edge of the engine compartment.

QUOTE (zymurgist @ Feb 9 2006, 10:25 AM)

I used mild steel brake lines in 60" and 40" lengths for Babydoll. The 60" line is perfect for the tunnel, and the 40" line is perfect for the engine compartment. I used brass 90 degree flare fittings at the firewall... probably not an optimal solution, but easy to do and I get 30 psi fuel pressure, so I figure it's OK. I also used 5/16" lines for both the feed and return lines... with a slightly warmed over D-jet 2.0, I figured that the fuel lines wouldn't be a bottleneck, plus it was a lot easier to fit the rubber lines onto a 5/16" tube than to a 3/8" tube. Oh yeah, I used an $8 tubing bender from Harbor Freight. You don't need one for brake lines, but it makes the bends more accurate, especially when you're snaking a line around the edge of the engine compartment.

The fuel pump has 1 3/8" (9mm) connection and 2 5/16" (7mm) connections correct? The stock fuel railes are 5/16 (7mm) right?

Someone correct me if i'm wrong but fuel pressure is not the only correct indicator of fuel supply. If you increase the diameter of your fuel line the keep your pressure the same the volume flowed will increase significantly.

Approx how much power is the stock fuel pump and 5/16" (7mm) fuel line at the engine side good for?

In the tunnel there are manual clamps to hold the lines in place, so i hear. I haven't started the job yet.

I found a nice inexpensive tubing bender.

yarin - are you planning on taking the engine out?

not planning on it.

what's the hardest part of doing the job with the engine in? snaking the lines through the tunnel or mounting against the firewall? I don't recall if the engine mount bar gets in the way. does it?

If I tie some wire to the stock lines before pulling them out, can't i pull the new lines from the front(with a little force of course)?

Actually I wanted to know because I am planning on doing the line replacement as well but i don't want to take out the engine. Mainly because I will have to put it back in there at some point.

From what I can gather it is only easier with the engine out becasue you won't have to push the rigid SS lines into the tunnel at angle and you can insert them straight in.

As for the wire - I think someone threaded a medium gauge wire through the stock plastic lines and attached it to the front of the car. This way once you pull the plastic lines you will have a guide to run the new lines on. I like your idea of pulling the lines with another piece of wire though . . .

Either way, this is going to be a PITA. I was thinking about just running some replacement plastic tubing instead of SS to make it easier. I figure it is good for at least another 15~20 years right????

QUOTE (mcbain77 @ Feb 9 2006, 10:58 AM)

Actually I wanted to know because I am planning on doing the line replacement as well but i don't want to take out the engine. Mainly because I will have to put it back in there at some point. From what I can gather it is only easier with the engine out becasue you won't have to push the rigid SS lines into the tunnel at angle and you can insert them straight in. As for the wire - I think someone threaded a medium gauge wire through the stock plastic lines and attached it to the front of the car. This way once you pull the plastic lines you will have a guide to run the new lines on. I like your idea of pulling the lines with another piece of wire though . . . Either way, this is going to be a PITA. I was thinking about just running some replacement plastic tubing instead of SS to make it easier. I figure it is good for at least another 15~20 years right????

Actually I like YOUR idea better.. That does sound good as well. I'll figure it all out once the weather warms up a little. No heat in the garage, too cold for me

I figure if you are gonna do it, do it right. In the event of an accident or mishap plastic is going to give way first. SS is harder to bend than regular mild steel brand lines anyway.

QUOTE (yarin @ Feb 9 2006, 01:40 PM)

The fuel pump has 1 3/8" (9mm) connection and 2 5/16" (7mm) connections correct? The stock fuel railes are 5/16 (7mm) right? Someone correct me if i'm wrong but fuel pressure is not the only correct indicator of fuel supply. If you increase the diameter of your fuel line the keep your pressure the same the volume flowed will increase significantly. Approx how much power is the stock fuel pump and 5/16" (7mm) fuel line at the engine side good for? In the tunnel there are manual clamps to hold the lines in place, so i hear. I haven't started the job yet. I found a nice inexpensive tubing bender.

I don't know how well the fuel situation is for Babydoll... I can't get the car to start, but that's because it has 3 bad injectors. Based on articles I have read on the net, I figured that 5/16" would be sufficient for a stock motor, even with a 90 degree bend.

More on the fuel system layout... the fuel pump was relocated to the front (by a previous owner), above the pan where the steering is. The pump has three 5/16" nipples, and the fuel tank has one 3/8" and one 5/16" nipple. I used a VW fuel filter with one 3/8" nipple and one 5/16" nipple to connect the tank to the fuel pump. So all of the lines I'm dealing with between the pump and the engine are 5/16".

I did all this with the engine out.

How about this one?

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product...tubnig%20bender



Same thing is $31 at the auto parts store...

Looks good to me. For $6 that's even less than what I paid at Harbor Freight. The tools are of different designs, but this one looks like it will do the job.