Spring driving in Massachusetts is a few months away.
So I decided to remove the motor and fix the hell-hole rust.
I could be in way over my head.
Here's what I've done so far.
(several pics to follow)

Can you guys show me exactly what I need to do next?

How much more should I cut out?
How much surface rust do I need to grind away? Some of hell-hole repair pictures I've seen posted show shiny metal on the longs and inner fender. I don't think I could every get mine like that.

another, closer

in order to get a good weld, you have to grind to good metal....

b

long and inner fender from engine bay

View through passenger fire wall

closer

Standard disclosure: not related to or part of his business!!!!

That said go to parts and resources and look up engman.....

Repair kit for csob, hell hole and inner long stiffener....!!!


Have used the inner stifferner, sway bar piece, pedal board etc etc.. all wonderful products....

inside long

Hey Moneysmarts

You want to get as much rust out of there as possible or it's just going to come back later.

Where in central mass are you located? I have a near perfect firewall that is already cut out that I can sell you pretty cheap. It would save you some of the fabrication work patching that hole. As for the hell hole there are a few good threads that have some detailed pictures. I'll see if I can find them and post the links.

Leominster

Hey,
I am in Groton.
Come by, ill walk you through it, or give me a call.

do you have a welder?
Do you have a grinder?
Do you have a sand blaster?

You will need a grinder and a welder minimum...
Its two days work.

Go to a local sheet metal shop and get some sheets of steel to replace what is cut out.
Get some POR 15 and some metal ready primer (zinc primer) that you can weld through.

Take off the rocker covers, get it up in the air high..on jack stands...and make sure your door gaps are good.

The rest is cut/fit/cut/fit/cut/fit till its perfect.

Choose now if you want concourse quality, or not...
If you want it perfect, get the correct replacement parts from restoration design...used, or engman...

Rich

Rich

Hi Rich:
No welder. No sand blaster.
I would consider buying a welder , but would have no other use for it except this job.
Concourse is not necessary.
Just want a solid repair.
The outer longs are perfect.
Door gaps are perfect.
Just the one bad section that you see.
Steve

you can rent a welder from a tool rental place...the one near MAKI has them.

Look up a thread by Rocket...we just finished that car...it was worse than yours.

Or, you can hire someone to fix it up for you.

Rich

borrow, steal or otherwise lay your hands on a welder, or Racerchris in CT can do the work.. Cheapest bet hook up with another 914'teener.. Beer , food, parts and car is fixed!!

I thought I'd be able to cut and grind the bad stuff.
Then make some 18 guage patches.
Then look for someone to MIG them in.
If I couldn't find a reasonable price for the welding, then I thought I might give it a whirl.

But, after getting in there, I don't know what is OK to leave, and what must come out.

I'm about to do some cutting, welding, etc. Last june when I bought the car I thought it didn't have
any rust issues. That was before I found this board and new what to look for. From what I know it really is a matter of cutting any rust out that you can't grind out or that's too far progressed to treat.
You need clean metal to weld to (this means clean on BOTH sides. Do searches on rust repairs- there are many excellet threads. I have learned something from ALL of them.

Here's my favorite:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...=2&t=16748&st=0

You must take it all back to "good" metal or your just asking for trouble.

I had problems in the same area.

See my progress thread below for details.

Todd:
I just looked at your progress thread.
It looks like you didn't have to grind all the surface rust from the hell hole before you welded a patch.
Based on those pics, I'm not that far off with my longs.
Thoughts?

You could try removing the top layer of pitted steel on top of the long. The steel underneath on mine was solid, so I cut a piece to replace the top, with a flange to attach to the upper wheelhouse. You've got a hunk of the inner layer missing (shaded area). I think it's thicker than the top sheet metal. I'd replace it then cover the top with a piece. I think the Engman kit uses 16 awg here so maybe it could work. If you cut the pieces and fit them well you could have someone weld it in. You'd want to clean around the areas to be welded as best you can; wire wheel, sanding wheel, media blast, whatever to get to bare clean steel. Engman kit could be big enough for upper wheelhouse. I used a RD piece that worked well.
Ed

My "Hello Hole" was worse. See how I fixed it?
Metal Fabbers, report.

KT