Well, I got closer to road ready with a new clutch.

Then on further inspection, I found the driver side rear swing arm has a bad bushing. The shiny part of the suspension ear shows how the trailing arm has been moving around. The blue screwdriver is in a hole in the metal caused by the movement of the arm at the pickup point.

This puts me in a real predicament since I have a 5-lug suspension to put on the car but have at least a month or more of work (at my pace) on the wheels (strip, polish, paint), install suspension, flare fenders, and I want to get the car on the road ASAP.

Question: How hard is it to replace a bushing? I'm thinking of repairing just this one bad bushing. Are any special tools required?

Maybe one of my local 914 brothers has a spare swing arm that I can "borrow" for a couple of months. Perhaps we can swap some parts.

Spoke

you cant get rubber bushings....

the alternatives are
Poly (weltmeisters)
Poly Bronze (elephant racing)
Roller bearings (mueller)
delrin (racer chris)


so there is a hole in the bushing? or a hole in the mounting ear?
make sure your suspension ear is not ovaled....

I have a set of the Poly (weltmeisters) type for front and rear. If your interested PM me.

After 30 years I'd be willing to bet the bushing is shot. I'd also be willing to bet that's not your main problem.

I don't think it (a worn bushing) would allow that much travel. I'm going out on a limb and say that the hole in your suspension ear is ovaled.

E.

QUOTE (Eric_Shea @ Feb 28 2006, 01:41 PM)

After 30 years I'd be willing to bet the bushing is shot. I'd also be willing to bet that's not your main problem. I don't think it (a worn bushing) would allow that much travel. I'm going out on a limb and say that the hole in your suspension ear is ovaled. E.

That was my first thought, that the nut was loose and wobbling around. The nut is as tight as a good .... Oops, almost said something I might regret. Well, suffice to say that the nut is very tight and there is a tremendous amount of play in the arm. There are bits and pieces of bushing in that area.

How hard to put these things on? Special tools required? Maybe just a BFH?

Tweeks Rear Suspension Bushing

Thanks,
Spoke

You need:
A blowtorch to melt the old bushing
A long stick that fits inside the arm to push the shaft out, OR
A pair of vice-grips that you clamp onto the shaft nut and pull
Some gloves

It isn't necessary to disconnect the half-shaft. But it definitely helps. You will need to disconnect the brake hose.

I'd put it in the three hour range, per side. It depends which bushings you put in and how long you want them to last. I used Elephant bushings, so I didn't have to worry about bushing-to-shaft fitting, since Elephant comes with its own shaft.

Do BOTH sides.

My bushing experience

QUOTE (turbo914v8 @ Feb 28 2006, 01:38 PM)

I have a set of the Poly (weltmeisters) type for front and rear. If your interested PM me.

I'm looking to replace just the one bad bushing. In a month or 2, I'll be removing all stock suspension pieces and installing 5-lug suspension which is sitting in the garage. If I can replace this one bad bushing, I'll do that. Otherwise, time to install the 5-lug stuff although I'm not ready to do the 5 yet.

Since a single bushing is less than $10, my question is can I do the change without special tools?

Thanks,
Spoke

QUOTE (Spoke @ Feb 28 2006, 11:03 AM)

that the nut was loose and wobbling around. The nut is as tight as a good ....

i'd still check on that ...

you have to take the trailing arm off anyways, so make sure the shaft hasn't worn out the hole. it should be a schnugg fit ...

oval suspension mounting holes suck!
Andy

QUOTE (Spoke @ Feb 28 2006, 11:19 AM)

my question is can I do the change without special tools?

BFH and something to cut the remains of the old bushing out of the arm.

and maybe a welder and dremel if your hole is oval ...
Andy

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Feb 28 2006, 11:20 AM)

oval suspension mounting holes suck! Andy

Is there a repair if they are?

QUOTE (Cloudbuster @ Feb 28 2006, 02:15 PM)

You need: A blowtorch to melt the old bushing A long stick that fits inside the arm to push the shaft out, OR A pair of vice-grips that you clamp onto the shaft nut and pull Some gloves It isn't necessary to disconnect the half-shaft. But it definitely helps. You will need to disconnect the brake hose. I'd put it in the three hour range, per side. It depends which bushings you put in and how long you want them to last. I used Elephant bushings, so I didn't have to worry about bushing-to-shaft fitting, since Elephant comes with its own shaft. Do BOTH sides. My bushing experience

Mark,

Thanks, this is what I need to know. I also have the tire rub on the inner fender wall. If I can't find a replacement arm locally, I'll get new bushings and install.

Spoke

QUOTE (Headrage @ Feb 28 2006, 11:23 AM)

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Feb 28 2006, 11:20 AM) oval suspension mounting holes suck!  Andy Is there a repair if they are?

yupp, weld up and re-drill. make sure you get the hole in the right spot, otherwise your suspension geometry is off ...

Andy

It's entirely possible that the bushing is shot but the hole is NOT oval'd. The budget car had exactly that issue. The hole was not oval'd, so I bought a used control arm complete with shaft and CV joint and just bolted it in. Drove the hell out of it afterwards.

could be... I've just never seen them move that much. If you're luck that's the only issue. I don't have any ideas on the budget repair thing. I think the best/easiest way is to swap with a good arm.

You may want to check with Eddie Brown in Bakersfield. I believe he has some cores coming back to me. You could swap with one of those because I don't care about the condition of the bushing in the core...

Ooooooooooooops... you're in PA. That won't help much.

I have a spare shaft and bushing set you can borrow.

Disclaimer:
I was in a rush and the Delrin bushings may or may not fit your trailing arm, but it should do as a very short term fix.

Spoke if you need a hand or at least some one to give some motavation give me a PM and we can set up a time to pull this all apart!!!

Thanks all for the info and offers. Much appreciated. This site rocks!!!! Actually, you folks on this site rock!

I have located a replacement trailing arm locally with good bushings, bearing, and hub. I'll pick it up tonight and start (er, continue) the madness. $20 can't go wrong.

Spoke

Spoke you are the man for finding those parts quick!!!

I guess there used to be a bushing in there.

It's just a little hole.

It used to be a hole. I think I could identify my welding almost anywhere. I really need to learn how to weld correctly.

That "used to be a bushing" is one of the Weltmeister polygraphite pieces of sh!t. When the flange breaks off the inner portion of the bushing is free to move deeper inside the trailing arm and no longer provide support.
Those bushings require a lot of effort to even make them marginally acceptable imo. Part of the problem is that the hole in the trailing arm isn't round. That's why I offer the Delrin bushing installation service.

QUOTE (Cloudbuster @ Feb 28 2006, 09:15 PM)

You need: A blowtorch to melt the old bushing A long stick that fits inside the arm to push the shaft out, OR A pair of vice-grips that you clamp onto the shaft nut and pull Some gloves It isn't necessary to disconnect the half-shaft.  But it definitely helps.  You will need to disconnect the brake hose. I'd put it in the three hour range, per side.  It depends which bushings you put in and how long you want them to last.  I used Elephant bushings, so I didn't have to worry about bushing-to-shaft fitting, since Elephant comes with its own shaft. Do BOTH sides. My bushing experience

Probably three hours per side... unless you're like me and need to sandblast and powdercoat everything in sight.

Then, add all kinds of stupid-time to the project. Hey, since you have the arm off, check out the axle. Doesn't that need cleaning and powercoating, too. Oh, wow... calipers could get a freshening up. Hey, I wonder if I could pull the exhaust and steam clean the underside? There's some sheet metal under here with flaking paint... hmmm...

-Rusty

QUOTE

I guess there used to be a bushing in there.

That's not a 'bad' bushing... that's a 'gone' bushing!

Chris... looks like factory to me Just judging by the way the rubber is fractured in the pic. All the Welts. I've installed have been a press in fit meaning that inner portion should stay...

Slap that used control arm in it and be on your way. Grind down that weld forst so the mating surface is flat.

Update:

I picked up the used control arm last night. Primed and painted (black) the repaired area on the suspension ear. Repacked the wheel bearing, cleaned all of the lug bolt and caliper mount threads, installed unit; wheel is nice and solid now. Added a heat flapper for heat, got registered, insured, and I'm on the road now!!

There is a big difference in power between my single-center-carbed-1.7L and this FI 2.0L. It is quite refreshing. Gotta go, I got some to do.

Spoke

Damn your fast!!!! What did you take off of work to get the new car on the road????

Great Job Now go enjoy