I need to "trim" the center tunnel a little so my pedals can fit better. How much of a structural factor is it to the car? see pics.

Damn, that pic was a bit large.

pic of car.... Never to be finished

argh, forgot pic

Looks to me like it would be a lot easier if you just remove that extra bit of pedal.

now that you have a cage you should be fine...you can always cut and box-in the area....

nifty looking pedal setup, mind sharing the cost of it???

QUOTE (lapuwali @ Mar 29 2006, 05:01 PM)

Looks to me like it would be a lot easier if you just remove that extra bit of pedal.

Just do some trimming on the pedal...

From the pic it looks like it wont take too much.

Boxing the pedal area is what I am going to do. I am making it easily maintainable.

There will be a box, somewhat. The pedals will drop in on one piece and bolted to the floor. Then, an aluminum cover with Dzus fasteners will cover it up and prevent debris from entering the cockpit. It will be fully sealed with rubber (hehehe), to prevent water from entering as well.

Removing the extra stuff on the pedal won't happen. It's cast, and I need it for a foot support and to run the throttle cable.

Tilton pedals, from ebay with master cylinders, $225! CNC brand gas pedal, $35 from Pitstopusa.com.

I think the Tilton pedals are usually $250 w/o m/c's.

Metal plate - $2 from metal shop.

the tunnel is part of the structure, but since you have a cage, I'd think it wouldn't suffer much if you make some minor cuts in it

do you want to move it to the right more than you have in your pic?

hard to judge from the pics, but maybe it's easier to modify the throttle pedal?
lengthen it upward?

nice car btw... got some more info/pics?

You got yourself a cage, you'll be fine.

Im planning on having the same setup for my pedals...

How much did it all cost you?

Thanks

Andrew

QUOTE (Andyrew @ Mar 29 2006, 06:21 PM)

How much did it all cost you? Thanks Andrew

scroll up a post or 2

Terrance - have you moved your drivers seat over a bit to line up with the pedals better? Just wondering - I have a Tilton triple pedal setup in mine in just about the same area, and I moved my drivers seat over about 1-1/2" inboard and still felt I had to "reach over" a little with my left foot to push the clutch. With the tube car, I am going to move the pedals to the left a bit (where that other structural piece is) so I can line up with the clutch better.

I have a really heavy clutch in the car and lining straight up with the pedal would be a real advantage for me. Just wondering what you're thoughts/experience is with having the pedals mounted there.

QUOTE (neo914-6 @ Mar 29 2006, 06:30 PM)

What does this buy you, less pressure on the legs?

Have you seen how skinny that young punk is???? ...yea, I'm jealous

QUOTE (Terrance @ Mar 29 2006, 05:07 PM)

Boxing the pedal area is what I am going to do. I am making it easily maintainable. There will be a box, somewhat. The pedals will drop in on one piece and bolted to the floor. Then, an aluminum cover with Dzus fasteners will cover it up and prevent debris from entering the cockpit. It will be fully sealed with rubber (hehehe), to prevent water from entering as well. Removing the extra stuff on the pedal won't happen. It's cast, and I need it for a foot support and to run the throttle cable. Tilton pedals, from ebay with master cylinders, $225! CNC brand gas pedal, $35 from Pitstopusa.com. I think the Tilton pedals are usually $250 w/o m/c's. Metal plate - $2 from metal shop.

Terrance,

I thought you were a CSOB

What does this buy you, less pressure on the legs?

Here's another Tilton in 914

Nice BTW...

I cut the top of my tunnel out (to put stuff in there, weld clutch tube, kill rust, etc.) and without most of the tunnel the floor still seems plenty strong. (I'll be welding the top back on) I still wouldn't run a car without one, but taking a little chunk out should be fine.

byndbad914 - I will definately have to move the seat over more. Since it's a race car, I can do some drilling. Most porsches are offset for some reason. I was thinking of moving the pedals to the left, but it won't work for me, because the M/C's are so long, I have to cut into the firewall and mount it farther forward.


Neo - I saw those pics, thanks. I wonder how much of the firewall was cut to fit? I had to chop mine up to do make clearance for the M/C's.

Overall, I did this so I can have nice solid pedals to use, and good M/C's. the gas pedal is dope. Soooo smooth, and not wobbly. I have to cut the tunnel, and mount the pedal a little more crooked to make some clearance for heel-toe action, and also make sure I dont' step on 2 pedals at the same time.

I figured it out. Tilton makes shorter master cylinders, which will save me almost 2". Which means, I can move the pedals even farther forward, so I can tilt my seat more, and sit even lower in the car.

QUOTE (Terrance @ Mar 29 2006, 07:55 PM)

I figured it out. Tilton makes shorter master cylinders, which will save me almost 2". Which means, I can move the pedals even farther forward, so I can tilt my seat more, and sit even lower in the car.

Thats what I did too, Terrance. I think the M/Cs are Tilton 75 series, or something like that. I built a box in the floor so I could move them farther forward. I managed to get the seat a bit lower too. I also moved the seat over so that it sits right up against the tunnel. Pretty straight shot at the pedals that way....

Here are a few pics:

Pedal box from the inside...

Here's a somewhat lame shot of the pedal box from the outside, but it might give the idea...

This gives an idea of where the seat is situated....

Mike,

Need info on your gas pedal! Me likes.

I want those Tilton 75 series M/C's, but they are expensive at $86 a pop! I'm not extremely tall, at 5'10.5", so I can fit with this pedal setup as is. I will debate about the M/C's. I decided to mount the pedals on the plate to give more room for adjustibility if needed. Looks like i got some work to do this weekend.

Terrance,

For the seat/pedal relationship, you might try simply rotating the seat very slightly to the right Clockwise). Then to line up the pedals, rotate them slightly as well which may give you more room for the gas pedal. You'll never even notice that slight rotation of the seat once the green flag drops!

Andys

QUOTE (Terrance @ Mar 30 2006, 08:35 AM)

Mike, Need info on your gas pedal! Me likes. I want those Tilton 75 series M/C's, but they are expensive at $86 a pop! I'm not extremely tall, at 5'10.5", so I can fit with this pedal setup as is. I will debate about the M/C's. I decided to mount the pedals on the plate to give more room for adjustibility if needed. Looks like i got some work to do this weekend.

Thanks Terrance! I made the gas pedal from scratch. It runs in bronze bushings so its pretty smooth. The throttle cable will attach to a post on the right side of the pedal. It had to bend like that to clear the adjuster cable for the balance bar.

I'm 5'9" but wanted to shift things a bit farther forward for weight distribution purposes, so I did the box thing and went with the 75s. I figured I could sell the long MCs and recoup some of the cost... Of course I haven't actually DONE it yet....

Andys,

QUOTE

You'll never even notice that slight rotation of the seat once the green flag drops!

Thanks for the tip! But the only flag I'm probably going to see is the meatball after the 1st corner!

I am mounting a Sparco Seat in the car, so when I get my side mounts, I can rotate it and shift it around to get the right feel before I bolt it in permanently.


Mike,

Cool pedal. I can settle with mine. I just need to rotate it a little bit and move it farther away for comfort. I should fit with these long pedals, so I should be fine. I need a little bend in my legs to feel compfy.

Actually, i do have a question, what are you using to "spring back" the pedal? My CNC pedal has a mouse trap spring in the back to push it.

Terrance,

I am working on hopefully mounting my pedals in the tube car in about 2 weeks. I have both the short Tiltons and the short Wilwoods. I had the short Wilwoods originally, installed them but ended up not using them because I didn't have a pedal box area cut out yet, and the lines exit the front of the MCs (so the outlets hit the stock firewall). The Tiltons exited the top, so I bought them for a quick fix to make a track event. Wilwoods are new, Tiltons have 4 track days total, so basically new as well.

If you are interested in a set of short MCs, PM me and maybe we can work something out in a couple of weeks. I will make it worth your while for a brand new set of 3 MCs (.700 for front brakes/.650 for rear brakes/.750 for clutch slave). Since you are building a recessed pedal box like Mike, either type will work easily. Trust me, and extra 1-1/2"-2" at the pedals will make a huge difference.

dude. killer car!!!!

QUOTE (Terrance @ Mar 30 2006, 12:14 PM)

Actually, i do have a question, what are you using to "spring back" the pedal? My CNC pedal has a mouse trap spring in the back to push it.

Nothing in the pedal itself. All of the return will come from the throttle return springs - plural. I'm planning on at least three; two on the throttle body and one on the linkage (The stock set-up has two to begin with). After all, one of the best things about big horsepower is being able to shut it off!

QUOTE

Trust me, and extra 1-1/2"-2" at the pedals will make a huge difference.

Have to agree with byndbad here. I like a bit of bend in the knees too, but it will be easier to move the pedals toward you if they are too far away than to make more room later if you decide you are a bit too close. I feel that the race car needs to fit you a close to perfectly as you can manage. It's amazing how distracting small details can be when you're on the track...

Like I told my buddy, I buy my clothes off the rack, but I custom tailor my car!