OK I did it! My first welds! They are not perfect but I did it!! I rented a Mig with gas from the local rental yard $25 and 20 minutes later its done!
Jeff
Full Version: My First Welds!
That would explain the smoke I saw on the other side of the hills 
Next time let me know, my welder is small enough for me to throw in the back of my car if you want to borrow it.
Looks good for a rookie
Next time let me know, my welder is small enough for me to throw in the back of my car if you want to borrow it.
Looks good for a rookie
now you have to learn the most important thing to become a professional welder.
how to operate that grinder
grind those welds down and seal them. "Metal-Ready" works very well ...
Andy
how to operate that grinder
grind those welds down and seal them. "Metal-Ready" works very well ...
Andy
Cool. Welding is on my list of things I need to learn how to do.
Chris, I took a class offered by the local high school's vocational department.
I learned Stick, MIG & TIG as well as the use of plasma cutters, etc... It cost me
under $300 and was well worth it.
I learned Stick, MIG & TIG as well as the use of plasma cutters, etc... It cost me
under $300 and was well worth it.
I do need a grinder! My dremmel is a bit to smalllllll! The welder I rented was only about 12"x18" with a 5 pound gas bottle strapped to it! Very compact! I did a few test welds on an old rear hood that I couldn't give away last winter and jumped right in! Does anyone have a smilie with a welding mast on it? lol
I will call you next time Mueller!
Jeff
QUOTE
Next time let me know, my welder is small enough for me to throw in the back of my car if you want to borrow it.
I will call you next time Mueller!
Jeff
QUOTE(Jeffs9146 @ Sep 24 2003, 03:53 PM)
I do need a grinder! My dremmel is a bit to smalllllll! The welder I rented was only about 12"x18" with a 5 pound gas bottle strapped to it! Very compact! I did a few test welds on an old rear hood that I couldn't give away last winter and jumped right in! Does anyone have a smilie with a welding mast on it? lol
I will call you next time Mueller!
Jeff
QUOTE
Next time let me know, my welder is small enough for me to throw in the back of my car if you want to borrow it.
I will call you next time Mueller!
Jeff
Home despot will sell you a 4" Ryobi grinder for about $30. I've given mine some abuse and it seems to be up for it. I would recommend it.
WTF is this weld sealing stuff you are talking about Andy - do you have a link? is this stuff for making welds watertight and making them look a bit better?
Thx,
Fiid.
P.S. 111th Post. Wasn't there a Lotus Elise 111R or something??
QUOTE(fiid @ Sep 24 2003, 05:05 PM)
WTF is this weld sealing stuff you are talking about Andy - do you have a link? is this stuff for making welds watertight and making them look a bit better?
metal-ready is part of the POR-15 treatment but works well as a standalone too ...
creates a zinc phosphate coat over the bare metal.
http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=177
Andy
I just went out and purchased a Makita 4" grinder! It should go quick from here!
Jeff
Jeff
Hi Jeff,
Good for a first timer! It looks like you need to weld a little hotter so that the weld flattens out and blends in to the metal better. You want a round flat puddle to form each time you press the trigger. Press the trigger and release. It takes about 1 second, then move on to the other side away from the weld you just did. Keep zapping like this until you have filled in everywhere. Each small flat puddle should overlap the one next to it. Sometimes it helps to "wash" a little. This is simply moving the wire from one side across the gap or seam to the other in order to flatten it out. This also allows you to carry more heat without burning through. No grinder should be needed unless you are doing body work, and then gas-welding, or Tig is a better choice, and can be done with little or no grinding if done correctly.
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Good for a first timer! It looks like you need to weld a little hotter so that the weld flattens out and blends in to the metal better. You want a round flat puddle to form each time you press the trigger. Press the trigger and release. It takes about 1 second, then move on to the other side away from the weld you just did. Keep zapping like this until you have filled in everywhere. Each small flat puddle should overlap the one next to it. Sometimes it helps to "wash" a little. This is simply moving the wire from one side across the gap or seam to the other in order to flatten it out. This also allows you to carry more heat without burning through. No grinder should be needed unless you are doing body work, and then gas-welding, or Tig is a better choice, and can be done with little or no grinding if done correctly.
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Thanks John!
I think the sections that are raised are where I was unstable and pulled away from the weld surface and kept welding! I found that if I was closer I was able to achieve the "flow" and as I moved away it cooled faster. Just a guess though!
Jeff
I think the sections that are raised are where I was unstable and pulled away from the weld surface and kept welding! I found that if I was closer I was able to achieve the "flow" and as I moved away it cooled faster. Just a guess though!
Jeff
Takes a humble man to post pics of his welding 
I usually grind mine flat and paint before I'll even let my kids look at it
I usually grind mine flat and paint before I'll even let my kids look at it
QUOTE(seanery @ Sep 24 2003, 03:44 PM)
Chris, I took a class offered by the local high school's vocational department.
I learned Stick, MIG & TIG as well as the use of plasma cutters, etc... It cost me
under $300 and was well worth it.
I learned Stick, MIG & TIG as well as the use of plasma cutters, etc... It cost me
under $300 and was well worth it.
Another good option is your local community college. That's where I took my welding class!
I never said I was a welder so it doesn't matter what they look like as long as they work....right 
Jeff
Jeff
QUOTE
I never said I was a welder so it doesn't matter what they look like as long as they work....right
Heh... I wasn't commenting on yours, commenting on my frankenstein welds.
At least some of my problem is that my welder has a rusty liner, and the wire "pauses" and breaks the arc all of the time.
Now, what about the rear sway bar?? Welding, without flinching, while slag is dripping onto your chest takes real courage.
no slag with a mig!
really super clean with a tig!!!
really super clean with a tig!!!
QUOTE
No grinder should be needed unless you are doing body work, and then gas-welding, or Tig is a better choice, and can be done with little or no grinding if done correctly.
Hmm, for a beginner I have to disagree about gas welding body metal...and TIG is simply too expensive. I think MIG is fine for a variety home jobs and gas is nice and serves a purpose (brazing, cutting, forming and welding) but not to beginner sheet metal welding on a car.
As for working on modern cars a MIG welder is recommended over gas due to the modern metals being used.
Hi Toby,
I started out gas-welding on a Ghia in the late '70s or early '80s. I was a ship yard welder using stick and inner shield wire at that time. Also had a lot of experience welding with mig. I listened to what others said about mig-welding being the best way to go and switched to mig on cars. Later I wished I had not. Mig is great if you only plan to go so far, or are a home hobbiest, but to develop the skills further, gas-welding is well worth the extra effort to learn.
After many years of experimentation with methods of trying to keep shrinkage down while mig-welding, I finally switched back to gas-welding for most of my work. The metal stays soft and workable unlike a mig-welded panel which seems to be work-hardened, and requires grinding.
I can actually do my projects faster with gas than mig, and have no hesitation about cutting through a gas-weld with a pair of aviation snips, using a hammer and dolly extensively if necessary, or hammer-forming a part that has been gas-welded, all of which would be problematic with a mig weld. A mig weld is like a stiffener in the middle of a panel. A gas weld is much like the rest of the metal after a small amount of hammer and dolly work.
So, I agree, for beginners mig is great, but it can lead to arrested development, and more bondo than necessary. I've met a lot of great metal workers online, and in person, and only one of them uses mig for top quality autobody work with no filler. He grinds both sides, and uses a hammer and dolly to straighten, and reduce shrinkage. Everyone else that I know of in metalshaping uses either tig or gas-welding.
I think the reason gas-welding has gotten a bum rap is that the metal moves so much. The trick is that it will come back with a few bumps from a dolly, and some on-dolly stretching of the weld. Mig-welding appears to make the metal move less initially but it actually pulls, shrinks, and hardens the weld area to a greater degree. Sometimes the old ways are better!
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
I started out gas-welding on a Ghia in the late '70s or early '80s. I was a ship yard welder using stick and inner shield wire at that time. Also had a lot of experience welding with mig. I listened to what others said about mig-welding being the best way to go and switched to mig on cars. Later I wished I had not. Mig is great if you only plan to go so far, or are a home hobbiest, but to develop the skills further, gas-welding is well worth the extra effort to learn.
After many years of experimentation with methods of trying to keep shrinkage down while mig-welding, I finally switched back to gas-welding for most of my work. The metal stays soft and workable unlike a mig-welded panel which seems to be work-hardened, and requires grinding.
I can actually do my projects faster with gas than mig, and have no hesitation about cutting through a gas-weld with a pair of aviation snips, using a hammer and dolly extensively if necessary, or hammer-forming a part that has been gas-welded, all of which would be problematic with a mig weld. A mig weld is like a stiffener in the middle of a panel. A gas weld is much like the rest of the metal after a small amount of hammer and dolly work.
So, I agree, for beginners mig is great, but it can lead to arrested development, and more bondo than necessary. I've met a lot of great metal workers online, and in person, and only one of them uses mig for top quality autobody work with no filler. He grinds both sides, and uses a hammer and dolly to straighten, and reduce shrinkage. Everyone else that I know of in metalshaping uses either tig or gas-welding.
I think the reason gas-welding has gotten a bum rap is that the metal moves so much. The trick is that it will come back with a few bumps from a dolly, and some on-dolly stretching of the weld. Mig-welding appears to make the metal move less initially but it actually pulls, shrinks, and hardens the weld area to a greater degree. Sometimes the old ways are better!
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Cool John So, for gas welding 914 sheet, what do you use? Brand name and tip sizes, por favor 
So, for gas welding 914 sheet, what do you use? Brand name and tip sizes, por favor
Hi Toby,
Mostly I use a Victor Jr. with a 000 tip, and sometimes I use a Henrob/Dillon with the smallest tip. I think almost any brand name small torch should be workable.
Keeping a clean tip, and as low a line pressures as possible without lots of popping seems to be the ticket for me. I don't pay much attention to the regulators, just the flame itself.
If you haven't seen it, here is a link to an article that has some of this in it:
http://www.type2.com/library/body/wlsh.htm
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Mostly I use a Victor Jr. with a 000 tip, and sometimes I use a Henrob/Dillon with the smallest tip. I think almost any brand name small torch should be workable.
Keeping a clean tip, and as low a line pressures as possible without lots of popping seems to be the ticket for me. I don't pay much attention to the regulators, just the flame itself.
If you haven't seen it, here is a link to an article that has some of this in it:
http://www.type2.com/library/body/wlsh.htm
John www.ghiaspecialties.com
Hi,
I had a guy who came to my house and did some gas welding for me. The car was up on stands and I wasn't interested in schlepping it around to get welding done. This guy is an absolute artist with a torch! He took care of all the rust issues on my 73 including the ear part of the right suspension consol. Everything was butt welded with no overlaping. He would tack on a piece of metal and heat it a little and then shape it with a dolly and hammer. He is in the San Fernando Valley in Ca. and will travel from Santa Barbara to San Diego. If you're in S. Cal. and need some good work done, I'll be happy to give you his number. He owned a body shop for 20 years. He'll install flares and do body work as well.
Cheers, Elliot
I had a guy who came to my house and did some gas welding for me. The car was up on stands and I wasn't interested in schlepping it around to get welding done. This guy is an absolute artist with a torch! He took care of all the rust issues on my 73 including the ear part of the right suspension consol. Everything was butt welded with no overlaping. He would tack on a piece of metal and heat it a little and then shape it with a dolly and hammer. He is in the San Fernando Valley in Ca. and will travel from Santa Barbara to San Diego. If you're in S. Cal. and need some good work done, I'll be happy to give you his number. He owned a body shop for 20 years. He'll install flares and do body work as well.
Cheers, Elliot
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