Hey guys & gals, sorry for the length, would like to be thorough.

Past Status: '74 2.0 was running great 2 years ago. Took it to a gas station to fill up a gas can (no gas was put into the car's tank) and as I was leaving the car died. I tried to start it a couple of times and was able to get it to run but as soon as I would try to give it some gas (not in gear) the car would die. The only thing I noticed differently was that the fuel pump didn't sound right.

Back then I tested the fuel pump for flow and pressure (without car running) and both seemed good. The car would start periodically and idle fine but I could not touch the accelerator without it dying. The pump still didn't sound right however.

Current status: Pulled the '74 pump and rigged up a '75 pump that tested good for flow. '74 pump seems a bit weak on flow. Car will not start at all. I am not even getting any firing.

Plugs are working fine with nice fat sparks. Also, the 2 driver's side injectors are firing a good spray of fuel. (I did not check the passenger side - assuming they are fine)

Next on my list of things to check:

• Make sure timing hasn't somehow jumped position
• double check Crane HI-6 ignition system
• temperature sensor

I am interested in any other thoughts or past experiences from the group. What else should I be checking? Have you had a similar problem and what was the solution?

Thanks in advance.

Have you checked all of your electrical connections?

I seem to remember a time I had a similar sounding problem and there was a wire (don't remember for what) that is down near the base of the distributor (wide plug, red wire?) that was not firmly attached. Had me scratching my head for a good week... Once I reinserted it, everythign was fine.

I'd check that everything is plugged in, even if it looks like it is, it may not be making the proper contact.

Changed your fuel filter lately? It could be plugged up.

yeah, I would be on that fuel filter thing, too. I've run one to the point of blockage and got pretty much the exact symptoms described. Is the gas level pretty low also (concentrates the crap)?

I did check the fuel filter when I hooked up the '75 pump. Didn't have any gunk coming out of the inlet side. Then again, they are cheap enough so perhaps I will just replace it.

I could watch the fuel flow through the clear plastic lines with the '75 pump hooked up. Looked good. Plus, the injectors were squirting good. I seem to recall that the tank is about 3/4 full.

I'll take a look at the electrical side of it again. I had my brother wiggling wires previously and I did get one sign that the engine was trying to fire but we were not able to reproduce it. I even replaced the rusty screw in the fuse block with a nice clean one but we saw no change. I know, I will put a fuse in there someday.

Thanks for the suggestions. Please keep them coming. I will be working on the car this weekend and I would like to explore as many options as possible.

Ok guys, here is what I found out......

1: I tried to start the car right off the bat and it did fire and try to run. I had it running on it's own but as soon as I applied the gas she died. I did not get it started again after that.

2: Dbl checked timing and it was on.

3: Checked fuel pressure w/ the new pump and it was about 33 PSI so I adjusted it back down to between 28 and 29 PSI.

4: Checked the MPS. I got good values on the two coils 91.9 and 349.8 ohms with no indication that they are touching each other or the MPS housing. I sucked on the hose and it held vacuum.

5: Checked the Intake Air Temperature Sensor and it was in spec.

OK, here are the areas I checked that didn't "check" out.......

6: Checked the Thermo switch that operates the cold start valve and got an open circuit from the lead to any ground point.

7: Checked the Cylinder Head Temperature Sensor and received a value of 5.1 ohms from the lead to any ground point. This value is about double what I have seen it should be.

8: Noticed that I had standing fuel in the intake manifold. Checked the cold start valve and it was not firing or leaking. I decided to disconnect it anyway since I don't run the car in the cold. (both fuel and electrical)

My thoughts at this time......

I think I am experiencing a rich running condition and the car is flooding out. This is supported by the Cylinder Head Temerature Sensor value and the fuel in the intake.

I would like to hear what you guys think. Also, is there any other way for gas to get into the intake besides the cold start injector?

Thanks for your input.

seems like checking the CHT should be next on the list. I believe one of the textbook symptoms is that a bad CHT can make the car run so rich it won't stay running.

maybe the wire is shorting or something like that too....