Update for today.

I lapped the cylinders into the heads, cleaned, inspected... Repeated twice until they were ready. Set the deck height to 0.03" and calculated CR is 9.5:1ish. I installed the front and rear main seals, flywheel, crank pulley and the heads. That was about all I could get done in 4 hours (add in cleaning time for tin pieces).

The boss is taking a siesta until friday, so I'm pricing an MSD 6AL box and parts (something I can do while the shop is closed down) to further enhance my driving fun with this combo

get a real dizzy.

run a mallory and hyfire 6a box.

Yep, the MSD is an underdeveloped component for the TIV engine.. It comes so far out of whack with its advance and curve that its pitiful.

But it'll work great in a Chevy.


Mallory.

I read the whole thread again and what cam did you get??

What FI are you using? Even thou Joe says using Djet is like pissing thru a straw, I would use as its better than duals.

Oh... CRAP I've been putting this thing together like it is half a chevy... Just kidding. Point taken Aaron/Jake. There's a few on the eVilbay new less than what I was bidding on an MSD unit for. Maybe I'll buy that.

Bleysing, I'm using L-Jet and running a Raby 9550 cam.

Mallory Hyfire 6A or 6AL?

Just purchased a Mallory Hyfire 6A, it should be shipping soon. Yay. Also on the way is a set of HEI plug wires. I'm going to follow the reccommendation of using a stock coil until performance issues arise. Then i can look for a mo-betta one. I think I'll install the mallory unit next Friday, that way I can have it all ready to use with the new engine (if it's installed by then).

now get a real coil for it.

i run the same box, easy to wire - get REAL plug wires and a REAL coil. (you need an uber low impedance coil) look at a mallory promaster e coil

Yeah, When I was in the market a few years ago, MSD boxes were still hand built, don't know about now. Hand built is great for burgers, houses and furniture but I like my electronics to have tight tolerances not character......



Kyle

PS. This was a british car project and I went with a crane HI-6, crane coil and converted a dizzy with the crane optical conversion. Infact I have done it a couple times now and it has never failed.

Update:

Okay, the front fan housing and tin is on the engine. I just need to put my new valve adjuster screws in, set the valves, install pilot bearing (with felt), fix the sheetmetal around the alternator, install the alternator, then get ready to transfer all the FI stuff over once the engine is pulled. I hope it happens this week but we'll see.

I also recieved my Mallory Hyfire 6A today, HEI wires came in Monday. I'm contemplating installing it after putting the new engine in, that way it will be easier to set the timing (seeing 4 flashes per cyl at idle, not fun when setting timing). The closer installation gets, the more excited I am. I can't wait to break(in) this motor and drive the piss outta it.

what pushrods did you choose? i have the adjustable pushrod tool to do valvetrain geometry...

and a REAL timing light doesnt care about MSD style pulses....

Aaron, all I have available are stock pushrods. I'll be doing the geometry tomorrow or friday with my boss. I figure off of this engine I might need 0.02" or 0.05" of spacer for the rockers because I'm running without head gaskets and without base shims.

When I decide to go with 911 swivel feet I may have to re-do it though... Who knows

So , stainless valves are a big no-no?????

i dropped the ball somewhere....

... I don't get it?

tween me and da fugly one...

dude - why not buy cut to length pushrods and do it right? im not sure you can get there with just shims and stock length pushrods

the shim issue is covered in jake's write up. you going to do the geometry now or during the next engine drop?

k

Doing the geometry tomorrow. Only did lots of running around town today... GF's focus took a shit and I have to replace the fuel pump on that. The project gets shelved for a couple of days.