This is my first 914. Always loved them never got off the porch and bought one. A not running one but at a great price. I figured it couldn't be anything I couldn't fix. I've owned a few Bugs so I am not a "Compleat Idiot" ( as John Muir put it) Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

1975, 1.8. stock L-jetronic.

Won't fire. Engine turns, starter tries, every day or so I get one or two pistons to fire. Never start.

I have gas in the oil. Changed oil. Tried to start, wouldn't fire. now I have gas in the oil again. Suspect injector stuck open. Figured I'd try a second opinion.

For a more detailed history of my week.

1. New Plugs, wires, points, coil sparks against fan shroud while (attempting) starting, so I figured it was good. Cannot find timing mark, rotor and cap look O.K. Wires in proper firing order.

2 Fuel pump new, intake air sensor new ( volt meter confirmed within haynes manual spec), Avoiding spending 50 bucks onpressure guage to check fuel pressure. But pump runs and apparently runs quickly into the oil. There is suction through intake and gate does open.

3. My "75 1.8 relay tray has places for 4 round relays, one for the "power supply relay( for fuel injection)", another for "fuel delivery pump relay( for fuel injection)" and two fan relays I don't care about right now. Upon inspection there was a 911 relay in the power supply receptacle only. I have the right relays on order and am hoping they might help. However the fuel pump IS RUNNING.

My newest assuption is there are actually two problems. Since insufficient lubrication is more damaging than not starting I am giving that problem the priority.

I feel the gas/oil problem is the cold start valve is stuck open. I am about to remove the cold start valve put it in a bucket, try to start and if it shoots fuel like a fountain I will replace it.

I am overrunning my budget for a hobby car. Please, any help is appreciated.


Steve

[quote name='srthompson01' date='Sep 24 2006, 08:32 AM' post='779432']
Avoiding spending 50 bucks onpressure guage to check fuel pressure.

Get a gauge and check the fuel pressure.

I had my regulator reversed once and I was getting 160 lbs.+ to the fuel rails and it was forcing fuel past the injectors and cold start valve and pushing raw gas into everything.

Do a compression test and a leakdown test. Post the numbers.

When doing the leakdown test, take off the oil-filler cap.

Injectors in a bucket is a good test. Try the regular injectors as well as the CSV.

Make sure the head temp sensor (over by the #3 spark plug; a single wire coming out of the engine tin plugged into a rectangular connector) is indeed plugged in.

The "FI relays" on the relay board aren't used by the 1.8's L-jet; the functions are taken over by the "dual relay" hanging off the battery tray.

--DD

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/DoubleRelay.html

http://manuals.type4.org/ljet

http://www.texas912.org/912E%20Tech%20Data...al%20Manual.pdf

http://www.opelclub.com/html/fuel_injection.html



Dave is correct, one does not even really need the relay board for the L-Jet.

You should be a able to get a fuel pressure testing gauge at the local autoparts place for about $25 to $30..it's worth it I think....."guessing" is just not smart economics

I put a crowbar in my wallet and bought a guage.

35psi. And the engine compartment reeked of gas, so do I now.

Back to the injectors.

Thanks everyone.

it's a long shot, but the injectors are supplied voltage full time when the dual relay is active, the ECU "grounds" the injector to fire it..perhaps you have some strange ground problem keeping and injector open??

also, the L-Jet cannot have any vac. leaks....make sure the oil cap has a good o-ring and the tubes/hoses going from the oil filler to the big rubber boot on the throttle body are connected and free of leaks

Pull #1 injector and check it -- might be sticking open. #1 is the last on the supply side of the fuel rail, and are more prone to failure than the others. Also, how long has that gasoline been in your car?

[quote name='Brando' date='Sep 24 2006, 02:27 PM' post='779539']
Pull #1 injector and check it -- might be sticking open. #1 is the last on the supply side of the fuel rail, and are more prone to failure than the others. Also, how long has that gasoline been in your car?


Less than a week

ahh get carbs


OKAY I SAID IT. Just to equalize the great price thing.

Another possibilty.

Cold start valve stuck open.

Fills the plenum with gas.
Goes past rings.

Pinch off fuel hose or plug hose going to cold start valve.

Take air cleaner off and look in the intake plenum (open butterfly)

See if you can see any fuel puddling. if so. It's a stuck cold start valve.

Just a thought....

Oil is now mixed with gas.

Twystd1

Clayton, this is the problem we troubleshoot(ed) on cbenitah's car, wasn't it? Well, that and an accelerator cable wrapped with the clutch cable...

YUP...

And the exact same symptoms as that this fellow is having.

The other problem I have seen. That someone posted before me was the fuel pressure being whacky.

That will POUR fuel past the injectors and the cold start valve as well.

Like on Headrage and Joe sharps car. You and I figured that one too...!!!!!!!!!!

Hell Brando, We have to be right at least some of the time... (OK, rare occasion)

Twystd1

Failing FPR may cause issues all the time. Only way to make sure there is to see constant pressure (about 3 bar) at idle, going up near 3.5-4 bar at 2k-4k rpms. If it jumps all over the place on revving up and revving down -- it's problematic.

What he said....

Twystd1

GREAT NEWS!!!!!

Diconnected the cold start valve. Turned the key and it STARTED!!!!!!!!!!!

I immediately killed it due to the gassy oil, I didn't want to ruin the engine.

The csr did not shoot out any fuel, however I can assume that by detaching it fron the manifold I disconnected its ground.

I have ordered a new CSR and am looking forward to my first drive. After I change the oil and filter again. Tank you all for your help.


Stephen

Good to hear it started. I would still check each injector into a bottle. I had the same fuel in oil issue (but my car did run) and one of my injectors was GUSHING fuel. It never stopped.

Dan

CIS Upgrade to D-Jet?

Make sure you have gas in your tank! I'm not assuming you're an idiot, believe me. I'm just speaking from personal experience. I don't know how many times I changed something, it started and I thought I had solved the problem, only to later find out that it was running out of gas and the lower fuel pressure was allowing the engine to run for a short time without flooding out. I'm not fimiliar with the L-Jet system, but if you pulled the plug on the cold start valve and it ran, I would really suspect what controls the valve, rather than the valve itself. Just a thought. Again, I'm no expert.
My main problem(there were several) turned out to be a improperly hooked up CHT. I don't know about the L-Jet, but on the D-Jet there are two of those rectangular connectors right next to eachother, and they were mixed up on my car. Make sure the CHT sensor is hooked into the same loom that runs to the ECU and injectors.
Just giving you some things to check while you wait for your part. However, I hope the cold start valve IS the problem. I wouldn't wish the hell I've been through the past six months on my worst enemy! ...... Okay I would!
Mark D.

Mueller, I'm in the middle of putting a L-Jet where once stood a D-jet besides the altenator and starter requireing the relay board what must go thru the board?? Have you ever done or seen this conversion????

the tach signal still goes thru the relay board....i've had the L-jet on a 1911 (1.8 with bigger cylinders) and on a eurospec 2.0 (higher compression)

Sorry, I don't get it. What CIS

Constant Injection System; the injectors are always pouring fuel into the port.

funny - sorry you had to explain it.