Opps, I meant car-part.com . Different outfit, I guess. One trick I did was enter a search for a bogus year SVX, like, say 2000. Then it will ask if you want to do a "non-interchange" seach, and you can give a range of years, e.g. 1990-1997. Otherwise I think you'll have to seach for all engines for an L, then an LS, etc. And if you sort by price, keep in mind that some listings don't include a price, and they come (I think) towards the end. I sorted my results by distance, 'cause I wanted to see the engine in person before buying.



Okay, that's bigger than I had pictured.



Wow, that's pretty much two conversions. Engine mounts are different, engine size/weight different, ECU, heat load, etc. different. There was a thread on "what parts does EG33 share with other engines ?" and people were coming up with things like : VR sensor, Oil drain bolt, ...

Okay, so some time has passed and I have a little progress to report.

I got the engine/tranny pulled out of my 914, so there's no denying that it's officially a project car.

I got a brand new (unused, but sat for years) alternator. I'm gonna have to fab some kind of mount for it, but that won't happen until I have a better picture of where the engine sits in the engine bay.

Got a complete gasket set - I'll start on replacing those any day now...

The main focus, however, has been the oil pan. Just like the EJ25, the stock oil pan hands down pretty loooow.

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From the gasket to the bottom of the pan is 6.5".

Kinda hard to see in this pic, but the pan has a splash tray spot welded in. this is in addition to the windage tray that is attached to the block, and fits close below the crankshaft.

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I drilled out the spot welds and blasted the parts clean. Here you can see the dipstick tube and (at the left) the oil return tube.

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Plasma cutters are a lot of fun. I held the torch down on a 2x4 and slid it around the perimiter. The table had some (red) spray paint residue that made a wild gold color.

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For the walls of the new pan, I cut 2 strips 4" wide and hammered them into the right shape. I made a dolly out of a piece of 1" dia steel welded onto a piece of 1/4" scrap. With this dolly clamped in a heavy vise, it was suprisingly easy to form (and remove, then re-form) the bends as needed. Working sheet metal is pretty fun, and pretty forgiving. I read books by Timothy Remus and Ron Covell to learn how. Anyway, I decided to braze, rather than weld, this project, b/c I've only done a tiny bit of welding, and was afraid of ruining the sheet metal. Brazing doesn't involve melting the steel, and it's a lot more like soldering which I've done plenty of. Here's the rim from the stock pan, with the two side pieces brazed on. The "U" is where I cut out the dipstick tube. Also, in the background, is the piece I cut out to form the pan bottom.

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And finally, here's the pan. For the bottom, I just formed a 1/4" lip around the edges using a hammer and various pieces of scrap metal to bang on. I bent down a little flap at 4 corners, and then just filled in the perimiter with lots of test fitting. This was a simple seam to braze because it fit so tightly. After 4 or so tacks to hold the bottom in place, I went around with the hammer and made good solid contact all the way round. The molten bronze would race forward into the heated area even before I touched the rod to it. And I was able to braze a nice seam on the inside and the outside for extra safety. Also in this pic you can see the threaded bung that I cut out of the stock oil pan and tacked onto the new bottom. When I'm done with the pan, I'll drill out the hole and open it up a little on the mill. I still need to add the dipstick tube and the oil return pipe. Also, I'm going to work on that spalsh tray I cut out of the stock pan, and add a few baffles that will hang down into the pan. I'll braze a few tabs to the pan for this to screw onto. The distance from the gasket to the pan bottom is now 4.5", so all this work yields 2" of extra clearance.

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Poor lighting and low resolution make the pan look pretty nice. I'm actually pretty happy with it, especially since it's my first metalworking project, but it definitely has a "Kustom" look to it if you examine it closely. In retrospect, I think it would be better to fabricate the gasket flange from sheet metal, and not use the stock pan at all. That way, you could start by forming the side walls, and then form a short (1/4" or so) bend around the top similar to what was done for the bottom. Much, much easier to get a good tight joint, as I mentioned.

that looks REALLY awesome!!!!! Very nicely done. Can't wait to see the final result.

In case you haven't done it, now might be a good time to test for leaks. I used soapy water for mine, seemed to work reasonbly well.

I haven't done a careful test yet, but I let it sit full of water for like 10 min and there are no gushers. A week or two ago I made a little practice box, and it actually leaked blasting media. Oops ! (I forgot a seam.)