Our story thus far-
Carbs are off.
Plugs are out.
Valve covers are off.
Compression results:
#1: 110 psi
#2: 130 psi
#3 121 psi
#4 125 psi
This was AFTER I did a really thorough valve job going around and around to each valve until I was sure they were all 1/2 to 2/3 turn past contact.
hmmmm.
I studied the orientation of the screw slots on #2. Exhaust about 3:00 oclock, Intake at about 1:30.
I reset # 3 screws to more closely duplicate this - required maybe 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Retested compression. Now it was 128 psi.
Long story short: I've readjusted the valves again to achieve the highest compression. Didn't increase or decrease any setting more than 1/2 turn one way or the other.
#1: still messing with it
#2: 130 psi
#3 128 psi
#4 130 psi

This seems like a really optimum setting.

-OR-

Iz this REALLY STUPID?

uh, could be.

Opinions?
Experiences?
Mild interest?

Speak to me.

(this post edited to correct porely remembered results- #1 especially)

Scott,
Did you do the test with the throttle wide open?? It appears that you did with the rags shoved in the intakes...

The throttle position plays a key role with a compresion test..

Now...
Nothing tells the tale like a leak down test. Grab a leak down tester and do the tests with the poiston @ TDC and the engine warm..

Do some searches here for the entire procedure as I explained it to dnhunt a couple of times last year...

Leakdown tests are 50% more favorable than a compression test because they not only show an issue, but they also show exactly how bad it is and what the source is (valves, rings, head leaks and etc)

Jake-
thank for the ree-ply. The rags were out when I tested- just in for the pic. Will a "pressurize the cylinder and listen" LD test be sufficient? I don't even have a compressor, but can borry one and put the comp tester fitting on there. I'll do a search and try to learn a little more about the whole deal.