getting ready for my first winter project. want to put in turbo tie rods (seen it done) front struts (looks simple on paper). my question is i need to know if my ball joints need to be replaced. what symptons or clues should i look for?

There should be no slack (wear) in the ball and socket like the one on the

turbo tierod.

Check the boots on your balljoints, if ripped or torn - replace. Also check for play in the joint. I would bet they are probably original on your car.

This reminds me I need to buy one of them fancy tools for removing the ball joint from control arm.

I tried making the tool, no worky - I tried a 3lb sledge and a drift, no worky. Took the A-arm to a local shop with the new balljoints and they replaced both for 1 hour shop charge - money well spent.

When I did my front end I did everything, cleaned and regreased rack, put a hose clamp on the rag joint for the rack, new tie rods, ball joints and rotors/bearings. Good piece of mind and totally changed the way the car felt & drove.

did you remove the entire suspension from the car in one piece? is this a better idea given i may replace 1/2 the parts and can it be done by someone with limited 914 experience. stop laughing leo.

I did remove the suspension as an assembly (I was also replacing torsion bars and bushings). In your case you can do it either way.

He can pull the front end off if he pulls hard enough. It will detatch at the longs

"You'll put your eye out kid!"


You DO NOT need that shitty special tool that I bought and wasted $50 on from Pelican! Get a good Harbor Freight pipe wrench and remove the castellated nut that way. Replace the nuts too and when you do put some anti seize on the ball joint threads. If you do this you will not have to get extreme should you have to remove them in the future. You can do the tie rids just fine, but removing the tie rods from the spindle arms may prove to be a huge PITA as they like to stick. You will need a "pickle fork", $8 at your local FLAPS unless you live in Brooklyn

Make sure to keep your alignment, and the big metal donuts go between the tierod and the steering wrack (they are not bump steer pieces).

[quote name='Dr Evil' date='Nov 21 2006, 03:16 PM' post='820858']
"You'll put your eye out kid!"


maybe i can borrow yours when i bring you the 912 tranny and my tranny after the holidays. might as well have you do mine. help support starving and soon to be rich doctors.

[quote name='nycchef' date='Nov 21 2006, 07:03 PM' post='820894']
[quote name='Dr Evil' date='Nov 21 2006, 03:16 PM' post='820858']
"You'll put your eye out kid!"


maybe i can borrow yours when i bring you the 912 tranny and my tranny after the holidays. might as well have you do mine. help support starving and soon to be rich doctors.
[/quote]

You know I got yer back

Beware of the new tierods kits- there seems to be something wrong in the rubber formula for the boots and they start cracking after 3 months. Not sure which ones are the bad ones (or good ones) but lots of people have had that problem lately.

The bad ones are the no name cheap ones. I bought such a kit for $94 and it went to shit in 3 mo with out even driving it much. I ended up buying new rod ends and boots = net savings of $0.

Lemferodo (sp) all the way

Lemferodo (sp) all the way
[/quote]

mike where did you get em? have a good turkey day

GPRparts and Pelican Parts will have them.

Gobble Gobble!

Here's my tie rod replacement........I should have done the ball joints while I was in there...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?show...c=56323&hl=

Travis when you say you "re-greased" the rack what to you mean. And what is the clamp supposed to fix?