Here you go Dave..

9146 004

I plan to bring it to NorCal when I find a new shop.


B

Info removed for security reasons. I'd be happy to provide it again to Dave directly if necessary.

That looks like #356 not #256? Am I missing something?

Jeff

No, you didn't miss something, I did. It's been corrected.

Here is another one I found buried behind a house...

B

Brad, can you get the chassis number from 2617 or any other sixes that pass through please.
Doug, the paint code should be on the Karmann plate and it should be "80".
The 914 SIG list is by 6 cylinders, so they include conversions there as well, hence the 74's.
I'll try to email a few more people, I just hate to bug anyone on this.

Okay, the results so far seem to suggest that the chassis number for 1970 began with 13 followed by are sequence number that roughly follows the VIN. Both the chassis number and the VIN have a 4 digit sequence number, so it seems reasonable. What the 13 stands for I cannot guess. I have only one very old data point for 71, and I wrote down 31 as the starting digits. Unlike the /4 chassis that had daily sequence numbers it appears the /6 used an annual sequence number. There sure is a lot of bouncing around though; i.e. they do not track closely.

Thanks to everyone that has supplied data. Please keep it coming so that we can learn more. I'd like to write this up for the INFO section so that everyone can benefit.

DaveP

Hi Dave -

i haven't forgotten you!

i have to go to the storage unit this weekend to cannibalise the alternator pulley for the 911. i'll pull enough stuff off and out of the trunk so i can have a look for the chassis number.

Okay Rich, I'll forgive your tardiness if you share your secret of tequila and lime juice marinade. I just happen to have some Mexican tequila waiting to be put into action. That bottle has a story of its own to tell.

DaveP

at least overnight but as much as 24 hrs before, mix the juice of a dozen limes and one bottle (750 ml to 1 liter) of 'generic' tequila. i prefer Sauza... (a little for the cook, a little for the bird, a little for the cook, a little for the bird ...) if you've got a bunch of cilantro, chop that fine and toss it in too. put the bird and the liquid into a just-big-enough stockpot, add just enough water to cover.

cook per normal.

the citrus does a little bit of that 'ceviche' thing, tenderizing the meat; many flavors are alcohol-soluble and this really lets them penetrate. wonderful texture and flavor, keeps things nice and moist.

BTW - 'Mexican Tequila" is redundant - by law, "Tequila" is grown only in the Mexican government-designated region and is 100% blue agave. anything grown outside the region, or containing other products, or prepared in variance to any of the other strict production requirements (aging, storage, etc...) can be called "Mezcal" (the generic) but the word "Tequila" is very tightly regulated.

(spent 30 years in SoCal learning about Tequila..)

so far my favorite 'drinking' Tequila is Cabo Wabo, but we have an unopened bottle of Cazadores that has got good reviews. J says she likes Patron Silver a bit better than Cabo Wabo, to each one's own ... my standard "everyday" (nonpremium) Tequila is Sauza Hornitos.

Cuervo gets the ad budget this side of the border, but Sauza is the best-selling brand in Mexico. (just as Bacaardi gets the ink here, but Ron Rico is the best selling rum in Puerto Rico.)

Dave,

No visable code on the Karmann plate. Like I said, the Certificate of Authenticity signed by the President of Porsche North America, says that my car (with my vin) was originally painted silver metallic, code 8010, by the Porsche factory.

Douglas

Two markings on the dash frame of my 1975 four.

One is the chassis code

The other is just 43... Not sure what that means

davep,

Some of us with 914-6s apparently have no chassis numbers. The chassis plate is blank and the trunk floor is not stamped. I think you asked for '71 and '72 cars in particular. Here is my certificate of authenticity for my '71:

So here's my trunk floor. I don't think that coat of paint is so thick that it obliterated the numbers.

Doug, I'll believe you, it is strange but not surprising.
Marc, try looking to the right in front of the taillight where the /4 chassis number is stamped.
Rusty could not find a number in his trunk either, again strange but not surprising.
Karl, what is your VIN? That is a good photo. Mine were so faint as to be nearly invisible. I don't recall seeing another number on the dashes. Where is it located? No idea what it may signify.

DaveP

Isn't 43 the plant code?

If it is, it won't be found on a /6?



M

I'm not too sure about plant codes. If anyone has any info on this, I'd love to hear about it.

DaveP

okay - went to storage today to extract the alternator pulley (only half of which i could get, and it was quite the b!tch).

VIN - 9140432567
Chassis - 132 330
Karmann # - blank
paint code - 29 - 'Canary Yellow'

I don't know?

Olav, don't know what?

Just got a note from a 71 owner. In his car the chassis number is stamped in front of the right taillight as are the 914/4. They went to 7 digits to accomodate the new model year. thus the 13 became 131 followed by the sequence number. More info to follow. Any more owners want to contribute? Thanks.

DaveP

Okay, found the chassis numbers by the right taillight and under the dash. Here's a partial of the underside of the dash (trying to take pictures in the dark meant I didn't quite frame it right):

and here's the number stamped in the floor of my 1971 914/6. Did all 914s switch the trunk-stamped numbers from the center to the taillight area in 1971? I have a 1970 914/4 with the number stamped in the center rear.

By the way, this number is 1310204.

Thanks Marc. It is interesting to note that the chassis # and the VIN are very close, and the dash is in sync with the chassis. Do you have the DOT decal showing the month/year of production?

You may be correct on the location change of chassis # from 1970 to 1971. Come to think of it, I've never seen chassis # in a 1970 914/4 only 1970 914/6. Could you provide the photo for the 70 914/4 chassis number please.

DaveP

Yep, got the decal. Guess the car just celebrated its 33rd birthday.

Actually, I don't know if "celebrate" is the correct word considering the condition it's currently in.

So, it was built in 2/71.

Here's where the chassis number sits in my 1970 914/4:

I don't know if Dave's still interested in this, but I'm going to bump it because of all our new members. Maybe more sixers can add their info.

Olav might be able to add his VIN and paint code, but I know his chassis number is 131981. VERY close to Jim Chambers car. Olav's chassis had some ODD sheet metal in the front trunk. Definitely different than the other cars I've seen six, or four.

QUOTE (ArtechnikA @ Nov 28 2003, 05:54 PM)

okay - went to storage today to extract the alternator pulley (only half of which i could get, and it was quite the b!tch). VIN - 9140432567 Chassis - 132 330 Karmann # - blank paint code - 29 - 'Canary Yellow'

hey man!

QUOTE (McMark @ Oct 30 2005, 11:04 PM)

I don't know if Dave's still interested in this, but I'm going to bump it because of all our new members. Maybe more sixers can add their info. Olav might be able to add his VIN and paint code, but I know his chassis number is 131981. VERY close to Jim Chambers car. Olav's chassis had some ODD sheet metal in the front trunk. Definitely different than the other cars I've seen six, or four.

What odd sheetmetal??? I don't recall it course I saw it two years ago.

Oh yeah, keep adding to this. Always working on it really. Ask questions also.
Especially, anything odd is good to post.

Dave

QUOTE (Bleyseng @ Oct 31 2005, 07:03 AM)

QUOTE (McMark @ Oct 30 2005, 11:04 PM) I don't know if Dave's still interested in this, but I'm going to bump it because of all our new members.  Maybe more sixers can add their info. Olav might be able to add his VIN and paint code, but I know his chassis number is 131981.  VERY close to Jim Chambers car.  Olav's chassis had some ODD sheet metal in the front trunk.  Definitely different than the other cars I've seen six, or four. What odd sheetmetal??? I don't recall it course I saw it two years ago.

Most cars have the sheet metal holes punched out and filled in with plastic inserts. Mine hasn't been punched out.

Also, my horns are attached by a bolt not to a bolt sticking out from the body, Mark said that was different.

Another thing is in the front by the spare I have a bit of a large bump on either side of the spare beside the headligh cowling. Other cars didn't seem to have that. I saw a six on eBay with the same bumps that someone has bought that is a member here.

My VIN is 9140431947 paint code: SIGNAL ORANGE (14)
Chasis: 131981

Here's the numbers for the six in my shop.

Chassis: 130914
VIN: 9140431232
Color: ????? It's been acid dipped and the number's missing. I'm looking at the old pics trying to see if I can decipher it.

Here's a picture showing the differences in olav's car. The purple arrows are the holes which are not cut out, and the orange box is the bumps. Olav's bumps extend towards the center of the car about 1" to 1.5" more than those. He also doens't have the welded in nut that you bolt the horn to. I've contacted Jim Chambers, because if you look at his post in this thread, he's got chassis number 131984. The car produced 3 cars after Olav's.

If you are doing this again:
VIN: 9140432432
Chas: 1 3250 4
Karmann:
Paint: 80

pict

Great, keep them coming.
Chassis 130914 is way out of sync with the VIN 9140431232. The 914 and 1232 should be closer. Maybe due to the paint code (I have 16 Adriatic blue) being scarce and they had the chassis sitting around for a long time before final assembly.

On Olav's car, would it be possible that the car got a new nose? It may be a replacement panel for a 1975; IIRC they did not have the holes punched, and they had other changes for the bumper shocks. BTW Signal orange would be paint code 14, why 47?

Jim Chambers car was 8 past Olavs, but the chassis is only 3 past it. Nitpicking sure, but that is the difference between VIN and chassis #'s. The bodies were welded up and chassis # stamped, then painted. Then they were trimmed up and transported from Karmann to Porsche. At Porsche, the trimmed bodies would be put on the final assembly line when that color was needed. The drive train and suspension would be installed, then the VIN was assigned. Note that the front fender VIN is stamped into an unpainted area; probably left that way to avoid cracking the paint.

QUOTE (davep @ Oct 31 2005, 01:05 PM)

Chassis 130914 is way out of sync with the VIN 9140431232.

btw. 9140431232 had the original paint before it was dipped, unless someone went the extra mile to recreate the undercoating-like black paint around the front shock towers ...

more on the car here ...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act=...&f=2&t=3676&hl=

http://www.britainsmith.com/Porsche/Blue91...914-6/index.htm

Andy, do you have full size versions of those pics you can send me?

As for Olav's front panel being a 76, I checked the 75 in the shop and while the bump shapes are similar, the holes for the bumper shocks would have been obvious and clearly weren't welded shut. The only explaination I can think of along those lines is that it could be a factory replacement panel from 75/76 that came without all the holes punched and without all the nuts welded into place. And actually, the location where Olav has mounted his horn looks to be in the same location as the welded nut on the 75 car I looked at. Meaning the panel may have come without the nuts welded and the body shop just left them off or didn't know to weld them on.

75 Picture.

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Oct 31 2005, 02:53 PM)

QUOTE (davep @ Oct 31 2005, 01:05 PM) Chassis 130914 is way out of sync with the VIN 9140431232. btw. 9140431232 had the original paint before it was dipped, unless someone went the extra mile to recreate the undercoating-like black paint around the front shock towers ...

Andy,
How come that original six has 4 lug rear wheels on it??????

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Oct 31 2005, 02:20 PM)

How come that original six has 4 lug rear wheels on it??????

to make it a roller ... the original trailing arms and axles stuff was at the powder-coater and to be able to roll it around, we slapped two /4 trailing arms on it ...

this pic was taken shortly before the car was going to the acid-dipper and we needed to roll it around the shop area ...

Andy

Roller suspension. Just something to keep it rolling while the suspension was being powder coated.

VIN 9140431088
body 13 (1) 146 (I can't see all of the third character because of the overlying paint)
Paint code 11 Light Ivory,
Tan interior
Delivered March 1970

It has black shock towers, holes and small humps

Thanks Jack, 131146 would most likely be correct. The last four digits of the VIN and the chassis # should be close to one another.

I think Olav's front panel is a replacement. My trunk is like Olav's and it has definately been replaced. Big bumps, holes are not cut, and I have bolts to hold my horns in place. This is on VIN 4732924146. The front panel and right front fender appear to have been replaced together. When I had the car stripped my dad said the inner surfaces of the fender looked like the body panels they got at the Porsche dealers he worked for in the late 70's. Hopefully my picture will be attached.

Kelly

Well I'm convinced. The mystery is solved. Unfortunate outcome, I suppose. One of those things you probably wish you didn't know. But, replacement front panel or not, Olav's car is still amazing and one of my favorite 914s.

I don't see how it's unfortunate, unless you are really hung up on originality. I mean we are talking about 30 year old cars.

Kelly

I'll have to have a look at it closer because I certainly didn't notice any work on it. It looks like a good job if that's what happened though.

And no one else has noticed either.

Hmmmm...

Doesn't bother me either way though because it's still a great car.

VIN: 9140430693
Chassis: 130686
Paint code: 15 Irish Green

Still putting it back together

Olav,

It sounds pretty good actually. If the repair is so good as to be almost undetectable except for the different part, I'd be really happy. So, not perfect, such is life. You still have a great car.

QUOTE (davep @ Nov 2 2005, 09:38 AM)

Olav, It sounds pretty good actually. If the repair is so good as to be almost undetectable except for the different part, I'd be really happy. So, not perfect, such is life. You still have a great car.

It looks like they must have replace the whole front panel as described in the shop manuals because it's completely undetectable except for the differences in the part.

I'll have to have a closer look at the car next time I'm down at the place where I keep it.

I'll post some pictures.

There was one clue to me that something happened in 1976. Because when I took off the front bumperthere was a sticker stating that it was rechromed in 1976 by San Jose Chrome and there was some major repairs done to it at that time too.

I thought, why would they put this bumper on the car as I inspected my front panel for any signs of damage. Didn't see any at all anywhere. Just thought it was strange and wrote it off as a PO weirdness thing.

Anyway, I've got a new front bumper to replace the 30 year old redone bumper now so it's perfect.


I've had Brad Roberts looking at the car and other members too when I brought the car to Novado to put on new front torsion bars and adjustable sway bar.
We had a sort of tech session while everyone was chipping in putting in the stuff and taking out the gas tank etc. Even Andy was there.

No one notice anything unusual and everything was perfect for the smart racing adjustable sway bar to be installed.

So, it's a very good job indeed.

I think the new fron end is stronger anyway ...


As for not perfect, it's perfect to me!! I don't think it decreases any of the value besides it's a driver and fun car not a collecters car!

A renegade... ha..