The continuing saga of "The Brown Turd" six conversion resulted in an oil bath on Saturday.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Empi's best? split open like a ripe watermelon. Nicely oiled the tranny, right rear brake, tire & rim and me! Nothing like a warm motor oil shower. Was getting it ready for a test drive ..... it remains on the lift (where all teeners should be anyway).

Ah well ..... just more money down the shitter

Was it a new cooler?

take it back!

empi aint known for quality....

but you did the rigth thing... make sure it is neededbefore you go with the expensive setrab/fluidyne front setup....

You have a thermostat in the circuit? Shouldn't be an overwhelming amount of oil pressure once it's warm enough to open the thermostat. The Cap'n

One way to get Slits to take a bath...

(Hi Ron)

Brand spankin' new .... Hey, it lasted one day....guess I can't ask for more...it did bring the oil temps down to normal (while it lasted).

Thanks Aaron ......

Hey, it saw 8 Bar cold (120 psi) for sure. I asked the counterperson if it would stand 100+ psi before I bought it .... "Sure, we've never had any problems."

looks like the cooler heat expanded and the fan/frame didn't

We ran a RX7 cooler on the Datsun race car for 15 years with cold start up pressure of 180 psi and never buldged or blew the cooler AND no thermostat.

No thermostat in the circuit .... 8 bar (120 psi) startup pressure.

Oh and Eric, I'm all oiled up for the rubdown

IMO, it's important to use a thermostat. Prevents the engine from "overcooling", mostly on warmup. Carmakers share my opinion, mostly. The Cap'n

I do not doubt that a thermo is important and I'm investigating installing one (just more money for the thermo and hoses) .... hell, the engine has one, but my contention is that the unit should be able to withstand up to 200 psi without blowing out .... that's my opinion (and I'm not quite as krusty as you ).

I ran an Empi cooler w/ an electric fan for a couple of years in a inner fenderwell on a Corvair Spyder with out any trouble ....

Think mine was made in Canada .. maybe they move production down south ....

You mean ****gasp**** manufactured in the US?

TOUCHE"

Whats wrong with a RX-7 cooler? Pulled mine from a junkyard Mazda for $15 big ones.....works great(185). (actually pulled two...sold the other for $125). Plumbed it down the drivers side...no problems. No fan needed.

Slight hi-jack.

How do you connect the AN fittings to the RX-7 cooler? Do you have to weld them? That's a gen II RX-7 cooler correct?

Hi-jack over.

Thanks,

Kelly

Your best bet is to take a hole saw and cut the factory bungs out and weld in AN fittings. If you don't want to do that Racing Beat sells an adapter for about 25$ a piece. You will need two.

What size AN hose/fittings are you using? I have an extra -10AN sitting....

Their close by.......

301 E. ORANGETHORPE AVE., ANAHEIM, CA USA, 92801 • TOLL FREE LINES 800-666-3674 • FAX 800-666-4014

Email: empi.usa@empius.com

Send them a email with the pictures......let us know what they have to say.....

Well, first I'm gonna take it back to the parts house / shop I got it from and show them. I know the owner and he's a good person. I want him to tell me what Empi will do or not do.





Then I'll send 'em images and conditions of failure.

The RX7 we used was a single pass .... Gen 1? I think I took it out of an RX4 Rotary many moons ago. Bulletproof .....

I went to the fan/cooler combo as I mounted it on the rear trunk floor, pass side and used about 1" standoffs from the floor. I hate running hoses thru the body and rocker panels .... it's work.

Hi Bruce

For a four cylinder engine 10 is OK with a relatively stock pump setup. 12 may cause to much pressure drop. For a 6 you need to run close to 16.

Just oil pressure bent that thing? I'm guessing that somehow it got stressed before it was put into service. Even if you had 100psi and it was going to fail, I could see a split or some sort separation, but to bend it all the way across the cooler???

Is there a T-Stat in the circuit? (I'm with the Cap'n on that)

No T-stat in the scavenge line ..... didn't think it would be necessary.

If it was stressed prior to the installation, it happened in shipment or handling at the store. I was very careful (yes, I read the instructions) about distorting / twisting on installation.

And yes, it was strictly pressure from my standpoint. I remember bagging on JP (I think) who blew up a Fluidyne in much the same manner.

So, it really comes down to adding a T-Stat so the cooler doesn't see thick oil on startup or finding a cooler that is capable of handling the pressure (tube type vs plate sandwich type).

I suspect it may have been the 24lb. rubber mallet 'Mr. Careful' used to install it.

John

P.S. I can send Shaggy over to assist you Ron, his speciality is all things Oil, you know.

Obviously you are not a well man as yet. I think you should contact Spock for a realignment of the molecules in your grey matter. The molecules appear to be seriously jumbled. Over exposure to trilithium crystals huh?

Remember, I'm 61 ....24 lb no way - 12 lb for sure.

So, basically I was told to go fuck myself as I was trying to push cold oil thru the cooler and the filter was the restriction that caused the cooler to blow up. You should gut the filter so there is no pressure and place a remote filter on the suction line from the tank. I run 200 psi through one of these with no problems - yea right!

Oh well, I'm done with the six project ...... it can sit and rot in place.

that might make you feel better LOL

sorry to hear it ronslitster....

find out why the motor is running hot... ... fuel and timing are spot on.... its gotta be a blockage or restriction then....

or what else causes high oil temps?

A bad /6 engine...

Sorry Ron, had to say it

The only way to truly know is ... split the case and rebuild it. I look at every "good, used running engine" as a rebuild candidate.

Hmmmmmm, you must work for a Porsche Shop.

Hi oil temps....

1.) Insufficient cooling (head temps never over 325)

2.) Restriction in lines (all new)

3.) Shift in case (motor turns easily)

4.) Spun bearing (woulda blown up by now)

5.) Ton of shit on barrels (cleaned prior to installation)

Timing & Fuel are spot on

Next!

Low on coolant?

If an oil filter saw 200 PSI it would explode too... i've never seen one come off a healthy motor bulged...

BJH

Check the oil lines to make sure you don't have a restriction.

I had an oil pressure problem on a engine a customer and I put together (3.2 build up on a Euro Carrera 3.0). I built a stand that uses the factory oil tank, gauges, lines, blah, blah. So we start the engine and it would have some oil pressure and then it would go low right away. Fortunately I believed the gauge. The problem was one of the oil lines (braided stainless) had internally collapsed. I drained the oil, took off the lines and found one was restricted. You couldn't tell it by looking at the line. When I cut the line apart it looked like the aperature of a camera. BAT told me "I guess you've bought enough oil line to run into that, we see it very rarely, but it does happen". I wonder if they would have paid for an engine???

6.) Insufficient cooling for oil.

And the unkown...

7.) Blocked or clogged oil passages inside the case.