I am trying to disassemble the rear trailing arm and replace the wheel bearing. I have tried the set up in the pic and cannot get the castle nut to budge.

Tomorrow I'll buy a 30mm socket and then try my 1/2" drive breaker bar. Will likely add a cheater bar to get even more force on the nut. (hydraulic jack handles work great for cheater bars)

What have you used to remove the castle nut?

air ...

Big old cheater bar, half drive, 30mm socket...or a STOUT impact wrench. I leave the arm on the car till that sucker is loose..... as you have it, the impact wrench is the hot set-up...unless you like to wrestle alligators.

Best thing to use is an air driven impact wrench, something I don't have. Wound up taking the trailing arm AND my 30mm socket down to a nearby gas station / service center, and asked them to give it a try; they had it apart faster than I could get the other one out of the trunk, and didn't charge me a dime for the trouble.

I've wanted an impact wrench for quite a while.

I thought that it would be the best tool for the job.

I just might be the owner of a new impact wrench tomorrow

Did that 3 days ago! 30mm and air for me. If you havent done the replacement yet, deep freeze the bearings and hub. Goes on easier and faster when putting it all back together! I also used axle and castle nut to seat the hub completely on the bearing. Good times. Its not the cleanest job! Good luck!

Barry

Another trick.... HEAT the castle nut with a propane torch until it is glowing and then try the impact wrench.

I had a 400 ft/lb torque air impact wrench that wouldn't budge the nut... then I heated it and tried a few times and it spin off!

Breaker/cheater bar works just fine (even if you have the arms off the car), but if you need an excuse to buy new tools: YOU NEED AN IMPACT WRENCH

cheers,

Jeroen

do i smell a classic thread?????