Ok guys-i need help with installing the rear main seal. replaced once with stock ering with no special procedures and it leaked. replaced with stock victor reinz with a light coat of hondabond(let set up for 3 days) and it leaked.

what is the trick here?

1. The ering was a little bit thinner than the victor reinz-10mm vs. 11.5mm.
2. The original was an ering.
3. Is there a special method for using permetex or the hondabond type of sealent?

Any help would be appreciated, because i have been working on this pos for about 9 months and i am running out of stuff to replace. i am so close to having a daily runner, but i can't get this seal right.......HELP..........

Thanks,
craig

I've never used any sealant... are you sure it's the seal that's leaking.. how is the O ring in the flywheel?

I thought the same thing....i replaced the seal with the new flyweel and the new seal. when i put the next seal on i replaced the o ring all so.....

Dr evil mentioned the sealant....i have researched this and i have found posts on using sealant or just a little of oil around the outer sealing edge.

is there anything else it could be?

i am going to drop everything tomorrow and maybe the third time will be a charm. i am getting fast at my engine drops.

When installing those the seal and flywheel o-ring, I've never used anything but a liberal application of motor oil.

Before you install the next seal, run your finger around the mating surface. Make sure there are no burrs or gouges that could cause a leak. If there are... well... let's hope there's not.

That seal has a tight fit. Make sure you drive it in straight... not tilted at any time.

Good luck and please post what you find when you get inside again!

Cheers,
Rusty

Hey Man,
I might as well post what I PMed you on here. For the seals to remain leak free you need to make sure the mating surfaces are true and free of gouges and protrusions. You can file protrusions down if done so very carfully so as to not create a new depression. The sealants that I recommend are only if you have a problem getting it to seal and you have checked and cleaned the mating surfaces. Clean mating surfaces are of course important. The sealants that I have used and recommend are Threebond 1207 and Yamabond. Normally you do not need these.

Another way that I have heard of remedying a leak when it is determined that it is due to a gouge in the case surface is to use JB weld in a VERY small amount and then, after it is cured, to file it down to original size and smooth it.

If you could take pics that woudl help us to help you better as we may see something previously unnoticed by you.

HTH

evil to the rescue......nice and conscise........thanks.....

i will take some pics and post them....should get to it tomorrow......

thanks to all and i will keep you posted.....

When you install the seal it needs to go in straight with something that pushes the entire seal in at once, you can tweek it tapping it in here and there. I had heard that an axle stub is the same size as the seal to use to tap it in. Also check the flywheel surface where the seal rides for anynicks/burrs that you can dress. Oh and did you change the o-ring in the end of the flywheel?

krieger.....thanks for the heads up...i am going to tackle tomorrow, so i will post results....

The best way I've found to reproduce a good flywheel sealing surface is to install a "Quick Sleeve". They are available through NAPA stores in the 75mm diameter needed. I've also found that a liberal amount of 90 weight gear oil works better than plain motor oil. It lasts longer during the period between installation and operation.
Good luck...

Marty's got it right. Check the seal to FLYWHEEL connection. It may not be leaking between the case and the seal, it might be leaking between the seal and the flywheel.

For clarity.

The red arrow on the seal:

Click to view attachment

Touches the red arrow on the flywheel:

Click to view attachment

The flywheel o-ring goes where the teal color is.

I think I read that your flywheel is new. Even so, dress the hub lightly with some emory cloth or super fine grit paper. If the flywheel is used, look very closely for grooves or pitting from rust. Flywheels in this condition may never seal.

btw, I feel your pain. Last time I did this it took a couple of tries before it sealed properly. My issue revolved around seating the seal evenly.

keep at it and good luck

Since your there you might replace transmission seal too.