I posted this on Narp during the "Great Divide." I am now getting ready to start this project so I figured I'd post here, with the additional suggestions from the folks on Narp.

I picked up a 1911 motor from Grimstead a few weeks ago. I will be replacing my stock 1.7 with the 1911. I also have a set of 44 idfs for that motor too.

So while I am going to swap this motor, I figured I'd check to see what else I should do "while I am in there?" If anyone knows the ball park costs for some of these items, please list it too, as it will help me budget.

I don't want Dirk Wright disease, but I want to take care of any maintenance items while I have the old motor out and am prepping for the new one.

clutch
fuel lines
tranny mounts
engine mounts - ordered
new fuel pump - CB Rotary $60
various jets, and venturis for tuning the carbs - based upon recommendations (32 chokes)
carb gaskets - ordered
new copper head to he gaskets - ordered
new exhaust nuts & studs - ordered
cv gaskets
red loctite (something I need to get for all of this)
oil filter, oil screen and gaskets - ordered
Oil cooler seals - ordered
Push rod tube o-rings. - ordered
trans mainshaft seal and cup bushing in the TOB arm... new bolts for the flywheel if you have it off
A type 1 oil pump that has already had the shaft milled is a great investment if you want to upgrade your oil system & seals.
Check the CV joints and repack them.
Rebuilt alternator (I have a new starter)
Check that right rear suspension point where the trailing arm pivots. Thats below the battery tray and corrodes from the inside out. $??
Alternator belt. - ordered
do andy's jumper wire at the engine relay board to power the pump.

Help me out fellas!

Thanks,
Joe

50 ish bucks for weltmeister "solid" trans mounts. they are a poly/hockeypuck material.

This might be going a little overboard, but I have mine out right now, and I'm planning on installing a new alternator while it's out. For all I know, it's the original, it's gonna fail sometime, and I'd rather change it now while the engine is out and it's easily accessible.

- Bryan

You are correct ... that's overboard ... installing another will not guarantee longivity, especially if it is a "rebuilt" one.

Quite a list of parts.

Do you have manifolds & linkage for the Carbs?
Have you looked in the carbs to see what jets and venturi
sizes you already have?

Maybe you've looked already and know you need them but if not,
I wouldn't necessarily replace all the seals/gaskets you have listed
unless there were signs of leaking.

As long as you are getting a fuel pump from CB performance ($54),
I'd go ahead and get the jets, and chokes/venturi from them as well.
They seem to have the best pricing when I've looked.
32mm chokes. ~$9/each
Idle/Main jets ~$4/each.
Also, from CB if you don't have it, get their "Weber Technical Manual".
Best $10 you'll ever spend.

You should be able to find prices pretty easily from the sources listed
below.

A few items I've priced recently
Motor mounts are around $15-$20 each
OEM transmission mounts are around $90 each.
(there are some other non stock alternatives)
Oil cooler seals ~$1-2
CV gaskets ~$2-3
copper exhaust nuts ~$1 each
Alternator belt ~$10

Here are some places I've used that you can look for parts/prices:

cperformance.com (Carb parts)
Seem to have best prices on Weber parts and accessories.
www.aircooled.net (Carb parts)
These guys are a bit higher than CB but have returns on venturis.
They also have some great technical papers on their site.
pelicanparts.com (everything)
www.autoatlanta.com (everything)
allzim.com (everything)
Call 800#, webpages aren't very good or complete
www.gprparts.com/ (everything)
Webpages are good but they have even more stuff if you call 800#

-----------------------------
Defintely use the existing wiring for the power on the fuel pump rather
than tapping off the coil.
If you jumper pin III of the four pin connector on the relay board
to gound, the original fump wires will be energized while the ignition is on.

--- bill

cb is a good place to shop... but far from cheap on jetting....

alphaguy or alfaguy on ebay sells em direct from italy way cheap....

at a minimum you will need 32 vents (your may have had em on andys 2056...) probably 50 idles....

take a guess at mains and airs....

Joe if ya need any help removing and reinstalling, call me up !

while it's out...ball stud cup and clip for the throwout arm, the throwout bearing clips (2). change gear lube.

k

I've had a spare alternator sitting here for years. Mine has been through a solvent tank, a fire, a big red dishwasher type engine cleaner, a hose washing the fire extinguisher crap out of it, lots of rain (no engine lid), spiders setting up shop in it, and it's growled since I got the car, but it still hasn't quit working.

Updated with stuff ordered for the install.

Be careful with red loctite. It's the more permanent type. Blue or purple is the lesser strength color.

Clutch cable?
Accel cable?
speedo cable?
If you do one you might as well do all
cv washers?
shifter bushings?
Make sure you have someplace to connect your breather hoses
distributor for the carbs?


patrick

Speedo, clutch and shift bushings all newish. thanks for the reminder of the breather.

You don't need to do it before the install but if you add a CHT gauge (and you should), doing the wiring at the same time you put the tin back on will make your life easier down the road...

Also, check the clutch, I'm 85% sure it's in really good shape but it's better to check now.

AlsoX2, While the oil is still fresh, I didn't change it after I pressure washed the engine.