Got clutch cable wrapped around throttle cable BTDT

wow you guys are good! Exactly and easy to do.

My 1.8 fuel pump runs everytime I turn the key to "on" and I do not remember hearing this before. It also seems now to run a little rough at idle when it gets hot. What do you think has happened?

stuck air flow meter?

absolutely. The car must have lean backfired on me! the sticking flap enrichens the mixture which causes the rough idle and the points are not opening to turn off the power to the fuel pump.

I was driving along and came to a stop and then started off again. Suddenly I heard a clunk and I lost all power and just coasted to a stop. The engine sounds fine but the shifter feels funny and the car will go absolutely no where! What the heck has happened now??

Broken CV joint.

Or the set screw came out of the shift rod

broken fingers on pressure plate

close

Nope!

Nope

CV Bolts backed out

You spin your 914. It starts and runs after the spin, but runs very poorly, with lots of black sooty exhaust. What happened?

as the car spun it rolled backwards, thus putting postive pressure on the MPS diaphram and broke it (rather than vacuum).

Remember, both feet in! for a spin

YES! the cv came loose and hit the shift rod bending it. Now it is not connected so the 914 will go nowhere fast!

hey i love 914's too
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

My Dad flew in to see me and I proudly took him for a drive in my gleaming, freshly restored 914-6. Downtown Atlanta, we stopped at the gas station, pumped the gas and then started off again. As I shifted into second, I suddenly lost all shifting capability! The clutch would work fine, the engine would run fine, (but now the car was stuck in 2nd gear) yet the shifter felt totally free and loose.
As I listened to my dad frustratingly calling my 914 "clapped out" I looked under the car, my Dad working the shifter, and saw all of the linkage moving freely, even into the transaxle! Shrugging my shoulders and still wincing at the "clapped out" remark, I called the tow company to take the car home, my bubble burst!

What could be the problem??

Check the rear spiral shaft (at the rear of the lnkage), then try shiftng the trans by hand at the input shaft at the trans. If the input shaft moves freely, it could be that the cotter pin broke/fell out allowing the nner shift lever to become detached.

Unfortunately, I have not dealt with many tail sfifter cars.

You got it john! The rear shift lever that goes into the tail cover has a triple rolled pin that eventually breaks causing the car to be dead in the water. The replacement pin must be the factory variety or it will soon break again. Replacement procedure consists of draining the transmission fluid, moving the lever to one side and knocking the pin out with a long drift.

I am so happy! I found a great set of Pedrini factory alloy wheels that looked great and were perfectly straight. I was so excited when I jacked my 914 up and bolted them on the rear and then jacked up the front.... but alas they don't fit!!!! The centering circle in the middle of the rotor is interfering! I know that I have seen these same wheels on other later 914s (mine is a 1974) so why do these not fit???

Must be the early wheels,they will not fit because they are not machined for the later hub.

true, but I have for sure seen them on the later cars so why won't they fit

Like he said, they are lug centric, One could swtch the front rotors/hubs to earlier front rotors/hubs or machine the wheels to accept the hub centric ring.

You have two hub centric and two lug centric wheels.

one could, yes but there is a bolt on solution

dont know the bolt on solution, but here is a picture of the slight difference between the early ® and late 73 up (L)
Click to view attachment

Close enough. There were differences (one of which you have pointed out) between the 70-72 pedrini alloys and the 73 pedrini alloys. One of them and the significant one is that the 73 with the part number suffix of 01 was machined to fit the 73-76 centering hub. If one had purchased this set they would have fit the 74 model perfectly!

My six cylinder 914-6 has a plastic steering wheel and I would like to install a leather one, and I can not find one anywhere, and the Porsche factory says over 1000 for a new one. I bought a perfect leather one for a four cylinder 914 on e bay but it won't fit. Is there anything I can do?

Grind off the rivets on both wheels and bolt the -4 on the -6 hub.

Heh. I'm waiting for the: "My brake light keeps blinking--I know the brakes are OK because I just bled them!" question.

And the "Huge oil leak off the left side of the engine, only when it's running" question.



--DD

Bada Bump!

For the pedrini's they are hubcentric depending on year. Can you use a hubcentric adapter??

Can't you trim it down a bit and have the 4-cyl fit? Isn't it just the hub skirt and the turn signal cancelling ring that are different?

I'm probably way way wrong. (never owned an original 914-6)

close but no

nope too much work

Can't I just push a button and install a small shouldered bolt to solve all of the above?

Of course you can! But those seem to be two of the more popular simple errors...

--DD

This is a slight hijack...hopefully George could elaborate on the information below.

This is in reference to Appendix T in Tech Tips:

My 1.7L was acting as if it was flooding out, or it would idle but wouldn’t accelerate. I suspected the CHT. I’ve read the simple test you suggested in the Tech Tip book but don’t fully understand.

You said to disconnect the CHT and run a lead from it’s connection to the wiring harness to the negative terminal of the battery. Then disconnect the fuel pump circuit and run the engine out of fuel to “clean it out”. Before making the test or head temperature sensor substitution will have no effect.

Is this just part of the procedure to replacing the CHT…or should I learn that the sensor is no good in this process?

Ray that will show you if the sensor is bad but it is not required to remove the relay when replacing the sensor. Make sure that you tap the top of the sensor before unscrewing to make sure that the threads unseize first or the sensor may break. THAT would not "be pretty"

If that is too much work, can you simply use a spacer for the 4-cyl steering wheel? I just don't know the thickness required. You would have to measure.

If you talk to Bob at Fuel Injection Corporation, he will tell you to put a paper clip between the wire harness connection and the CHT ... according to him, the clip will act as a resistor. I've never tried it ....

I have a good one when someone gets close enough to the steering wheel post

Wrap it.
If AA has the item http://www.automobileatalanta.com/
or
http://www.automotion.com/ProductPage.aspx?pid=110424

I had the very sam problem to the point I was going to install a Carburetors, I just could not rely on the car to go anwhere. I drive it down the block and it would die and I would have to push it home "Twice" you know I heard from my wife "all that money and your pushing it!". anyway I took it to a local air cooled VW mechanic for carburation; I was sick over carburation, but come to find out it was a loose yellow wire that the previous owner monkied with at the relay panel.

the answer is to simply remove the plastic steering wheel hub on the 914-4 wheel and voila! A 914-6 steering wheel (or an rsr wheel!!!)

CHT!!!

Jeff