I saw a thread which I can't kind now. Can anybody tell the best place to hook up the + wire on my fuel pump the PO has it coming off the coil and I've heard thats not right. Is there a spot where most people tie into ?


Thanks,
jbart

The stock fuel pump wiring works if you ground out a connection on the relay board. That's what I use. Two spade connectors work great into the stock plug.

See this thread:
Carb Fuel Pump HowTo

--- bill

Thanks guys,

I'm a newbie so i'm not sure which of the open spades went to the stock fuel pump do to the car was bought with carbs but I have been in the relay board
check voltage at the alt. connection . I'm headed for that link hopefully I can
figure it out from there.


Thanks,
jbart

Thanks bill,

I have one more question for you on that link the first pic. shows a flat connection just below the alt. plug would that be for the fuel inj. wiring if so is the wire coming from that plug and do you know what color wire it might be ? I noticed that I am missing a relay would this be the relay for FI?


Pic. below

jbart

The missing relay in your picture was for the optional rear window
defogger.

None of the other 3 spades in that 4 pin connector were connected to the fuel pump.
The pump had seperate wires running to it.

That 4 pin connector connected to the FI brain module.
1 pin is +12v when ignition is on.
2 pins are +12v when the starter is cranking.
1 pin is grounded by the FI computer to turn the fuel pump
on.

The computer monitored the distributer points and if "saw" the engine
wasn't spinning it would disable the ground to turn off the fuel pump.
This is a fail safe to turn off the pump when the engine dies or
stalls in an accident.
Without the FI computer, the fail safe circuitry is lost. However, you
can still use the fuel pump relay without the fail safe by simply grounding
the right pin.
That is why without the FI computer you must ground that pin to enable
the fuel pump relay.

As far as how to find the original fuel pump wires.
If you are lucky, the PO didn't cut them are they are still there.
The original wires run over to the passengar side engine shelf.
They are initially bundled with the red wires that run to the battery.
They spit off and drop through a round hole where the engine shelf drops
down in the "hell hole", next to where the mounts for the original
fuel pump are located (the mounts are on the bottom side of the engine shelf).
There will be round connector with 2 slots in it. This is the connector
for the original fuel pump.
You may be able to see this connector dangling if you crawl under
the car and look up just a bit forward of where the battery is.

The actual wires running to the original connector are a brown (GND)
and Black with red stripe (+12 switched via fuel pump relay).
But as McMark said you can stick spades into the factory plug
and avoid having to do any cutting/splicing.

If the original wires have been removed, you can pick up the fuel pump
signal from two places on the relay board.
The black/red wire connects to the upper left
(closest to the drivers front wheel) pin on the flat 14 pin connector
up by te fire wall.

The signal also goes to the flat 12 pin connector. The signal goes
to the lower right pin. (closest to the passenger rear wheel).


Two of the most useful books for working on 914s that I have used are the
Haynes 914 manual (you can get this new from Amazon for ~$15)
And for Weber carbs: Weber Technical Manual published by CB performance for only $10.

Both are definitely worth every penny.

--- bill